What: Vogue Business finds that mid and plus-size looks made up 2.5% of the 9,283 looks shown across the New York, London, Milan and Paris Spring/Summer 2027 runways, down from 5.1% in FW25.

Why it is important: Only 17% of consumers feel brands show a variety of sizes, while 67% are more likely to buy from those that do, and a narrowing runway leaves that gap open.

Vogue Business analysed 9,283 looks across 219 shows and presentations in New York, London, Milan and Paris. Straight sizes (US 0-4) made up 97.5%, mid-size (US 6-12) 2% and plus-size (US 14+) 0.5%. Total curve representation of 2.5% is up 0.2 points on FW26 but down from 5.1% in FW25. The publication links the decline to GLP-1 discourse and a return to ultra-slim aesthetics.

By city, London was the most inclusive, with Chopova Lowena topping the season's leaderboard at 37.8% mid-size looks, while Milan was the lowest, with 99.5% of looks straight-size. A review of brands' websites found 24.6% of New York brands stop at US 14, and no London brand offers above US 20. Ester Manas reports larger sizes as bestsellers, and Marco Rambaldi gets about 10% of direct-to-consumer sales from plus-size customers.

Vogue Business's 2025 survey found 67% of consumers more likely to buy from brands showing varied sizes, but only 17% feel represented. Milk Model Management estimates it has lost 40% of curve work in recent years.

IADS Notes: Coresight listed extended sizing among the inclusivity trends US department stores should adopt (Coresight, October 2023), and Le Bon Marché's Maison Rive Gauche capsule offered sizes from French 34 to 50 (WWD, December 2024). Coverage since then has centred on weight-loss drugs. Forbes reported rising demand for smaller sizes and falling sales of larger ones, with up to $5 billion in margin losses possible by 2027 for US fashion retailers that do not realign their size curves (Forbes, September 2025). In May 2026, BoF described brands overhauling sizing, fit models and inventory as body shapes change (BoF, May 2026), while the Financial Times reported a shift in demand toward smaller apparel sizes that is forcing retailers to rework inventory strategy (Financial Times, May 2026).

Spring/Summer 2027 Size Inclusivity Report