What: Sephora will be opening a London flagship store and extending its e-commerce reach back into the UK after closing its stores in 2005.

Why it is important: Sephora will be transforming Feelunique, which it purchased for 135 million pounds last year, into Sephora.co.uk on October 17th. A London flagship store is set to open in the spring of 2023.

All products and services popular across North America will be available to UK consumers. The Feelunique reward program will remain but will be renamed upon completion of Sephora’s takeover.

Sephora returns to the UK

What: Amazon-owned Shopbop became the third high-end fashion e-tailer this year to get into beauty.

Why it is important: Amazon is trying to generate traffic to their Shopbop site by launching a beauty category that they hope will generate traffic to the site to buy other luxury goods.

The e-tailer isn’t taking on no-name brands; most of the beauty lines it’s carrying already have high brand awareness or some interest surrounding them, like Dr. Barbara Sturm or Vintner’s Daughter.

Shopbop’s homepage features a beauty takeover, with the picture of youth and diversity: models with (what appears to be) foundation-free complexions and eyelids painted in bright blue, purple, orange and pink. It’s showcasing the modern, undone way to wear makeup now, as they are trying to attract younger customers.

Amazon breaks into prestige beauty with Shopbop

What: Walmart announced the beta release of its Walmart Creator platform as it moves into social commerce.

Why it is important: Content creators on Walmart’s Creator platform will be able to make a commission, without limit, on any Walmart product links shared across all social media platforms.

The beta platform provides users with performance data and product recommendations based on their interests. Creators have the possibility to apply for beta access ahead of the holiday season with plans for a full launch of Walmart Creator set in 2023. Creators on the platform can also apply to be a part of upcoming brand campaigns.

The content creation platform follows Walmart’s expanded live-streaming partnership and Roblox virtual world earlier this yet.

Walmart moves towards social commerce with creator platform

What: Macy’s has promoted an internal profile to look after a strategic set of categories.

Why it is important: Even though Macy’s advertises on the performance of its fashion business, the title suggests that the beauty department accounts for a disproportionate share of the total business.

Macy’s has announced the promotion of Julie Walsh as SVP and GM of centre core and beauty, from her current role as DMM for fragrances. She will now have to deal with beauty, jewelry, handbags, shoes and accessories and report to Nata Dvir, CMO, whose interview was published earlier this year.

Walsh has conducted her entire career at Macy’s.

Macy’s names a new GM for center core and beauty 

What: Printemps introduced the make-over of its private-label fashion line, which are part of the modernisation strategy deployed by the group in March.

Why it is important: As part of its rejuvenation efforts, Printemps has made progress in the field of sustainability, after launching the ‘Unis vers le beau responsable’ (Together for positive engagement) initiative a year ago. With this initiative, Saison 1865 favours GOTS-certified cotton, recycled polyester and lyocell (eucalyptus cellulose), and mostly relies on Europe-based sourcing.

The aim was to create a fully-fledged fashion brand featuring the main wardrobe essentials, with an excellent value for money, and a directional twist in terms of volumes and fabrics; to be transgenerational, appealing to everyone, and eventually able to function on its own.

Giving Saison 1865 an international dimension is another growth driver for the label. Online of course, but also in upcoming locations set to open in Doha, Qatar, by the end of this year, and in New York, in 2024.

Saison 1865’s launch is supported by a press campaign and online initiatives such as partnerships with influencers and short videos broadcast online every week.

Printemps revamps private label 

Printemps Saison 1865 - Store Pictures 

What: Overseas visitors will be able to shop tax-free again after it was ended in January 2021, bringing a well-needed boost to UK retail.

Why it is important: The reintroduction of tax-free shopping for overseas tourists is expected to draw in visitors and allow the UK to properly compete with Paris and Madrid while also boosting the economy.

The chancellor’s announcement of tax-free reintegration, part of the 45-billion-pound tax-cutting mini-budget plan, comes at the perfect moment as visitors begin travelling again post-pandemic.

Overall, the retail sector is expecting the UK to gain greater standing as a top luxury shopping destination with the hopes that the reinstatement will bring more visitors and create jobs across the UK.

Tax-free shopping returns to the UK

What: Harrods has announced a dedicated loyalty programme, MyBeauty, as part of Harrods Rewards, allowing members to access various benefits and earn points.

Why it is important: As part of the launch event, Harrods five H Beauty locations will host DJs, masterclasses, champagne bars and beauty vending machines to celebrate the start of their long-term engagement strategy.

Customers who sign up for the rewards programme will receive 20 pounds in rewards points for their first 25-pound purchase.

Harrods beauty loyalty programme

What: Nike is set to release hoodies and crewnecks using its new sustainable material on September 8th.

Why it is important: Nike has famously cut down on production waste and improved manufacturing processes through its previous innovations such as Dri-Fit and Flyknit. Now, its newest fibre, Forward, could cause another shift in sportswear and garment production while reducing the company’s overall carbon footprint.

The non-woven fibres cut out some of the most carbon-intensive steps in traditional clothing production by eliminating the yarn spinning and weaving process. Similarly, to how surgical masks are created, Nike feeds a web of fibres into a machine containing a bed of needles that punch the fibres together to attach them. The resulting material is industrial and thin yet stiff creating a more rigid drape than a typical sweatshirt material.

The fabric has a higher warmth-to-weight ratio and a carbon footprint that’s 75% smaller than the brand’s comparable knits. The initial release is undyed, cutting out the water and harsh chemical used. The colour of the fabric will be influenced by the fibres fed into the machine.

While the new manufacturing process enables Nike to use a variety of recycled materials, the first release is made of 70% recycled polyester, a known polluter. Despite this, Nike has tried to offset the fibre choice by not using any zippers or extra trims, making it easier to recycle. According to Nike, the Forward fabric remains more sustainable and sheds fewer microfibres than knit fabrics also comprised of polyester.

Nike’s newest material innovation: Forward

What: The department store will reduce its Iowa distribution staff, formerly 1,100 employees, by 222 employees.

Why it is important: Business is declining for Nordstrom, and they continue to change their supply chain network to adapt to the diminished consumer demand.

In August, the department store lowered guidance, having reported Q2 earnings of 126 million USD which was greater than the same quarter of the previous year. Net sales also increased 12% in the quarter and net sales for Nordstrom Rack in Q2 increased 6.3% to 1.22 billion USD.

Nordstrom lays off over 200 fulfilment workers

What: From September 1st to October 23rd, Tommy Hilfiger dresses in the atrium of Printemps Haussmann, in the women's store.

Why it is important: The Tommy Hilfiger pop-up features its new monogram as well as two exclusive collections in conjunction with digital events.

After a three-year absence from New York Fashion Week, the brand is working hard to celebrate its return through different brand activations. On September 11th, Tommy Hilfiger will present an interactive show linked to the metaverse.

The pop-up visually echoes its connection with fashion week through scaffolding structures, mirrors and a central podium lit by XXL lightboxes that feature giant avatars.

Tommy Hilfiger pop-up in Printemps Haussmann

What: Aqua, Bloomingdale’s private label has grown into a “full lifestyle” label and the company’s bestselling private brand.

Why it is important: Aqua is a full “lifestyle” label that offers trend-driven, diverse, and accessible women’s ready-to-wear and accessories which is a big differentiator in the market with the price point being available to all generations with no specific range.

The Aqua team consist of many people within the organization including fashion directors, creative directors, and merchandisers. Part of the label’s growth strategy is collaborations with third parties, including limited edition capsule collections, like their most recent with Maeve Reilly.

Although the label is not offered in the men’s category, they still have more opportunities in the women’s space with shoes, handbags, and jewellery. As well as plans for introducing more meaningful outerwear, intimate apparel, and pet products.

Bloomingdale’s private label, Aqua, is key to their success

What: Uniqlo has officially launched its Re.Uniqlo Studio inside its Regent Street flagship where customers can repair, remake, reuse, and recycle their garments.

Why it is important: While the company had been offering its repair services in store since April, the new offer expands to include free alterations on selected bottoms and great alteration and tailoring services on a wider range of items.

In addition, customers will have access to elevated customization services and essential accessories will be available for customers who would like to repeat the techniques at home. Bespoke services and a range of one-of-a-kind Uniqlo garments which have already been mended will also be available for purchase.

Uniqlo will collect and donate clothing to in-need companies and all non-usable fabric will be recycled into raw materials for new clothing or energy sources. Instructional and inspirational books along with items that prolong the life cycle of clothing will also be available for purchase.

Uniqlo’s repair, remake and recycle studio flagship

What: Amazon made a proposal in July, promising to set up a data silo to prevent its retail arm from using data to prioritize and influence its private label products using statistics from its competitors.

Why it is important: Several non-governmental groups and the pan-European consumers’ organization BEUC criticised the offer and urged the European Commission to demand adjustments.

The EU antitrust chief is in the process of assessing the complaints and will consider the suggested improvements regarding the proposal. There is also a line of communication set up between the EU and the US Department of Justice to set in place greater regulations for Big Tech.

Lack of trust in Amazon’s proposal to end unfair business practices

What: John Lewis Partnership is recruiting more than 10,000 seasonal staff across the country to meet increased demand over the busy holiday season.

Why it is important: The group plans to offer all partners and temporary workers free food from October 3rd to January 6th as a way of helping address the rising food prices.

The 10,000 roles are within both Waitrose and John Lewis shops as well as its distribution network as the company seeks to recruit associates for its retail, delivery, temp, and supply chain operations. Those hired are promised a competitive salary, training and potential development opportunities.

John Lewis to recruit 10,000 seasonal staff roles

What: A new study suggests that luxury brands need a coordinated approach to attract top talents and make advanced applications available to smaller players due to an increase in new technologies in the sector.

Why it is important: While luxury brands remain relatively technology-adverse, the sector is on the edge of a revolution that will see more widespread adoption of everything from artificial intelligence to blockchain and 3D imaging.

More than half of respondents plan to become involved with the metaverse and NFTs, making them by far the dominant technological trends between now and 2025, and positioning luxury brands at the forefront of the Web3 revolution. The use of 3D imaging is already widespread, with 45% of luxury firms having utilized the technology.

One of the many hurdles cited by companies is a lack of internal know-how, linked to the industry’s historic focus on design, craftsmanship and marketing, with 37% of companies saying they lack the talents to support their technological ambitions.

While most efforts are focused on client engagement, luxury firms are also investing and innovating in operational excellence, a term which covers issues such as inventory management and product traceability, and sustainable development. These have the potential to greatly reduce the carbon footprint of luxury goods.

The report identified 16 technologies and questioned executives from companies on their development plans for the next three years. Results show that on average only 2.3 technologies out of the 16 mentioned in the study have been adopted. They are testing on average 3.2 additional technologies, or plan to do so in the next three years.

This is a key moment in the technological revolution for the luxury sector and it is important to lay down the foundations today in order preserve and increase its desirability in a rapidly changing environment.

A technology revolution is coming; luxury brands must act 

What: Frasers has recently received an irrevocable commitment to acquire 103,745,000 MySale shares from the former non-executive chairman of MySale after he quit his position due to conflicts of interest.

Why it is important: Frasers is eyeing 481,276,224 MySale shares representing 48.5% of voting rights. Because the company is listed on the London Stock Exchange, the UK Takeover Code’s rules apply meaning Frasers is required to make a mandatory cash offer for the shares not held by it or ‘any persons acting in concert with it’.

Frasers will likely buy on the open market which is trading only marginally above its original offer price of 2p per share.

In addition to acquiring the entire holding controlled by the former non-executive chairman Carl Jackson, Frasers has also received an irrevocable commitment from Jamie Jackson for 62,145,385 shares.

Frasers to make mandatory cash offer for MySale takeover

What: Nordstrom in New York has launched “New New York” Center Stage, a monthlong event at the 57th street flagship, showcasing local talent in efforts to recover from the pandemic.

Why it is important: To rebuild clientele after the pandemic, Nordstrom is showcasing exclusive capsules, fine jewellery, and culinary classics.

In the “centre stage” in the middle of the flagship’s main floor, Nordstrom has begun featuring exclusive capsules with the theme “power dressing.” Each designer had a different take on the theme, with a range of traditional suits to colours and patterns.

A selection of fine jewellery is showcased, and the American Bar is coming to the Nordstrom flagship for a month. They will take over the 3rd floor with their culinary and cocktail classics.

The department store’s flagship on 57th street opened in October 2019, just weeks before the start of the pandemic. In August 2019, before the opening, the flagship raised awareness with ads of New York City street scenes and lots of fashion throughout its 320,000 square foot space across seven levels. After the opening, it caused lots of traffic until the pandemic forced it to close until June 2020. Since the reopening, the store has seen traffic steadily building.

Nordstrom is rebuilding clientele post-pandemic

What: The city's premium shopping mall Harbour City saw more than 70 new store openings in the first three quarters of 2022.

Why it is important: The shopping centre expects to see 100 new tenants this year and with relaxing quarantine rules, Hong Kong is expected more visitors.

Much of the growth has been driven by local demand as strict border controls remain intact with quarantine rules starting to loosen just last month. Retail revenue reports for the luxury shopping destination show an increase of 1% and an operating profit rise of 6% compared to the same time last year. For the first eight months of 2022, weekend and holiday traffic increased 10% year-over-year.

The Census and Statistics Department reported in July that retail sales value rose 4.1% year-over-year to 28.3 billion Hong Kong dollars, or 3.6 billion USD, reversing a two-month decline. July sales of watches, clocks and valuable gifts jumped 28.3% in value, while apparel retail sales value rose 3.7%.

Online retail sales value increased 8.6% year-over-year to 2.2 billion Hong Kong dollars, or 280 million USD.

Hints of a retail rebound in Hong Kong

What: London-based concept store Machine-A and multi-brand retailer Smets from Brussels, are teaming up with the Selfridges’ team to open a pop-up featuring a selected range of items from emerging designers, exclusive drops, as well as pieces from Selfridges' sustainability-focused projects Project Earth and Reselfridges.

Why it is important: The project is titled ‘& Good Company’ which is focused on sharing inspiration and creativity from some of the best independent multi-brand stores. The London department store believes in supporting their businesses by offering the chance to use the Corner Shop as a collaborative retail platform.

Machine-A will bring 22 brands, 16 of which will be new to Selfridges and a vintage edit under the concept Machine-B. Smets will bring three emerging Belgian designers to Selfridges for the first time and offer a selection of design pieces, including sculptures, candles and books. As well, the retailer will bring a 27-piece archival edit of Alaïa jewellery and ready-to-wear pieces from the brand’s spring and fall 2017 collections.

Machine-A and Smets open pop-up in Selfridges for Fashion Month

What: Ferragamo’s hotel management company, Lungarno Collection, will open a five-star hotel in an area extending over 10,000 square metres in the heart of Milan.

Why it is important: The retailer plans to create a luxury and lifestyle hub in this central Milanese location where they will host Ferragamo’s third hotel, a gourmet restaurant, wellness centre, a huge garden, and exclusive stores.

Among the exclusive stores will be the iconic multi-brand fashion retailer Antonia, which will be their second store in Milan.

The building was built in 1564 as one of the oldest seminaries in Europe. It has been unused since 2002, and is now undergoing extensive renovation work. The project has been commissioned by architect Michele de Lucci, and the complex is expected to become fully operational by the end of 2022.

Ferragamo moves into hospitality 

What: After completing a bankruptcy reorganization during the pandemic, the CEO and CFO of Neiman Marcus Group presented the current success of the Dallas-based luxury retailer’s strategy.

Why it is important: For the first time since 2004, Neiman Marcus appeared at the Goldman Sachs retailing event to present its renewed profitability, however, there was no mention of whether the company would return to the public markets.

Neiman Marcus is owned by three of the biggest wealth funds on Wall Street: PIMCO, Davidson Kempner Capital and Sixth Street. Farfetch is also a minority owner of the company and has helped Neiman Marcus expand its sales internationally faster than it could have done alone.

Thanks to its high-value earning clients and appeal to luxury brands, the company has regained profitabaility. According to the presentation, 40% of its revenue is coming from only 2% of all clients who spend, on average, 27,000 USD per year. They retain 90% of these clients which is one of the reasons brands want to be in their stores.

With over 1 billion USD in liquidity, Neiman Marcus Group is preparing to invest in remodelling stores over the next three years.

Neiman Marcus Group presents to Wall Street

What: Selfridges has announced the continuation of its partnership with Kidswear Collective and the expansion of the resale products into its other locations.

Why it is important: The concept will be coming to Selfridges’ Birmingham, Manchester and Trafford stores with each location carrying clothing, footwear and accessories for kids ages 0-14. An e-commerce edit will also become available.

The pop-up began in the Oxford Street flagship store’s kidswear department as part of Selfridges’ Project Earth initiative.

Selfridges renews kidswear resale platform partnership

What: La Fine Equipe opens a pop-up store at BHV.

Why it is important: The pop-up has more than 60 young creators with a renewed offer every Wednesday.

Their space in BHV is 100 metres squared with a selection of jewellery, accessories, decoration, and lifestyle products from 17 designers for the start of the school year.

Since 2015, La Fine Equipe has collaborated with many emerging brands while simultaneously bringing together different fashion players in the same space: creators, influencers, entrepreneurs and stylists.

La Fine Equipe “pops off” at BHV

What: Target will roll out a women’s ready-to-wear brand that brings a new creative director each quarter to codesign the collection.

Why it is important: The big-box retailer continues its mission of supporting diversity and inclusivity while expanding its fashion offer by collaborating with Kahlana Barfield-Brown, former fashion and beauty editor for “InStyle,” for the first Future Collective release

The news of Future Collective follows Target’s recent partnership with menswear brand Houston White. The retailer now has 18 owned apparel brands in multiple categories, across men’s, women’s and children. Ten of which are billion-dollar brands.

Target has announced that each Future Collective collection will be limited-edition to increase the urgency factor for consumers to buy.

Target launches new owned brand “Future Collective”