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Consumers say sustainable delays are OK

WWD
April 2022
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Consumers say sustainable delays are OK

WWD
|
April 2022

What: 86% of respondents said a delayed delivery was acceptable if it meant it was a more sustainable delivery.

Why is it important: A study shows 29% are willing to delay deliveries up to five days and 28% are willing to delay a week or more.


The pandemic has impacted the sustainable habits of shoppers with 44% of those polled saying their interest in shopping sustainably has increased since the start of the COVID-19 outbreak. 81% of those polled are recycling boxes and bags from shopping online and in a store half the time while 53% recycle between 75 and 100% of the time. 64% of respondents “are willing to spend more on sustainable packaging, with 44 percent willing to spend up to 5 percent more.”

Businesses can do more to implement practices that reduce waste and help the environment, companies are in a unique position “to start making smarter decisions that consider not only profit but the environment and humankind.”


Consumers say sustainable delays are OK

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Half of Belgian department store's Inno staff on temporary leave

Fashion Network
April 2022
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Half of Belgian department store's Inno staff on temporary leave

Fashion Network
|
April 2022

What: Facing slow traffic and sales, Inno has decided to benefit from the government measures put in place to deal with the health crisis. However, the entire network, owned by the German group Galeria Karstadt Kaufhof, keeps all its points of sale open.

Why it is important: Inno has not experienced a post-Covid recovery and is now facing another crisis with the war in Ukraine having an impact on inflation, oil prices and energy. As a result, Belgian consumers are rather cautious.


Half of the sales staff and a quarter of executives (altogether roughly 700 people) are affected by temporary leave until the end of June, except for the week of May 2, during which the 125th anniversary of the department store will be celebrated. Unemployed employees will be paid 70% of their salary.


Half of Belgian department store's Inno staff on temporary leave (French)

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M&S to open a Goodmove pop-up space

Fashion Network
April 2022
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M&S to open a Goodmove pop-up space

Fashion Network
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April 2022

What: The success of its Goodmove brand has prompted M&S to open a pop-up space for the activewear range in London’s Covent Garden.

Why is it important: M&S described the opening as a “significant standalone moment” for the brand, which launched online and in-store in January 2020, becoming the retailer’s best-selling own brand, with 1.6 million items sold annually.


The pop-up at Covent Garden will operate until 23 April, showcasing Goodmove’s spring/summer 2022 collection across womenswear, menswear, and childrenswear as well as host a variety of free classes and talks.


M&S to open a Goodmove pop-up space 

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Dior to open a pop-up complex in Seoul

WWD
April 2022
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Dior to open a pop-up complex in Seoul

WWD
|
April 2022

What: After the Paris flagship store received a modern makeover, the French fashion house is opening a sprawling pop-up store in Seoul housed in a metallic mesh structure recalling the facade of its historic headquarters in Paris.

Why it is important: The 7,500-square-foot complex, seen as the next generation of pop-up stores, is located in the former industrial zone of Seongsu-dong, which has become a popular area filled with craft coffee and organic restaurants.


The temporary structure is due to remain in place for several years, evolving with the seasons and collections. When it opens on May 1, the store will offer the pre-fall collection designed by Maria Grazia Chiuri, artistic director of womenswear, one day after its runway debut at the city’s Ewha Womans University.

The store’s decor will feature original furniture pieces by South Korean designers The house’s signature toile de Jouy motif is printed on traditional Hanji paper, made by mixing mulberry fiber and natural wood pulp.

For the Café Dior backdrop, Dior collaborated with Korean digital design company D’strict on images inspired by the lush gardens of founder Christian Dior’s childhood home in the French seaside town of Granville.


Dior to open a pop-up complex in Seoul

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Neiman Marcus partners with NFT Project 'Boss Beauties'

Press Release
March 2022
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Neiman Marcus partners with NFT Project 'Boss Beauties'

Press Release
|
March 2022

What: Neiman Marcus partnered with women-founded NFT project 'Boss Beauties' to unveil Neiman's co-founder NFT among the new "role models" collection on International Women's Day.

Why is it important: In honor of Women's History Month, Neiman Marcus, a woman co-founded luxury retailer, announced new activations and initiatives to support the next generation of women leaders through partnerships with both Runway of Dreams and Boss Beauties.

The new "Role Models" NFT collection, is designed to share the story of women who have shattered the glass ceiling throughout history and inspire the next generation of women and girls. The assortment featuring 25 one-of-a-kinds NFT's will be launched March 9-12 on OpenSea and includes an NFT of Neiman Marcus co-founder Carrie Marcus Neiman alongside other female leaders such as Ruth Bader Ginsburg, Katherine Johnson, and Frida Kahlo.


Neiman Marcus partners with NFT Project 'Boss Beauties'

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John Lewis introduces a new pledge to customers

Press Release
March 2022
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John Lewis introduces a new pledge to customers

Press Release
|
March 2022

What: John Lewis updates its customer promise out of concerns for its brand perception in a moment when cost of living becomes an issue for UK customers.

Why it is important: John Lewis’ promise has been enforced for almost a century. Analysts are concerns it might impact the corporate culture and staff might feel that they are becoming like ‘any other shop’.

John Lewis will retire its “Never knowingly undersold” promise this summer and will invest £500m into a new customer pledge aiming at offering “quality at great value prices”, out of concerns for the increasing cost of living in the UK.

For the retailer, the previous pledge is not reassuring customers enough and does not guarantee trust. It is also presented as a proactive move and not a reaction to other retailers’ prices cuts. The pledge had been introduced in 1925.

The £500m investment represents an increase of +25% compared to the amount John Lewis spends on keeping prices affordable. It aims to guarantee great quality at great prices both online and offline.

The new customer pledge also hopes to capitalize on the “Anyday” range, the most affordable private label range of products available at John Lewis, which is also here to reassure customers. Prices are even advertised in TV spots.


John Lewis introduces a new pledge to customers 

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The Bay removes products made in Russia and Belarus

WWD
March 2022
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The Bay removes products made in Russia and Belarus

WWD
|
March 2022

What: The Bay has dropped products made in Russia and Belarus from its stores and its marketplace website, 200 items in all, in response to the Russian invasion of Ukraine.

Why is it important: In response to the crisis in Ukraine, The Bay dropped Russian products, and The Hudson’s Bay Foundation, donated $100,000 to the Canadian Red Cross’ Ukraine Humanitarian Crisis Appeal. The foundation is also encouraging Canadians to donate their Hudson’s Bay Rewards points, which will be converted into cash and donated to the Canadian Red Cross to provide aid to impacted Ukrainian communities.

The Foundation will match these donations, up to an additional $100,000. The points donations will be accepted through March 31, 2022.


The Bay removes products made in Russia and Belarus

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Nike beats quarterly revenue estimates boosted by North America demand

Business of Fashion
March 2022
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Nike beats quarterly revenue estimates boosted by North America demand

Business of Fashion
|
March 2022

What: Nike Inc. beat quarterly revenue estimates on Monday, helped by robust holiday demand for its sports shoes and apparel in North America.

Why it is important: Despite doubts from investors about the retailer’s performance due to continued store shutdowns due to Covid in China, major factory shutdowns in Vietnam, and the pull out of business in Russia, Nike was able to boost sales in North America.

Nike’s shares rose 4.4 percent to $136 in extended trading.

Sports and casual apparel have become a more intrinsic part of everyday fashion since the onset of the pandemic, as people ditch office attire for sweatpants and joggers, boosting sales at Nike and rivals such as Under Armour and Adidas.

Nike’s sales in North America, its largest market, jumped 9 percent in the company’s third quarter, also boosted by the return of school sports and price increases.


Nike beats quarterly revenue estimates boosted by North America demand

Supply Chain Woes Accelerate Change at Nike 

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Neiman Marcus replaces fur with apple leather

Vogue Business
March 2022
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Neiman Marcus replaces fur with apple leather

Vogue Business
|
March 2022

What: Neiman Marcus pledged to phase out animal fur last June and will stop selling it entirely in March 2023,  replacing it with alternatives such as apple leather.

Why is it important: NGM’s CEO stated that the group has already halved its fur inventory and they are keen to prove to those customers that they are “replacing something, not taking something away”.

Alongside its fur ban, the group has committed to increasing its revenue from sustainable and ethical products by 2025. NMG says it extended the life of 350,000 items in 2021 through circular fashion services including alterations, restoration and resale. Part of this positive framing is the transformation of NMG’s 22 in-store fur salons into alterations bars and circular fashion hubs, where customers can access customisation, refurbishment and even resale, a process that is already underway. The group will continue to offer fur storage, restoration and cleaning services – to keep existing garments in circulation for as long as possible and avoid them going to landfills.

Macy’s and Bloomingdale’s have been fur-free since the end of 2020, while Saks Fifth Avenue will stop selling fur by the end of 2022. However, finding plant-based materials that match the quality and feel of fur is posing a significant challenge, as is bringing along on the journey brands and consumers, particularly the most loyal, high-spending clients.


Neiman Marcus replaces fur with apple leather 

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Nordstrom celebrates the smiley face’s 50th birthday

Forbes
March 2022
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Nordstrom celebrates the smiley face’s 50th birthday

Forbes
|
March 2022

What: Smiley collaborates with Nordstrom and luxury designers to celebrate 50 years of the smiley face.

Why is it important: The Smiley Company created a limited-edition collection of 50th-anniversary products, for sale in stores around the world, including 10 Nordstrom JWN department stores and Galeries Lafayette department stores in Paris, Beijing, and Shanghai.

The pop-in shops will sell apparel, beauty, home decor, and lifestyle products from 30 different brands.


Nordstrom celebrates the smiley face’s 50th birthday

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Target-owned delivery company expands nationwide

Retail Dive
March 2022
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Target-owned delivery company expands nationwide

Retail Dive
|
March 2022

What: Shipt, the delivery company owned by Target, has partnered with Walgreens (health and wellness retailer) and 7-Eleven (convenience chains) to increase the number of retail locations where its service is available by more than 40%.

Why it is important: Walgreens and 7-Eleven further build out Shipt's range of retailers for customers to choose from. The expansion also proves that Target’s investment in delivery services was wise as the market continues to expand.

Shipt currently works with more than 140 retailers and has tripled its network of shoppers since 2020. Shipt is working towards getting on the same playing field as rivals such as Instacart, DoorDash, and Postmates.


Target-owned delivery company expands nationwide

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Macy’s shifts focus to investments after paying down Covid debt

Wall Street Journal
March 2022
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Macy’s shifts focus to investments after paying down Covid debt

Wall Street Journal
|
March 2022

What: Macy’s, which came almost short of cash before the pandemic, had to raise USD $4.5 bn in 2020 to survive.

Why it is important: The excellent sales results allow the company to start recuperating and refinancing the debt, freeing up capabilities to invest in future capabilities.

Macy’s is revising its debt structure and paying back some debts on the back of strong earnings. In order to weather the Covid-19 back in 2020, the company raised USD $4.5 bn, of which USD $852 mn are expected to be refinanced next week and another USD $280 mn in debt maturing in 2032 the latest, meaning that the company will not have any significant maturity after this year.

The financial policy of the company is of course to get rid of the debt generated during the Covid-19 pandemic, and shift capital into investments able to support future growth.


Macy’s shifts focus to investments after paying down Covid debt 

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Printemps rebrands

WWD
March 2022
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Printemps rebrands

WWD
|
March 2022

What: Printemps unveiled a new logo and brand identity as it prepares to launch its biggest marketing push in seven years so it will once again be part of the conversation.

Why is it important: “Tout commence au Printemps,” which translates as “Everything starts at Printemps” but is also a play on the name of the store, which means “spring” in French, will be launched as a nationwide advertising campaign for their new look and brand identity.

A two-day Festival de Printemps, featuring music performances, food stands, street art, and cheerleaders, will take place March 19th and 20th, coinciding with the arrival of spring in the Northern Hemisphere. A luminous floral design will be displayed on its facade, as well as immersive window displays, including two interactive windows equipped with digital sensors. Meanwhile, the retailer is unveiling eight new concepts, from beauty to vintage watches, at its Boulevard Haussmann flagship in Paris.

The redesigned printemps.com site, featuring the brand’s new green, white and gold colour scheme, and stylised letter “P,” will feature new functionalities including a simplified checkout system, the launch of a second-hand offer, and a section curated by 40 personal shoppers. It will also host a virtual boutique, where buyers will automatically enter a draw to win 30 NFTs designed with French artist Romain Froquet.

The restaurant offer has been reimagined. Elsewhere in the department store, the historic Maria Luisa concession has been rebranded as L’Endroit featuring 35 brands, including eight new labels for spring. There is a new 2,150-square-foot section dedicated to items from previous seasons, segmented by colour. New partnerships include a tie-up with Watchfinder & Co. on a selection of pre-owned timepieces, and a collaboration with Los Angeles-based digital fashion start-up DressX on a pop-up that will feature five products designed exclusively for Printemps.

The last time Printemps disclosed annual sales was for the fiscal year ending in March 2019, where revenues totaled EUR 1.7 bn euros. It will take another two or three years before Printemps returns to that level, noting that footfall is down 30% since 2018.

E-commerce sales in the last 12 months were up 31% versus fiscal 2020, while omnichannel revenues rose 52%. The group has seen a 10% acceleration of sales to local customers since 2020, and a return of foreign visitors. Between October and December, sales to U.S. customers rose 53% versus in 2019, while those from Europe and the Middle East registered a 23% bump.


Printemps rebrands 

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Buzzfeed is moving into physical retail

GDR
March 2022
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Buzzfeed is moving into physical retail

GDR
|
March 2022

What: Buzzfeed, the US-based website, is venturing into physical retail through new stores in US airports.

Why it is important: Every brand is now going into retail to monetize its customer’s awareness. This can be seen both as a threat by traditional retailers, or an opportunity as this could be bringing a new proposal and generate interesting partnerships.

Buzzfeed, the digital media company known for personality quizzes or Tasty videos, has teamed up with Stellar Partners, a travel retail operator, in order to launch Buzzfeed News-branded convenience stores in airports across the US.

The stores will support local businesses and stock up magazines, travel supplies, snacks, beauty products, lifestyle items, and will also allow to stay connected with the world by checking the latest news and entertainment on Buzzfeed monitors throughout the store.

The goal is to “utilise the data-driven research and insights to give consumers a curated travel experience”.


Buzzfeed is moving into physical retail 

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Macy’s announces commitment to spend USD 5 billion on social responsibility efforts

Retail Dive
March 2022
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Macy’s announces commitment to spend USD 5 billion on social responsibility efforts

Retail Dive
|
March 2022

What: Macy’s has committed to spend USD 5 billion by 2025 on efforts to ‘create a more equitable and sustainable future’.

Why it is important: The social purpose initiative plan ‘Mission Every One’ was created to drive social change in three main pillars for the upcoming years: communities, people, and the planet.

Macy’s has outlined their investment plan for each pillar:

•    People: will be investing in underrepresented designers, brands and partners across its namesake and Bloomingdale's brands. They will also invest in education benefits for their employees and boost minimum hourly pay to $15 per hour by May 1 of this year.

•    Communities: Macy’s has announced that they will be investing another USD 2 million to support scholarships for underrepresented youth in fashion, design and sustainability programs. Additionally, they will be donating more than USD 100 million to nonprofit organizations.

•    Planet: This pillar is focused on incorporating more sustainably sourced raw materials and fibers into its private brands, and investing in means of reducing, reusing and repurposing materials to eliminate waste.

Macy's stated that its movements towards a more inclusive future is "enterprise-wide" and that the company wants to leverage its position in the industry to make larger changes in the world.


Macy’s announces commitment to spend USD 5 billion on social responsibility efforts 

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Nordstrom expands its retail media network

Press Release
March 2022
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Nordstrom expands its retail media network

Press Release
|
March 2022

What: Nordstrom is expanding its advertising opportunities for brand partners through the Nordstrom Media Network, further building on the strengths of the digital-first platform.

Why it is important: Nordstrom Media Network is its advertising program that allows brand partners to connect directly with 32 million Nordstrom customers to drive traffic, sales, and customer engagement. The program enables brands to share their brand story and advertise on Nordstrom’s digital platforms.

On-site channels include sponsored product ads and brand pages. Off-site channels include paid social and display ads, YouTube videos, search and shopping ads, and affiliate campaigns.

Looking ahead, the retailer plans to expand ad placements on Nordstrom.com and NordstromRack.com and to improve reporting and targeting capabilities.


Nordstrom expands its retail media network

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Brands using NFTs to keep customers hooked

Business of Fashion
March 2022
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Brands using NFTs to keep customers hooked

Business of Fashion
|
March 2022

What: Brands like Adidas, Gucci, and The Hundreds are finding that NFT tokens are a great way to reward their superfans.

Why is it important: NFTs offer brands a way to extend holders’ unique privileges, creating a means to foster and reward customer loyalty. Since NFTs still function as high-priced speculative assets, the customer relationship can take work to manage but, the efforts show they could have a place in fashion beyond being just collectibles.

Because NFTs can act as unique identifiers for their owners, similar to an email address but with added features because of the programmable smart contracts underlying them, brands can use them to extend privileges and perks, including freebies and exclusive access to new products.

The Hundreds’ NFT program has been successful because it has created a genuine sense of shared ownership with ABS members. Earlier this year, the brand started issuing members royalties on sales when they used their bombs in products. For now, that means store credit to spend with the brand to avoid running afoul of security regulations.


Brands using NFTs to keep customers hooked

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Nike plans for stand-alone Jordan stores

Retail Dive
March 2022
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Nike plans for stand-alone Jordan stores

Retail Dive
|
March 2022

What: As Nike accelerated its DTC growth, the brand has moved away from select wholesale partners and moved into the second phase of its marketplace strategy.

Why is it important: In pursuit of a direct-to-consumer strategy, Nike will begin testing Jordan-branded stores in North America in fiscal 2023.

Nike revenue grew 5% to $10.9 billion in the third quarter, on the back of 17% growth in Nike Direct and 22% growth in digital. Nike Direct made up 42% of the retailer's sales in the quarter, reaching $4.6 billion, according to a company press release.

Nike continues to push its DTC strategy, but also seeks to emphasize that wholesale is still a significant part of the company's business.


Nike plans for stand-alone Jordan stores

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Swire to open new Taikoo Li shopping mall

Business of Fashion
March 2022
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Swire to open new Taikoo Li shopping mall

Business of Fashion
|
March 2022

What: The real estate developer has announced its intention to open the fourth iteration of its fashion and lifestyle concept, Taikoo Li, in China’s ancient capital of Xi’an. It will be the group’s seventh retail property in mainland China.

Why it is important: Taikoo Li has already found success in Beijing and Chengdu, with a growing retail revenue of 27% and 21.9% respectively last quarter. The new retail-led project will have a low density, open plan design, but will also include cultural facilities, a luxury hotel and serviced apartments. It is expected to be completed by the end of 2025 with a total gross leasable area of 269,000-square-metres.

Swire Properties will take a 70% stake in the joint venture with a 30% stake taken by local company, Xi’an City Huanwen. The total investment in the project is expected to reach about 10 billion yuan ($1.58 billion).


Swire to open new Taikoo Li shopping mall 

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Fenwick announces a £40 m investment in its Newcastle flagship

¨The Retail Bulletin
March 2022
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Fenwick announces a £40 m investment in its Newcastle flagship

¨The Retail Bulletin
|
March 2022

What: While there are rumors that the Bond Street store might be for sale, Fenwick has announced a major overhaul of the Newcastle flagship.

Why it is important: Even though digital can not be missed, all retailers keep on investing in their physical stores, as also exemplified by Breuninger which, although it is moving fast in e-commerce, keeps on investing resources, time and money into the revamping and expansion of its physical stores.

Fenwick will begin a complete renovation of the Newcastle flagship which will take place over the next 5 years, with a total investment of £40 m, and starting by the beauty hall and the accessories department.

This renovation coincides with the initiatives launched to mark the 140th anniversary of the company, which translated into collaborations with brands such as Edeline Lee, Rixo, Paul Smith and Fred Perry.


Fenwick announces a £40 m investment in its Newcastle flagship 

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Selfridges uses new DHL fast return service

Fashion Network
March 2022
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Selfridges uses new DHL fast return service

Fashion Network
|
March 2022

What: Selfridges will now have access to DHL’s ‘Just Right Returns’ service.

Why is it important: Ahead of the supply chain meeting, this news about optimizing retail is noteworthy.

Returns are trackable to consumers through the DHL Parcel app and, through the new partnership with ZigZag to create a fast easy quality return solution, retailers will also be able to track returns via ZigZag, providing visibility throughout the process.


Selfridges uses new DHL fast return service

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Macy’s off-mall strategy

WWD
March 2022
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Macy’s off-mall strategy

WWD
|
March 2022

What: Macy's has been repositioning its store fleet and seeking to open more off-mall locations. They will contribute “a material level of volume over time.”

Why it is important: Market by Macy’s, whose sales are reportedly beyond expectations, and Bloomie’s small store format are critical to the growth of the store's channel and critical to the growth of the omnichannel business.

The number of new customers shopping at these stores is materially higher than mall-based stores. The off-mall strategy focuses on doing business at a very local level, has customer experience scores meaningfully higher than Macy’s mall-based stores, and features easier navigation, quick and easy checkouts, and colleagues available to help customers.

Additional Bloomie’s stores are in the works: they will offer contemporary and luxury brands, services, tech-enabled stylists, new store design concepts and a restaurant. Market by Macy’s, with three units in Texas and two in Atlanta, will expand to additional markets. The specialty format has branded and private-label fashion, products from local designers and direct-to-consumer brands, food, an apothecary, plants, home items and a café.

One hundred sixty Macy department stores have “curated” assortments focused on customers under 40 and a diverse audience, and weighted toward certain brands such as Michael Kors, Steve Madden, Cotton On and private brands such as And Now This. Adjacencies have changed for better flow and navigation, and there’s cross-merchandising of brands.

Some Macy’s store closures have delayed in order to maintain a physical presence in many markets while the off-mall format stores are scaled up. They also serve as fulfilment hubs supporting the digital operations. Keeping these cash-positive stores open also helps to fund the investments to reposition the fleet over the next several years.

On the digital side, Macy’s and Bloomingdales’s are developing marketplaces this year, to offer consumers more products, more brands, more categories and greater depth in categories already carried. Digital sales are seen growing to the mid 40% range as a percent of total sales of Macy’s total volume, from around 35% last year, and 25% the year before.


Macy’s off-mall strategy 

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Iguatemi acquires stake in resale platform

Business of Fashion
March 2022
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Iguatemi acquires stake in resale platform

Business of Fashion
|
March 2022

What: The Brazilian mall conglomerate acquired 23.08% of in Etiqueta Unica, Brazil's largest e-commerce platform for second-hand luxury goods.

Why it is important: This move not only represents a key avenue of growth for Iguatemi but also a way to appeal to a conscious consumer who is growing increasingly concerned about sustainability.

The transaction secures Iguatemi a purchase option to become a controlling shareholder of the resale site in the next three years.

Founded in 2013, Etiqueta Unica is Latin America’s most prominent luxury resale e-commerce platform, growing 40 percent a year on average. The platform carries over 600 domestic and international labels and over 65,000 products from brands including Gucci, Chanel, Hermès and Louis Vuitton.


Iguatemi acquires stake in resale platform 

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Hudson’s Bay bids for Kohl’s

WWD
March 2022
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Hudson’s Bay bids for Kohl’s

WWD
|
March 2022

What: Hudson’s Bay Co. has made a bid for Kohl’s Corp.

Why is it important: Hudson’s Bay’s bid was reported to be above the USD 64 to USD 65 a share previously offered by other interested parties. The last-minute entering of Hudson’s Bay, sent shares of Kohl’s up 17.3% to USD 63.13, giving the company a market capitalization of USD 8.8 bn.

Hudson’s Bay would be interested in opening Kohl’s stores in Canada, and also possibly separating the Kohl’s brick-and-mortar store business and the kohls.com digital business into separate companies, similar to how HBC separated The Bay divisions into separate physical stores and dot-com businesses last year. They could also perceive value in Kohl’s real estate, and possibly sell off some locations and lease them back.


Hudson’s Bay bids for Kohl’s

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