What: Affluent Chinese shoppers have continued to drive luxury sales growth despite a weakening economic outlook.

Why it is important: Even during economic slowdowns, wealthy consumers are willing to pay a premium for unique and differentiated products and prioritize the in-store experience and personalized service that offline channels offer.

Same-store sales growth for luxury brands at China’s MixC shopping malls grew by 9% for the first five months of the year according to data from Bernstein. The top luxury and fashion retail operator in China aims to grow luxury sales at its 86 shopping malls by 28.5% in 2023.

Bernstein also noted that premium sportswear brands such as Lululemon and Arc’teryx are doing well in comparison to mass market players as the Chinese middle class cuts back on discretionary goods.

Data from MixC showed that a resurgence in offline shopping helped premium cosmetic brands offset losses in online sales. The category saw a 14.6% decrease in sales on the country’s major e-commerce platforms but grew around 50% from January to May.

Bernstein: China’s offline luxury consumption surpasses growth expectations

What: Tech has evolved and now offers new possibilities for in-store equipment.

Why it is important:  There are many options available, meaning that tough choices in terms of capital and resource allocation need to be done.

In the post-pandemic era, consumers expect brick-and-mortar stores to provide the conveniences found in e-commerce, shifting the focus of in-store technology from customer engagement features to infrastructure solutions.

Brands like Kate Spade and Rebecca Minkoff previously introduced interactive displays and digital mirrors for customer engagement, while current technology aims to solve problems like inventory management through RFID, as seen with Farfetch.

Retailers like Showfields aim to enhance the shopping experience by providing more information and discounts through an app. Reformation digitises the try-on process with touchscreen monitors.

However, implementing these technologies is not without challenges, as they need to integrate with existing systems and provide measurable value to retailers.

How brands can choose the right in-store technology 

What: Schiaparelli has opened a shop at Neiman Marcus Beverly Hills.

Why it is important: The luxury brand has an exclusive agreement with Neiman Marcus Group, allowing the brand to maintain its extremely limited distribution.

Schiaparelli only has five retail points of distribution, including three at which are operated by NMG and one inside Harrods.

The new boutique-atelier is a unique environment that allows customers to become immersed in the world of Schiaparelli. This is supported by Neiman’s understanding of the brand’s unique sense of exclusivity and creative expression.

The boutique was designed by Schiaparelli’s creative director, Daniel Roseberry in collaboration with architect Daniel Romualdez.

The store embodies the Schiaparelli aesthetic and features ready-to-wear, eveningwear, handbags, leather goods, jewellery, and accessories.

A rare Schiaparelli retail opening

What:  A US discount store doubles down on private labels in fresh food.

Why it is important:  Private labels are not the privilege of department stores anymore, and the pricepoint should not be their purpose. Instead, department stores should enhance their brand perception thanks to such labels.

Dollar General is expanding its private-label food offerings with a 100-item expansion of its Clover Valley brand.

The move is aimed at increasing food and beverage sales, which already account for 80% of the company's sales. The expansion includes a variety of new products, such as sauces, condiments, entrees, sides, and snacks. Dollar General is investing heavily in grocery, with plans to install more cooler doors and expand fresh produce offerings in its stores.

Despite challenges from reduced SNAP benefits and inflation, private-label brands continue to see sales growth, and Dollar General aims to differentiate itself in the market with its value offerings.

Dollar General expands its private label business 

What: H&M doubles down on a marketplace approach which differentiates it from Zara.

Why this is important: Beware of brands turning into retailers to attract more traffic.

Swedish fashion conglomerate H&M is planning to add more third-party brands to its stores and online platforms in an effort to attract a larger customer base.

This strategy, initiated last year, is in response to competition from retailers like Shein and Zalando. The company has already incorporated 70 external brands into its platform across six markets, a move that resulted in better-than-expected profits last quarter.

This approach differentiates H&M from Zara, which typically collaborates with other brands only for exclusive collections.

H&M adds more third-party brands online and instore to attract shoppers 

What: Inditex plans to expand its resale service and increase its use of next-generation and recycled materials in an effort to halve its emissions by 2030.

Why it is important: The ambitious moves come as the EU pushes to put an end to fast fashion.

The group is aiming for 40% of its materials to come from conventional recycling and 25% to come from new innovations by the end of the decade.

Inditex has already started to invest in the space, participating in textile recycler Circ’s series B funding round and also signing a EUR 100 million contract with a Finnish textile-to-textile recycling business.

The company has also added new targets to source 25% of its fabrics from regenerative or organic farms and the final 10% from sources certified have a lower impact. They also plan to introduce repair, resale, and takeback services to key markets and have a goal to protect, restore, and regenerate 5 million hectares of land by 2030.

Inditex has a goal to reach net-zero carbon emissions and has stepped up its plans to cut emissions in its supply chain with a goal of cutting its scope 3 emissions by 50% by 2030.

Last year, Inditex was responsible for emissions amounting roughly 18 million tons of carbon dioxide equivalent, more than H&M Group and Shein combined.

Since 2018, the company has succeeded in reducing its emissions by 7%.

Inditex ups sustainability commitments as regulators take aim at fast fashion

What: The LA-based retailer has partnered with Hear Me Raw, an indie skincare brand on a co-branded skincare collection.

Why it is important: The partnership is Fred Segal’s first co-branded exclusive beauty partnership.

The collection features four products that highlight the importance of natural ingredients and sustainability in skincare.

Fred Segal stated that they understand the growing significance of sustainable beauty and the demand for products that prioritise the well-being of individuals and the planet.

The partnership is also Hear Me Raw’s first entry into a retail destination, as the collection will be featured at Fred Segal’s Sunset Boulevard flagship as well as the Malibu and Studio City locations.

Fred Segal enters first co-branded beauty collab with Hear Me Raw

What: Hammerson announces H1 financial figures.

Why it is important: Hammerson maintains its operational activities and is on track for its cost reduction and disposal targets.

Hammerson’s revenues rose 8% despite having reported a net loss of the GBP 1.2 million in the last 6 months.

The company's performance in terms of footfall and like-for-like sales have remained strong, showing a promising 4% year-on-year increase. Additionally, leasing deals concluded in this period have contributed to a growth in headline rent, which reached GBP 18.3 million, marking a 13% rise.

The group portfolio value has fallen to GBP 4.7 billion from GBP 5.1 billion last year, but its values remained broadly stable.

Malls giant Hammerson reports “strong” first half

What: LVMH boasts impressive financials from H1 and lavishly invests billions in prime store locations.

Why it is important: LVMH manages major cash outflows and investment decisions to strengthen its position as the global leader in luxury goods.

The net profit of LVMH in the first half of the year jumped 30% to EUR 8.48 billion as the strong demand for luxury products In Europe and Asia fuelled growth in most segments. Recurring operations profit totalled EUR 11.57 billion which represented a 13% year-over-year.

Financial results of the company were in line with analysts’ forecasts such as Q2 group sales amounting to EUR 21.20 billion and the 21% increase in Fashion and Leather Goods’ organic sales. However, sales of wines and spirits fell during Q2 due to the worsening US economic environment, and luxury stocks fell after Richemont’s surprise report of declined revenue in the Americas.

The company reported an operative investments figure of EUR 3.6 billion from the first half of the year- EUR 1.6 billion of which was allocated to commercial real estate, including the major purchase on the Avenue des Champs-Elysées in Paris. The CFO labelled their purchases as opportunistic and an investment in obtaining key locations in Paris, London, NYC’s Fifth Avenue, and Rodeo Drive in Los Angeles.

There are plans to continue to invest in Tiffany & Co’s Fifth Avenue flagship store, the Landmark, which is understood to have cost hundreds of millions of dollars to refurbish. LVMH aims to redo most of the network of stores at Tiffany to boost the global image of the brand.

LVMH is confident and optimistic about the second half of the year despite dwindling U.S. sales due to the increasing sales in Asia and the excellent results of H1.

LVMH’s net profit rose 30 % over the first half of the year 

What: Altana company aims to use artificial intelligence to help fashion businesses manage their supply chain.

Why it is important: Altana will be able to regulate the fashion industry as it can compile billions of data points on how goods move through the global supply chain.

The company recently captured a multi-year deal with the U.S. Customs and Border Protection to block goods that could be made by Uighur forced labour in China’s Xinjiang region which happens to be the epicentre of cotton production in the country.

The purpose of Altana is to give customers transparency on the full value of goods as well as give businesses insights on how to structure their supply chain to take advantage of free-trade agreements, minimise tariffs, and manage risk.

Altana uses AI to collect a mix of public and private information from different languages and formats, analyse them, and derive relevant information to share with businesses.

The co-founder and chief executive, Evan Smith, envision the platform helping companies make international trade simpler by fast-tracking clearance of their imports after sharing their data with CBP.

The goal is to include fashion companies and other smaller firms on the platform.

Will AI finally bring visibility to fashion’s supply chain?

What: Riots over the police killing of a teenager in France spread to central Paris leading to the looting of stores on the rue de Rivoli and in the Westfield Forum des Halles mall. Many other cities also saw major riots.

Why it is important: The Galeries Lafayette stores (Haussmann, Grenoble and Lyon Bron) were also targeted.

The violence echoes the "yellow vest" demonstrations of 2018 and 2019, which also resulted in looting and property damage, and negatively affected tourism and retail spending.

In France, riots spread and protesters spill into shopping areas 

What: A discussion of the fundamentals of nearshoring and its future in the apparel industry

Why it is important: The industry trend will decrease the supply chain risk and increase efforts in sustainable practices.

Nearshoring, the manufacturing of apparel in Canada, the US, Mexico, and Central America, is proven to be a favourable strategic plan for many companies. In addition to sustainability, the Covid-19 pandemic revealed flaws in the supply chain because of inventory being stranded on the other side of the world and the need for proximity.

There has been USD 2 billion of new investment in the United States and Central America significantly in the production of yarn, fabric, textiles, and apparel products. The “yarn forward” rule indicates that if a garment is produced in one of the included NAFTA countries, for example, Guatemala, then the yarn, fabric, cutting, and sewing also needs to happen in the region. The rules of origin will drive investments as close-by suppliers are appealing to brands and retailers.

There are still many businesses that benefit from trade agreement loopholes such as the “de minimis” rule where brands and retailers outside the North American region can sell and ship directly to customers without paying tariffs on items that cost less than USD 800.

Consumer preferences are a nudge for companies to evaluate their sourcing decisions and evade the risk of supply chain disruptions, human rights concerns, and environmental awareness.

Nearshoring: Driving sustainable growth 

What: Luxury hotel chain Aman is developing even further their cosmetics line, sold both in their premises but also in prime retail locations.

Why it is important: It is all about branding: the differentiation between industries is increasingly blurring. This news is exactly the opposite echo to Selfridges having plans to open an hotel.

Luxury hotel group Aman is expanding its lifestyle product line, Aman Essentials, which began in 2018 with Aman Skincare. According to Aman Essentials CEO Kristina Romanova, this venture was sparked by customer feedback about their experiences with Aman amenities. The positive response and subsequent sales led the company to view Aman Essentials as a standalone business.

The brand now encompasses home fragrances, fine fragrances, ready-to-wear clothing, supplements, skincare, yoga accessories, and other lifestyle goods, ranging in price from $65 to $4,460. Aman Essentials is also expanding its retail distribution, branching out from selling exclusively at Aman properties to third-party retailers around the globe.

The company has been opening concessions at Harrods, Beautyaholic in Rome, LuisaViaRoma, Violet Grey in the U.S., and Neiman Marcus. This retail expansion is attracting a new customer base and broadening the brand's exposure, particularly to younger consumers.

While the majority of sales still come from on-site boutiques, the direct-to-consumer business is growing. Aman Essentials reported nearly 200% year-over-year growth in 2022 and is on target for 170% year-over-year growth in 2023.

Future products in the pipeline include a kidswear collection and skincare additions, always reflecting aspects of the Aman lifestyle. Aman is also expanding their offering in popular categories like yoga accessories and fine fragrances, following their customers' preferences.

Hospitality group Aman goes retail 

What: The social media platform launched its first-ever brick-and-mortar pop-up in London.

Why it is important: The physical retail space is an extension of TikTok’s Shop feature where merchants can sell products directly to their followers and be discovered.

The space is centered around community commerce and focuses on tech, home and living, and book product categories.

Merchants had the opportunity to meet experts behind the app to learn more about social selling and tap into online trends. They were also able to host live streams from the venue.

TikTok has created a new era of social commerce as one video can quickly go viral and create demand and opportunity.

TikTok opened first physical pop-up on Oxford Street

What: Hyundai becomes the operator for Disney in Korea.

Why it is important:  Could Disney stores be new partners for department stores in the world?

Hyundai Department Store Co. announced it will open the first official Disney store in South Korea, located in Pangyo, just south of Seoul.

The store will offer around 300 types of official Disney products previously unavailable in the country, featuring items related to Mickey Mouse, Disney princesses, and characters from "Toy Story", among others. The product list will expand as the Pangyo store launches new products in collaboration with overseas Disney stores.

In addition to this store, Hyundai plans to open three more Disney stores in 2023 and aims to operate up to 10 stores by the end of the following year.

In Korea, Hyundai teams up with Disney 

What: Selfridges opens a pop-up where customers can bring back unwanted garments and get credits for them.

Why it is important: The department store has pledged to achieve 40% of its turnover through the 4 R (resale, recycle, rent, reuse) within 2030. They need to find the right economic equation to make sure this is profitable.

Selfridges is partnering with circular fashion platform Loanhood to launch 'Swap Shop,' a concept allowing customers to exchange pre-owned clothing for other secondhand items.

The initiative, which will run from July 10 to 30, is part of Selfridges' broader sustainability effort, 'Worn Again,' promoting secondhand and circular shopping experiences. In addition, 'Thursday Lates' events will feature workshops, shopping, and entertainment, with all proceeds going to Oxfam.

Selfridges to host “swap shop” concept 

What: Sneaker resale platform, The Edit Ldn, is introducing a sneaker display in Harrods.

Why it is important: The exhibition will showcase rare and collectable sneakers as well as offer the visitors a chance to purchase them.

The exhibit, named the Sneaker Grails Exhibition, will display rare and exclusive sneakers from around the globe. The aim is to show the harmony between high fashion, streetwear, and sneaker culture.

The items will be available for purchase as collective art pieces with the rarest pair priced at GBP 60,000. The collection will include Nike Air Jordan 1 1985, Nike Air Jordan 4 Travis Scott Purple Friends & Family, Nike Air Yeezy 2 SP Red October; Nike Air Yeezy 2 NRG Solar Red, and the 1984 Air Ship.

Members of the Edit Ldn team will also be present to educate visitors on the items.

The Edit Ldn links with Harrods for sneaker exhibition 

What: The luxury multi-brand retailer has announced the launch of a partnership with the luxury hospitality group on a series of retail pop-ups and activations.

Why it is important: The Webster is expanding its physical footprint to go where its clients go and meet the needs of their lifestyles.

The Webster and Rosewood Hotels share a vision of inspiring guests to discover personal retail experiences.

The retailer showcases a significant curation of products, focusing on providing a breadth of menswear that isn’t currently available at its permanent location and a highly tailored section of women’s ready-to-wear, footwear, and bags.

The Webster has also collaborated with a California-based brand, Nahmias, to create nine-piece capsule collection to celebrate the launch of The Rosewood partnership.

The partnership series will kick off at the end of July in California and continue throughout different Rosewood Hotels across the US with the partnership continuing in Paris at Hotel de Crillon.

The Webster announces exclusive pop-up partnership with Rosewood Hotels

What:  Decathlon is simplifying its private brand portfolio by having its more established brands absorb recent labels.

Why it is important: The company wants to improve its customer shopping experience with a more streamlined range of private brands to choose from.

Decathlon aims to reduce its numerous brands to only 12 flagship labels such as Quechua, Domyos, Tribord, Inesis, and Kipsta.  This is in an attempt to optimize storefronts and support sustainable practices.

With a more comprehensible and tailored product selection, the store strives to improve the customer experiences all while preserving the style options.

 Decathlon is moving towards streamlining its multiple private brands 

What: H&M is trialling its new Keep-The-Presence concept for the first time globally in the UK and Ireland.

Why it is important: The concept enables the brand to maintain its physical presence to serve local customers and keep high streets thriving.

The concept features new temporary store fit-outs being created at the front of stores while the wider unit undergoes renovations.

Customers can shop curated capsule collections through the pop-up style areas and utilize in-store services such as Click and Collect lockers. A dedicated online activation area and bespoke H&M members’ offers are also available during the trial.

The retailer is optimistic that its new concept will contribute towards keeping busy retail destinations thriving while its stores undergo renovations to provide the best possible customer experience.

H&M tests new concept store in UK to retain presence during refurbs

What: Selfridges releases a loyalty scheme that offers customers free shipping, first access to events, charitable donations, and exclusive experiences.

Why it is important: The Selfridges Unlocked scheme will give customers a variety of benefits as well as give back to the community.

The luxury department store, Selfridges, has released a loyalty program, in which holders will gain perks such as free shipping over GBP 150 and first access to events, services, and product launches. The company also vows to donate to Centrepoint on behalf of customers after each purchase. Customers can opt-in to receive a Selfridges Key QR code to be placed in their digital wallet for use in-store and online. The London department store also announced its Swap Shop in which customers will be able to exchange their unwanted clothing for stamps that can then be traded for pre-loved clothing- this is in partnership with the fashion rental firm, Loanhood.

Selfridges unveils new ‘Unlocked’ membership scheme 

What: Shopify consolidates its position of DYI website enabler, through easy to add software bricks, and now, content creation.

Why it is important: E-commerce website owners and operators will have an easier access to content and design creation, which might help the emergence of new designs and approaches to selling online.

Shopify has launched a free application called "Collabs Network" for merchants to connect with content creators and influencers to build sales and customer acquisition.

This expansion of the Shopify Collabs app, launched in 2022, allows creators to partner directly with Shopify merchants, obtain an affiliate link, and promote products without the need for individual partnerships often managed by middlemen or agencies. Creators can search and categorize products, identify brands favored by their followers, and earn high commissions on sales.

This comes in response to a booming creator economy, estimated to be worth over USD 100 billion. Merchants maintain control over who promotes their products and benefit from reduced customer acquisition costs.

Shopify launches a tool helping content creators 

What: Harvey Nichols CEO shows concern about decreasing number of internal shoppers due to the lack of tax-free shopping for tourists.

Why it is important: Tourists are spending less time and money in the UK and are favouring Paris and Milan

The CEO, Manju Malhotra, expresses that businesses in the UK rely on international visitors and that the government needs to prioritise this before an election.

There have been multiple calls from the fashion industry for the reinstatement of the tax-free shopping for tourists that ended when the UK left the EU in 2020. Parliament is to debate the topic on September 7th.

Harvey Nichols CEO calls for return of tax-free shopping for tourists

What: Saudi Arabia’s Public Investment Fund has been identified as the sponsor of the GBP 4 billion takeover of the Selfridges department store.

Why it is important: The investment in Selfridges is part of the Saudi PIF’s expanding portfolio of UK investments.

The fund was able to acquire an interest in Selfridges through Signa Holdings and outbid the Qatari sovereign wealth fund that owns Harrods.  The PIF is part of the country’s Vision 2030 initiative to ease its economy away from the reliance on its energy sector.

Saudi Arabia’s PIF revealed as backer of the GPB 4 billion Selfridges takeover