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Paris inaugurates renovated forum des Halles

April 2016
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Paris inaugurates renovated forum des Halles

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April 2016

Paris Mayor Anne Hidalgo inaugurated the renovated Forum des Halles, capping five years of construction marked by controversy and debate over the dramatic steel-and-glass canopy that tops the mostly underground shopping center.


The refurbished shopping center includes an additional 161,500 square feet of selling space. The canopy, designed by Paris-based architects Patrick Berger and Jacques Anziutti, houses 64,500 square feet of retail space. It is home to 18 stores, including Nike, Superdry, Lego and Sephora. The latter is only the second Sephora store in Paris to feature a skin-care bar, after the flagship on Avenue des Champs-Élysées.


There is also a 3,000-square-foot concept store called L'Exception dedicated to upstart labels, the brainchild of Régis Pennel, founder of the online store of the same name that specializes in French brands including Kenzo, Carven and Maison Kitsuné.


In all, there are 35 newcomers including Sandro, Claudie Pierlot, Lacoste, Aigle, Calvin Klein Underwear and backpacks label Herschel, plus convenience store Monoprix, which will open next year.


Among the coming attractions is Champeaux, a brasserie by Alain Ducasse with a stunning view on the Church of Saint-Eustache, set to open April 11. It's one of two restaurants under the canopy alongside Za, a hip bistro designed by Philippe Starck.


The shopping center will be home to a total of 150 stores, versus 115 before and it will open on Sundays.


The Forum des Halles also houses several cultural spaces, including a music conservatory, multimedia library and La Place, a new association dedicated to hip-hop culture that is headed by designer Agnès Troublé, aka Agnès b., who has partially financed the space.


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CEO leaves Stockmann

April 2016
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CEO leaves Stockmann

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April 2016

Stockmann of Finland has announced that CEO Per Thelin is to leave the company from 4 April 2016. He was appointed in November 2014 and has overseen the selling off of the Russian business, of the Seppälä chain and the restructuring of the company into three divisions : Retail, Lindex and Real Estate. CFO Lauri Veijalainen has been appointed interim CEO.


see press release

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Le Bon Marché unveils revamped women's floor

April 2016
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Le Bon Marché unveils revamped women's floor

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April 2016

Le Bon Marché has unveiled a new women's floor dedicated to younger, more accessible fashion — replete with such attractions as an organic juice bar and an in-house denim factory, equipped with state-of-the-art machinery, allowing the customization of a pair of jeans via embroidery, laser or print techniques.


The atelier sits alongside an expanded denim offering that includes exclusive labels such as Kéji, Broken Bow and BLK DNM, as well as a billboard educating the customer about the various cuts — from boot to skinny — and what tops and shoe styles go with them.


A new department dubbed The Sporting Room, with brands such as Adidas by Stella McCartney, James Perse and K-Way also incorporates an innovative space called #Hashtag store, dedicated mostly to brands that are only available online.


The floor also houses a series of multibrand spaces with a hand-picked selection of niche and emerging brands, for which the department stores has created stronger liaisons between its buying and styling teams, making up a total of 34 people.


The retailer, whose customers are 80 percent female, also made room for several pop-up areas that are to change every two to three weeks.


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Paperless post partners with Liberty

April 2016
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Paperless post partners with Liberty

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April 2016

Paperless Post, the American company known for its hybrid digital and paper stationery, is launching in the U.K.


To mark the launch, the company is collaborating with Liberty on a 100-piece collection of invitations designed using prints from the British department store's extensive archives. "Liberty is quite famous and well-appreciated in the U.S. We see it as a quintessentially British heritage brand that represents decades and decades of British aesthetics from William Morris to the iconic floral prints," said James Hirschfeld, who founded the company in 2009 alongside his sister, Alexa Hirschfeld. "It was a great way of diving into a British heritage brand and capturing that English country aesthetic. A lot of invitations were designed with an English country wedding or summer party in mind, so the partnership sits very well for the type of entertaining that we are trying to support."


The collection mainly features floral patterns; delicate designs in pastel colors are used for baby shower and christening invitations, while bolder prints are used to decorate invitations for weddings or summer entertaining.


Entering the U.K. market is the first step in an international expansion plan. The company is simultaneously working on launches in Canada and Australia, with further extensions in the works later this year.

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Lotte opens downtown Duty-free shop in Tokyo

April 2016
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Lotte opens downtown Duty-free shop in Tokyo

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April 2016

South Korean and Japanese retail giant Lotte has opened its first downtown duty-free store in Japan as part of its plan to drive revenue from travel retail. Lotte is also planning to open four more similar downtown stores in Japan within five years, targeting the influx of Chinese tourists.


The new store, situated in a Ginza shopping mall, will offer tax-free shopping for luxury and Japanese brands including Samantha Thavasa, Casio and Kose skincare. Consumption tax, import duties and tobacco and liquor taxes are waived at the shop when customers present their passport and air ticket at checkout. Purchased goods can only be picked up at their departing airport after clearing customs.


The number of foreign visitors to Japan is expected to reach 40m in 2020, according to government data, representing a huge opportunity for department store chains struggling to keep up with cheaper fast fashion chains.


Isetan opened a similar duty-free concept in Ginza in January, and will open another one in Fukuoka this month.

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Lancôme brings made-to-measure makeup to Nordstrom

April 2016
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Lancôme brings made-to-measure makeup to Nordstrom

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April 2016

Turning department stores into factory floors where cosmetics can be immediately whipped up to suit to any individual's specifications sounds like a promising proposition and Lancôme is testing whether it can deliver on that promise by producing made-to-measure makeup at the counter.


Under the auspices of the L'Oréal Technology Incubator, the L'Oréal-owned beauty brand piloted a Le Teint Particulier custom-blended foundation program starting in November at Nordstrom stores in Seattle and Torrance, Calif. The program responds to gaps in complexion shade selections particularly affecting women of color — a frustrating issue intensified by growing diversity — and consumer demand for customization fueled by the power of smartphones. Le Teint Particulier builds upon technology created by Sayuki Custom Cosmetics, a Laguna Hills, Calif.-based company L'Oréal acquired. The technology turns three scans of a customer (usually of the cheek, forehead and jawline) taken on a colorimeter, an instrument assessing skin color, into a recipe for how much red, yellow, black and white pigment is required to make a foundation that matches the customer's skin tone. The precise amounts of pigments are poured into a bottle over three to four minutes in a microwave-size machine prior to be shaken for two minutes or so in a smaller machine. The entire process takes 30 to 45 minutes.


After its prepared on-site, Le Teint Particulier's personalized foundation is handed to the customer couched in black inside a substantial white box, and inscribed with the name of the customer and a complexion identification number for repeat purchases at Nordstrom.

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Costa and Zucchelli out at Clavin Klein

April 2016
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Costa and Zucchelli out at Clavin Klein

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April 2016

After months of speculation, Calvin Klein Collection creative directors Francisco Costa (Women's Creative Director) and Italo Zucchelli (Men's Creative Director) are leaving the company as part of a new global creative strategy unifying all Calvin Klein brands under one creative vision. "This creative strategy marks the beginning of another significant chapter in Calvin Klein's brand legacy since Mr. Klein's retirement," chief executive Steve Shiffman said in a statement. "I would like to thank Francisco and Italo for their unwavering commitment to the Calvin Klein brand and their accomplishments over the past decade. They have both contributed immensely to making Calvin Klein a global leader in the fashion industry, and they have done so with dedication, focus and creativity."


The move paves the way for Raf Simons — who left his role as creative director of Christian Dior women's in October 2015 — to take the creative reins at Calvin Klein, an appointment that has been widely rumoured for several months.

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Harvey Nichols revamps men's floors

April 2016
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Harvey Nichols revamps men's floors

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April 2016

In a bid to capture the attention of time-poor, cash-rich and digitally dependent customers, Harvey Nichols is upping its men's wear play with a refurbished department designed and merchandised with efficiency — and indulgence — in mind. The 28,000-square-foot space spans two lower ground floors. The new department was designed by Virgile + Partners, which has worked before with Harvey Nichols as well as with retailers such as Burberry, John Lewis, Harrods and Space NK.


Men's wear is phase one in the Knightsbridge store's long-awaited refurbishment plan, a four-year project spearheaded by Stacey Cartwright, who took over as chief executive officer in 2014.


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Glam gardens at Saks

April 2016
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Glam gardens at Saks

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April 2016

Saks Fifth Avenue's "Glam Gardens" campaign looks like a perennial. The second largest beauty event on the luxury chain's calendar has started and will run through May 24. This year theme "The Secret Garden," features beauty products from 30 vendors, exclusives, launches and bestsellers included — as well as a "high tea" on Fifth Avenue and complementary beauty services among others. The event is happening in the beauty departments of all 40 Saks Fifth Avenue stores in the U.S.

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Selfridges Unveils its Body Studio Department

April 2016
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Selfridges Unveils its Body Studio Department

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April 2016

Selfridges is changing shape with the unveiling of the Body Studio, a 37,000-square-foot space dedicated to women of various sizes and figures – and with more than clothing on offer. The store's largest-ever department is all about off-duty dressing and stocks lingerie, swimwear, pyjamas and high-performance sports gear. It also has a café, courtesy of Hemsley and Hemsley, sister chefs who push organic greens and proteins, and a Daniel Galvin hair salon with 28 stations, two beauty rooms and a private VIP area.


The department is on Selfridges' Floor Three, located above the Shoe Galleries and connected to them by an escalator. Skylights and picture windows overlooking an interior garden are part of the design intended to help assuage shoppers' anxieties about dressing. It was created by the Shanghai-based architects Neri and Hu, whose past projects include Lane Crawford's Lab and London's Pollen Street Social restaurant.


This is the first major unveiling in Selfridges' 300 million pounds, ($428 million) five-year redevelopment project that was revealed two years ago.

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Tangs to personalize online shopping

April 2016
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Tangs to personalize online shopping

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April 2016

Singapore department store group Tangs will introduce new technology to its e-commerce website next month to improve customers' virtual fitting experience.

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Levi's redefines Denim with Aquafil

April 2016
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Levi's redefines Denim with Aquafil

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April 2016

Denim giant Levi Strauss & Co is partnering with Italian fibre producer Aquafil to develop a jeanswear collection made from regenerated nylon that includes waste materials such as old carpets and fishing nets. Made from 100% regenerated nylon waste materials, Aquafil's Econyl fibre helps divert global waste streams from landfills and oceans and is already used to produce a wide range of textile products such as athletic sportswear, swimwear, and carpets. The collection, Levi Strauss & Co's first made with Econyl and included in its 522 men's model, builds on the denim group's commitment to a sustainable supply chain.


"We envision a world where everyday items don't have to come at the expense of the environment," said Aquafil CEO Giulio Bonazzi. "This new partnership is further proof that sustainable materials can be used to reinvigorate products that have been traditionally made. Levi's is redefining the denim industry."

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Borghese launches mask line in Macy's

April 2016
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Borghese launches mask line in Macy's

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April 2016

The beauty businesses founded by Princess Marcella Borghese in the Fifties, Borghese, is aiming its new line of mud and sheet masks at a younger consumer as part of a turnaround effort. The new lineup is launching exclusively with Macy's.


"We've been doing mineral masks, mud masks, for 30-plus years," said Borghese chief executive officer Christopher West, but sheet masks are a new territory for the business. "It still uses the same proprietary ingredients and technology that we have in the mud, it's just in a format that is much more easy for the woman who is on the go, and frankly, it allows us to accomplish our goal of attracting a younger customer."


The collection, called Fango Essenziali, consists of four mud masks and four sheet masks called, Moisturize, Purify, Calm and Energize, which aim to provide the stated effects. The masks are sold on Macy's Web site and will enter 150 Macy's doors May 1

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Nordstrom's Business Model

April 2016
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Nordstrom's Business Model

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April 2016

Nordstrom has released terrible outlook figures for 2016 sending shares plummeting. The news was followed by the announcement of 350 to 400 job cuts, mainly in its corporate centre and regional support teams. The problem is partly due to a sales slowdown at its regular-price stores. But management has also spoken about the costs of online. The e-commerce business, accounting for 20% of the total at Nordstrom, has a high variable cost structure driven by fulfilment and marketing costs, in addition to ongoing technology investments. Nordstrom, like other omnichannel department stores, has to maintain physical stores while taking on these costs related to the online business.

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Harrods and Isetan get exclusivity on collection

April 2016
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Harrods and Isetan get exclusivity on collection

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April 2016

Footwear and accessories brand Charlotte Olympia has teamed up with the activewear and lifestyle brand Bodyism to create a clothing and accessories collection.


The capsule comprises 10 ready-to-wear pieces, a gym bag and two pairs of sneakers. Looks include matching pairs of sports bras and leggings in leopard print, and a long-sleeved top and matching gym bag with the same "Kitty" face embroidery that feature on Olympia's ballerina flats. Prices range from 75 pounds, or $108, for a sports bra to 295 pounds, or $425, for the gym bag.


The collection launches in May, and one retail partner for each market has been chosen exclusively for the first month, before it rolls out internationally. Harrods will be carrying the range exclusively in the U.K., as will Shopbop.com in the U.S. Other retail partners include Stylerunner in Australia, Isetan in Japan and Rubaiyat in Saudi Arabia.

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LVMH signs Rihanna to create a makeup brand

April 2016
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LVMH signs Rihanna to create a makeup brand

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April 2016

The Kendo division of LVMH Moët Hennesy Louis Vuitton has landed a deal with Rihanna, one of the hottest-selling celebrities in the world of licensing, to do a complete makeup collection.


Kendo, which functions as an incubator producing products that end up being retailed by LVMH's Sephora perfumery chain and other outposts, will launch a Rihanna makeup range, called Fenty Beauty by Rihanna, in the fall of 2017.


While the company provided no other details, David Suliteanu, chief executive officer of Kendo, was in a celebratory mood. "Fenty Beauty by Rihanna is a beauty rocket ship that will appeal to a huge and diverse global audience," he said. "We are aiming for the stars."


Rihanna previously has collaborated in 2013 with MAC Cosmetics on a four-part, limited-edition RiRi Hearts MAC color cosmetics collection, and she also represented Viva Glam lipstick in 2014 to raise funds for AIDS research.


The Rihanna makeup brand will be the third major color cosmetics project that Kendo has undertaken, following those by Kat Von D Beauty and Marc Jacobs Beauty.

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House of Fraser returns to profit

April 2016
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House of Fraser returns to profit

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April 2016

House of Fraser has returned to profit for the first time in a decade after some strong sales and refinancing by its Chinese owners. The group achieved profits of £1.3 m in the year to end January compared to a loss of £2.9m the year before, as sales rose 4.2% to £1.3 billion. Online sales rose 27% to account for a fifth of the total. According to management, the online business has reached a scale where it is becoming more economic. The company will open its first overseas website in Australia before the summer. Stores will also be opened in China with the first in Nanjing this year and the second next year in Xuzhou.

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Hedi Slimane to exit Saint Laurent

April 2016
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Hedi Slimane to exit Saint Laurent

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April 2016

Hedi Slimane is departing Saint Laurent as creative director, its owner Kering confirmed. The announcement comes as the designer's contract with the fashion house expired this week and confirms rumours that have been circling the fashion industry. "What Yves Saint Laurent has achieved over the past four years represents a unique chapter in the history of the house," François-Henri Pinault, chairman and chief executive officer of Kering, said in a joint statement with Saint Laurent. "I am very grateful to Hedi Slimane, and the whole Yves Saint Laurent team, for having set the path that the house has successfully embraced, and which will grant longevity to this legendary brand."


As to where Slimane will go next, nothing has been disclosed, but his successor is widely rumoured to be Anthony Vaccarello, who is currently creative director of Versace's sister line Versus Versace and his eponymous label.


see press release

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Ikea tests « virtual kitchen experience »

April 2016
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Ikea tests « virtual kitchen experience »

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April 2016

Ikea is piloting a virtual reality application that enables consumers equipped with HTC Vive headsets to explore virtual kitchen environments.


The Ikea VR Experience app, developed in collaboration with French company Allegorithmic, lets consumers explore three life-size kitchen settings, giving them the flexibility to change cabinet and drawer colors. Users also may stretch or shrink themselves to approximate the perspective of an adult or child.


The app, launching on the Steam gaming platform, is designed to solicit consumer feedback on the possible implications of VR technology for the home. Ikea now joins the ranks of retailers using VR, but it's no newcomer to AR technology. The Swedish home furnishing giant in 2013 rolled out AR capabilities to its mobile app, allowing shoppers to virtually "place" furniture in their home to determine how an item might fit.

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Dsquared2 partners with Hudson's Bay on team Canada's 2016 Olympic Games Uniforms

April 2016
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Dsquared2 partners with Hudson's Bay on team Canada's 2016 Olympic Games Uniforms

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April 2016

Having a worldwide fashion brand on your home team certainly can't hurt, especially when the Olympics roll around. That's why Team Canada tapped the designers Dean and Dan Caten — the twin brothers behind the luxury brand Dsquared2— to create their uniforms for the 2016 Games this year in Rio, Brazil.


The duo partnered with the Canadian department store Hudson's Bay on the designs of the Olympic uniform, which will be worn by 315 athletes during the opening and closing ceremonies of the Games. It is described as "an innovative mash-up of two diverse worlds: tailoring and sport."


The 2016 "Team Canada Collection" features stylish and athletic shapes that are crafted around Canada's most distinct motif, the maple leaf. Recalling the "striking simplicity of early Canadian Olympic uniforms," the outfit's main attraction is a tailored blazer designed with a windbreaker material.


"The collection captures the strength of Canada, unifying performance, patriotism and style to create a look that is iconic, modern, and most of all, passionately Canadian," Team Canada noted.


The official Team Canada replica wear, priced from $19.99 to $150 for men's/women's clothing and outwear, will be available at all Hudson's Bay locations across Canada and online beginning May 4th.

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John Lewis launches 3RD Jlab

April 2016
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John Lewis launches 3RD Jlab

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April 2016

John Lewis department store is continuing its JLab initiative intended to help startups by getting them to compete for funding and mentoring to develop a product or service that will help shape the retail experience of the future. This year, the focus will be on health and convenience, and generally on entries that will help customers take care of themselves. Last year's winner said that John Lewis helped them reach the next level and become a global company in exchange for equity.

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Sogo & Seibu targets older women via new apparel production deals

April 2016
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Sogo & Seibu targets older women via new apparel production deals

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April 2016

Japan department store operator Sogo & Seibu has tied up with local and international apparel companies to develop a new womenswear collection for its customers aged 50-60.


Sogo & Seibu will expand its retail floors dedicated for more mature female customers, stocking womenswear exclusively co-developed with apparel companies or sourced overseas.


Some of the products include locally made silk skirts selling at ¥42,000 ($373) and hand-embroidered knitwear at $249, from partnerships including Sanyo Shokai, Sanei International and Bigi Co.


The new collections will launch at Seibu's Shibuya and Ikebukuro stores in Tokyo, and Sogo's Yokohama store, which have already expanded their store space for older women. Two more stores will be renovated for the addition this autumn.

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Lotte plans 60 shopping Malls in Vietnam

April 2016
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Lotte plans 60 shopping Malls in Vietnam

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April 2016

South Korean retail giant Lotte plans to increase the number of shopping malls it has in Vietnam by five times in the next four years, bringing the total store count to 60 by 2020.


A new shopping mall will open by the end of this month in Ho Chi Minh City. The company is also planning to launch its e-commerce channel for Vietnam by the end of the year.


The retail conglomerate is also a major investor in hospitality and real estate in Vietnam with an estimated current total investment of $3bn, including hotels, offices and movie theatres.

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Louis Vuitton picks Niteroi Museum for Cruise show

April 2016
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Louis Vuitton picks Niteroi Museum for Cruise show

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April 2016

When Nicolas Ghesquière touches down in Rio de Janeiro next month to stage Louis Vuitton's cruise show, it will be at a sleek building that resembles a flying saucer.


Vuitton's artistic director of women's collections has selected the Niterói Contemporary Art Museum — a landmark by celebrated Brazilian architect Oscar Niemeyer overlooking Guanabara Bay — as the venue for the May 28 event.


The museum, with its curvilinear shape and sweeping electric pink walkway, is just the latest in the brand's architectural coups. Last Resort season, Vuitton staged its show in Bob Hope's John Lautner–designed house in Palm Springs, California, a similarly futurist-minded building. Its main season shows take place in the Fondation Louis Vuitton, a Frank Gehry–designed wonder of glass and steel, often accented by elaborate sets designed by Es Devlin and artist Justin Morin.


According to Ghesquière, showing a collection in a groovy building is "about being transported into a relationship where nature, geography and architecture come together."


The increasingly itinerant fashion season is to begin on May 3 with a Chanel show in Havana, Cuba, while Dior chose Blenheim Palace for its May 31 display. Gucci is heading to London for its cruise showing on June 2 at Westminster Abbey.

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