What: Printemps unveiled a new logo and brand identity as it prepares to launch its biggest marketing push in seven years so it will once again be part of the conversation.

Why is it important: “Tout commence au Printemps,” which translates as “Everything starts at Printemps” but is also a play on the name of the store, which means “spring” in French, will be launched as a nationwide advertising campaign for their new look and brand identity.

A two-day Festival de Printemps, featuring music performances, food stands, street art, and cheerleaders, will take place March 19th and 20th, coinciding with the arrival of spring in the Northern Hemisphere. A luminous floral design will be displayed on its facade, as well as immersive window displays, including two interactive windows equipped with digital sensors. Meanwhile, the retailer is unveiling eight new concepts, from beauty to vintage watches, at its Boulevard Haussmann flagship in Paris.

The redesigned printemps.com site, featuring the brand’s new green, white and gold colour scheme, and stylised letter “P,” will feature new functionalities including a simplified checkout system, the launch of a second-hand offer, and a section curated by 40 personal shoppers. It will also host a virtual boutique, where buyers will automatically enter a draw to win 30 NFTs designed with French artist Romain Froquet.

The restaurant offer has been reimagined. Elsewhere in the department store, the historic Maria Luisa concession has been rebranded as L’Endroit featuring 35 brands, including eight new labels for spring. There is a new 2,150-square-foot section dedicated to items from previous seasons, segmented by colour. New partnerships include a tie-up with Watchfinder & Co. on a selection of pre-owned timepieces, and a collaboration with Los Angeles-based digital fashion start-up DressX on a pop-up that will feature five products designed exclusively for Printemps.

The last time Printemps disclosed annual sales was for the fiscal year ending in March 2019, where revenues totaled EUR 1.7 bn euros. It will take another two or three years before Printemps returns to that level, noting that footfall is down 30% since 2018.

E-commerce sales in the last 12 months were up 31% versus fiscal 2020, while omnichannel revenues rose 52%. The group has seen a 10% acceleration of sales to local customers since 2020, and a return of foreign visitors. Between October and December, sales to U.S. customers rose 53% versus in 2019, while those from Europe and the Middle East registered a 23% bump.

Printemps rebrands 

What: Stockmann announced it will divest its department store in the heart of Helsinki to Keva, the leading pension provider for public sector employees in Finland.

Why it is important: Stockmann will use the proceeds of the divestment to fully repay the over 342 million euros in secured restructuring debt and almost 22 million euros in unsecured restructuring debt.

Stockmann will continue operating in the property under a long-term leaseback agreement signed as part of the sale.

Keva will pay the bulk of the price, over 390 million euros, in connection with the transaction and take the remainder into account in rent in the next couple of years. The transaction is expected to be closed by the end of April.

Stockmann sells iconic department store for EUR 400m to pay off debt

What: Walmart has built a tech platform that powers its last-mile delivery ecosystem.

Why it is important: The retailer has increased the number of digital orders coming from its stores by 170% in the last year, leading it to scale its automated market fulfillment centers, tap machine learning and test autonomous delivery.

Walmart’s retail tech that supports its fulfillment operations is built around its own marketplace and uses automation and machine learning to turn a large number of factors into unable data. The seamless communication across the entire delivery process allows the retailer to replenishment at a shorter cycle, gain close-to-real-time insights of inventory and ultimately react to customer demand. Thus, increasing the shopping experience for customers.

The next phase of Walmart’s store integration and evolution is adding more market fulfillment centers to stores. The retailer has also been testing drones and autonomous vehicles to fulfill order in the last mile.

Walmart steps up automated store distribution

What: British retailer, the John Lewis Partnership, reported sharply lower annual losses and restored its staff bonus in fiscal year 2021, saying its recovery plan was gaining momentum.

Why it is important: John Lewis department store was hit hard by Covid but achieved its highest ever sales of GBP 4.93bn, up 8% like-for-like on last year.

Here is a summary of the Partnership’s results:

• Profit before exceptional items rebounded to GBP 181m, up 38% from last year.
• Loss before tax was GBP 26m, GBP491m better than last year.
• A bonus of 3% was awarded to Partners, equivalent to 1.5 weeks’ pay.
• Partnership to pay voluntary Real Living Wage nationwide this year; 2% pay rise.
• Total Partnership sales of GBP 12.5bn, up 1%.
• John Lewis achieved its highest ever sales of GBP 4.93bn, up 8% like-for-like on last year.
• Waitrose sales hit GBP 7.54bn, up 1% like-for-like on last year.

John Lewis Partnership shares fiscal 2021 results

What: Despite a lack of tourists in Thailand, Siam Piwat reports surging sales.

Why is it important: Siam Piwat says sales at its part-owned IconSiam flagship in Bangkok soared 43% in the final quarter of last year, the strongest growth in the three years since the centre opened, as the impact of Covid-related movement restrictions eased.

Sales of luxury brands “skyrocketed” during the past two years after several high-profile brands increased their store space or partnered with Siam Piwat in pop-ups.

Their “OneSiam SuperApp” that launched in late 2021 helped drive sales from registered members by more than 45% year on year. The app connects with more than 1,000 tenant stores and 100 business partners across 13 industries.

Siam Piwat says it aims to boost sales to member customers by 30% this year.

Siam Piwat’s sales surge amid Covid 

What: Klarna's payment solutions and other services will be available at 150 Brookfield shopping centers to elevate the shopping experience.

Why is it important: Klarna and Brookfield Properties team up in a multi-year partnership to exclusively offer Klarna’s payment solutions and provide experiential marketing to 150 U.S. shopping centers, elevating the in-store shopping experience for millions.

This partnership with Klarna will also include out-of-home media, live stream shopping, augmented reality, as well as their payment solutions.

Klarna partners with Brookfield shopping centers

What: Macy’s announced the appointment of Marie Chandoha, former president and chief executive officer of Charles Schwab Investment Management, and Jill Granoff, managing partner of Eurazeo and chief executive officer of Eurazeo’s Brands division, to its board of directors.

Why is it important: Chandoha brings more than 35 years in financial services and investment management spaces. She led Charles Schwab Investment Management’s product and digital transformation, building a high-performing organization and doubling the firm’s assets under management.

Granoff brings 30 years of deep leadership experience building and growing consumer-driven companies with expertise as a strategist and brand builder in the retail, beauty and fashion industries. In her roles at Eurazeo, she is responsible for leading investment activities and overseeing the performance of the firm’s Brands portfolio globally.

With the addition of Chandoha and Granoff, Macy’s board will comprise 14 members.

Macy’s adds Jill Granoff and Marie Chandoha to the board of directors

Macy’s adds Jill Granoff and Marie Chandoha to the board of directors

What: Macy's has been repositioning its store fleet and seeking to open more off-mall locations. They will contribute “a material level of volume over time.”

Why it is important: Market by Macy’s, whose sales are reportedly beyond expectations, and Bloomie’s small store format are critical to the growth of the store's channel and critical to the growth of the omnichannel business.

The number of new customers shopping at these stores is materially higher than mall-based stores. The off-mall strategy focuses on doing business at a very local level, has customer experience scores meaningfully higher than Macy’s mall-based stores, and features easier navigation, quick and easy checkouts, and colleagues available to help customers.

Additional Bloomie’s stores are in the works: they will offer contemporary and luxury brands, services, tech-enabled stylists, new store design concepts and a restaurant. Market by Macy’s, with three units in Texas and two in Atlanta, will expand to additional markets. The specialty format has branded and private-label fashion, products from local designers and direct-to-consumer brands, food, an apothecary, plants, home items and a café.

One hundred sixty Macy department stores have “curated” assortments focused on customers under 40 and a diverse audience, and weighted toward certain brands such as Michael Kors, Steve Madden, Cotton On and private brands such as And Now This. Adjacencies have changed for better flow and navigation, and there’s cross-merchandising of brands.

Some Macy’s store closures have delayed in order to maintain a physical presence in many markets while the off-mall format stores are scaled up. They also serve as fulfilment hubs supporting the digital operations. Keeping these cash-positive stores open also helps to fund the investments to reposition the fleet over the next several years.

On the digital side, Macy’s and Bloomingdales’s are developing marketplaces this year, to offer consumers more products, more brands, more categories and greater depth in categories already carried. Digital sales are seen growing to the mid 40% range as a percent of total sales of Macy’s total volume, from around 35% last year, and 25% the year before.

Macy’s off-mall strategy 

What: 'Our Journey to Revolutionise Impact,' Neiman Marcus’ first environmental social governance report, shares its progress to date, celebrating recent and upcoming investments, and outlining its 2025 ESG strategy.

Why is it important: NMG analysed data from multiple sources, including ESG ratings and rankings, research reports from industry media outlets and trade associations, disclosures from NMG's best-in-class peers, ESG reporting frameworks like Global Reporting Initiative (GRI) and Sustainability Accounting Standards Board (SASB), etc. to inform its strategy.

NMG formulated a strategy that is comprised of three components. First, “Advancing Sustainable Products & Services,” which focuses on climate change, increasing sustainable and ethical products, and implementing circular services, NMG aims to make an impact on environmental issues across the entire value chain.

NMG also aims to “Cultivate a Culture of Belonging” for its workforce, customers, and community by setting goals to increase racial diversity in leadership roles, advance workplace equity in line with prominent external standards, uplift and support women-founded fashion technology companies, and champion inclusive marketplaces by increasing spending with diverse retail and non-retail suppliers.

Finally, “Leading with Love in Our Communities,” by aligning its corporate giving strategy with its ESG strategy, ensures that the organisation's values and purpose guide the decision-making process of funding.

Neiman Marcus shares ESG report

What: Patrice Wagner on the exclusive exhibitions that Le Bon Marché is famous for in Paris.

Why it is important: For him, collaborations are not about prices or “milking” high end brands, but a part of the physical retail experience.

Patrice Wagner reflects on the current exhibition at Le Bon Marché, Exhibition X, which fosters exclusive collaborations between Le Bon Marché and its brands. For him, collaborations are crucial in retail because they can bring fun and when properly executed on site, are without comparison with digital experiences.

Patrice Wagner interview 

What: Remote work has become the norm for millions of people. Now, retail store associates are eager to join the revolution — and their employers are scrambling to make it a viable option.

Why it is important: The labour shortages are forcing fashion firms to rethink strategies for hiring and retaining workers in low-paying, low-mobility jobs. New technologies, including the growing use of social media and live streaming to sell clothes from stores, are helping some retailers lay the groundwork for associates to work virtually.

In the past two years, both Nordstrom and Neiman Marcus have launched apps that allow their sellers to send messages to customers, share product recommendations and complete their purchases. The apps proved their worth during the pandemic’s early days when they allowed some sales associates to avoid furloughs and connect with consumers online.

With widespread adoption still a ways away, store associates most often use remote selling apps from their brick-and-mortar stores themselves. At Neiman Marcus, some stores have been redesigned with “terminals” and other built-out spaces in the backroom where associates use tablets and cell phones to chat with customers, host styling sessions and even execute sales transactions without stepping foot on a sales floor.

Retailers are also increasingly experimenting with livestreaming which will account for USD 26 billion by 2023 in the US. On the landing page for certain products on its e-commerce site, Nordstrom features videos of sales associates describing the feel and fit of a garment, even offering styling advice.

Retailers are also encouraging associates to embrace an influencer mindset. Neiman Marcus is piloting a program to formalise the social media content processes for style advisors. If retailers were to formally require store associates to post on social media, they may need to update their compensation packages accordingly. They will also need to invest in teaching workers to take on these tasks.

Even as some retailers experiment with remote work for sales associates, complicated challenges around compensation, scheduling and company-specific needs mean the industry still has a ways to go before it’s a widespread reality.

Can store associates work remotely?

What: The fast fashion giant is launching a marketplace with a roster of 13 external brands.

Why it is important: For traditional retailers, competition is now coming from everywhere, including from brands themselves. The brands’ marketplace approach generates two opportunities for department stores: either team up with them (as shown by FNAC/Darty and Manor) or significantly work on the store’s offer differentiation.

Fast fashion giant is launching a “H&M with friends” marketplace in Sweden and Germany, where customers will be able to find the group’s own brands (Weekdat, &Other Stories, Monki, Arket) but also Lee, Fila, Superdry and Crocs, among others (a total of 13 external brands will be also present).

Sweden and Germany are test markets, and if the experience is successful, other countries will be included in the programme. As of today, more than 1/3 of H&M’s revenue comes from e-commerce.

H&M is not the first brand to venture in marketplace, as Decathlon or Maisons du Monde already launched such initiatives.

H&M becomes a marketplace

What: Central accelerates in the food retail innovation by opening a supermarket in the metaverse.

Why it is important: Even though the market might not be ready yet, launching such initiatives even in the early phase of the metaverse allows to make mistakes and trials before others, and therefore potentially acquire a strategic understanding of the best practices in virtual worlds.

Central Retail is teaming up with digital tech asset platform Zipmex to launch a supermarket in the metaverse, as part of the “CRC Retailligence Strategy” which focuses on technology and innovation in food retail.

This is not the first virtual initiative as Central already launched a virtual shopping mall in October.

Central Retail to roll out blockchain-powered supermarket in the metaverse 

What: Second-hand makes a place for itself at Monoprix and installs product corners at 58 stores in France.

Why is it important: The second-hand spaces at Monoprix will host fashion and home items.

For the ready-to-wear side, french company “Entremains” will provide a curation of vintage clothing from luxury brands in ten Monoprix addresses.

“Once upon a time” was also asked to provide second-hand clothes for babies and children with a Monoprix stamp. They will be in the corners at 25 points of sale. For the home department, items from the home universe, picked up by Selency, will be on sale in 25 Monoprix units.

Monoprix installs 58 second-hand spaces

What: Chinese company Alibaba reported less than expected revenue results.

Why is it important: Due to the increase of competition and growth in e-commerce Alibaba Group Holding Ltd announced that this past year had the slowest-ever increase in their revenue since going public in 2014.

The company was expected to produce revenue of 246.37 billion yuan. However, they only reported a 10 percent increase in revenue as of the third quarter to finish off the quarter with 242.6 billion yuan.

Alibaba reports quarterly revenue growth

What: Aldi opens a one-of-a-kind store dedicated to its own brand.

Why it is important: Brand building and advertising is key for retailers if they want to remain attractive to customers and make them fell they are part of a community.

Aldi  has opened “Checkpoint Aldi” in Berlin city centre to sell exclusive Aldi-branded merchandise for hardcore fans. It is located a few minutes away from Checkpoint Charlie and uses the space to do some brand building with Aldi and give facts and figures about the company. It provides exclusive T-shirts, umbrellas, mugs, caps on 650 sqm and aims to become a touristic attraction in Berlin.

Aldi becomes a tourist attraction in Berlin 

What: Retail-as-a-service startup, B8ta, has shuttered its U.S. operations.

Why it is important: B8ta was hoping to reinvent brick-and-mortar retail, but ultimately its reliance on brick-and-mortar stores proved to be its downfall after the company failed to reach a deal with landlords that would allow them to stay afloat.

B8ta dubbed itself a retail-as-a-service platform, rather than a retailer. Brands paid a monthly fee to not only display their products at a B8ta store, but also to get access to the company’s software, through which they received information like how much time customers spent demoing a product. The thesis of B8ta was that brands would ultimately pay for the software because of the great in-store experience and foot traffic it provided.

The conflict with the landlords follows a decision last year made by the company to half its store count due to decreased foot traffic. International affiliate B8ta Japan, which operated three stores, acquired the brand’s licenses and is now a standalone, operational business. B8ta Mena also remains operational in the UAE.

B8ta shutters U.S. operations after failing to reach a deal with landlords

What: With consumers prioritizing environmental sustainability, Amazon and Target unveiled stores that aim to use less energy than they produce.

Why it is important: The large retailers are committing to run their companies in a more environmentally sustainable manner, a commitment that could appeal to eco-conscious consumers.

Target's first net zero energy store located in Vista, California, will act as a testing site for innovations that will inform future store design. Target will also be designing all of its private label products for a circular future by 2040. In order to do this, Target will use more recyclable, durable, and sustainably-sourced materials.  From a facilities perspective, Target's store has solar carports, an electric HVAC system, CO2 refrigeration and LED lighting. Drawing from its experience, Target said it plans to add CO2 refrigeration to all of its stores by 2040.

The new Amazon Fresh store, which is pursuing net zero carbon certification, is located in Seattle. The store features a CO2-based refrigeration system, steel byproducts to reduce embodied carbon and electricity sourced from the company's renewable energy projects.  Amazon said that some of the upgrades will be used at all of its Amazon Fresh grocery stores going forward, such as the lower-carbon concrete flooring. Amazon will use an internal system created by Amazon Web Services' Professional Services Sustainability Practice to track its Seattle store's environmental impact.

Target and Amazon debut sustainable store concepts

What: While there are rumors that the Bond Street store might be for sale, Fenwick has announced a major overhaul of the Newcastle flagship.

Why it is important: Even though digital can not be missed, all retailers keep on investing in their physical stores, as also exemplified by Breuninger which, although it is moving fast in e-commerce, keeps on investing resources, time and money into the revamping and expansion of its physical stores.

Fenwick will begin a complete renovation of the Newcastle flagship which will take place over the next 5 years, with a total investment of £40 m, and starting by the beauty hall and the accessories department.

This renovation coincides with the initiatives launched to mark the 140th anniversary of the company, which translated into collaborations with brands such as Edeline Lee, Rixo, Paul Smith and Fred Perry.

Fenwick announces a £40 m investment in its Newcastle flagship 

What: Demand for new stores in central London is at record levels as the retail sector continues to recover from the pandemic.

Why is it important: While major closures on Oxford Street created big voids on the famous shopping street, they presented huge opportunities for new retailers to use up the available space.

There have been more than 1,000 requests from retailers or restaurants to find space in central London over the past year, and 177 of them were from businesses that have never had a presence in the capital before.

Although the number of empty sites increased in many areas during the pandemic the void rates they have created are expected to fall as recovery picks up.

Retail space in central London in high demand

What: The John Lewis Partnership is removing from sale products in Waitrose and John Lewis that are made in Russia.

Why is it important: John Lewis partnership will no longer sell Russian Vodka in Waitrose and a line of pizza oven pellets in John Lewis. They are working with suppliers to review products that have components of Russian origin and will be seeking to mitigate further exposure to the region.

John Lewis removes Russian made products from partnership

What: Macy’s is prioritising its private brand portfolio to grow the overall business and capture market share by offering assortments that build style credibility at compelling prices.

Why is it important: Leading the way in the development of well-designed and intensely marketed private brands is Target. After embarking on a private label reboot in 2016. Target now boasts 48 such brands, across apparel, home, consumer goods, and grocery. They brought in $30 billion in 2021, about $6 billion more than Macy's as a whole did. Macy's, who said they would revamp their own brands, has turned to Target veterans. Macy's nameplate (not counting its Bloomingdale's) runs 24 private labels across categories, representing 15% to 20% of its volume; the retailer doesn't disclose their revenue.

In 2020, Macy's unveiled its Polaris turnaround plan, and the goal was for its INC International Concepts, Alfani, Style & Co and Charter Club apparel lines to be well on their way to becoming a billion-dollar brand — to account for 25% of sales by 2025. Since then, with its turnaround resumed after getting interrupted by the pandemic, Macy's has introduced new labels, including ‘And Now This’ women's apparel, and Oake bedding.

Macy’s recently contracted with Brand Love Lab, run by Nadine Steklenski and Noria Morales, two executives instrumental in Target's past brand design efforts. Last week, Emily Erusha-Hilleque, was hired to join Macy's own ranks.

While Target customers can buy name brands across categories, including Apple, Levi's and Lego and all manner of groceries, beauty and household essentials, its apparel and home goods are dominated by its private labels. By contrast, Macy's is in the business of being an exceptional distributor of third-party brands.

With some brands pulling back from department stores, Macy's may have an opportunity to fill the market niche and literal store space left behind. Rather than mimicking Target, they will tuck under Nordstrom. Slick new brands won't matter in a sea of clutter, with no sign of intelligent life. Macy’s has up their game in basic retail blocking and tackling to have anything matter.

Macy’s prioritizes its private brands 

What: Macy’s takes on former Target designer, Emily Erusha-Hilleque, as a senior vice president leading the private brand strategy and overseeing the private brands’ design teams in apparel, center core, and home.

Why is it important: Private brands at Macy's account for 15% to 20% of the total volume and is seen growing to around 25% by 2025. It’s a critical role that Erusha-Hilleque will fill. The buildup of the private brand business is a core component of Macy’s “Polaris” strategy, which is the road map for taking the retailer into the future.

Erusha-Hilleque will report to the chief merchandising officer of Macy’s. In driving the private brand strategy, she will be working with Macy’s merchandising and sourcing teams.

Macy’s hires new designer for private brands

What: Target announced a new starting hourly wage range of USD15 to USD24 for in-store employees, supply chain facilities, and corporate headquarters depending on the job title and location.

Why is it important: This news comes as retailers across the US struggle to fill open jobs in offices and stores. Almost 4.3 million people quit their jobs in December and some retailers have hiked pay and benefits to attract and retain workers.

Along with Target’s new starting hourly wage, they also announced a rollout of expanded health care and education benefits for employees. Target’s announcement represents a $300 million investment in its team.

Target increases starting wages for certain roles