News
Your pricing algorithm may have stopped competing without your knowledge
Your pricing algorithm may have stopped competing without your knowledge
What: Independently deployed pricing algorithms can tacitly coordinate to keep prices above competitive levels, leaving the deploying company exposed even where antitrust law cannot reach.
Why it is important: Tacit algorithmic coordination leaves none of the visible traces that have so far drawn regulatory and consumer backlash, making behavioural audits of pricing systems a board-level responsibility.
In a Fortune column, François Candelon, Paul-Louis Andres and Augustin Manchon argue that pricing algorithms can sustain above-competitive prices while leaving none of the evidence antitrust enforcement relies on. After automated pricing spread among German gas stations in 2017, margins rose by about 38% in markets where two competing stations adopted it, and did not move where only one did. Experiments published in 2020 had already shown reinforcement-learning algorithms learning to price above competitive levels and to retaliate against price cuts.
The authors identify three patterns. In the "hub", competitors feed data into a shared provider, as in the RealPage case, where a proposed November 2025 DOJ settlement would restrict the data the software may use. In the "mirror", one firm predicts rivals' reactions, as the FTC alleges of Amazon's Project Nessie, which Amazon disputes. The "ghost", in which independent systems reach the same truce independently, is the hardest to detect or prosecute.
Because coordinated and competitive markets produce the same figures, the authors urge boards to map which systems can observe competitor prices, audit behaviour rather than results alone, run counterfactual tests that remove competitor signals, and document an auditable mandate for every pricing system.
IADS Notes: Regulatory attention to algorithmic pricing in retail has so far concentrated on conduct that is visible from the outside. The price-fixing allegations against Amazon involving Walmart and Home Depot (Bloomberg, April 2026) brought algorithmic pricing into antitrust scrutiny of market leaders, while New York's disclosure law and the industry's legal challenges against it pushed retailers to reassess data use and risk management (Forbes, February 2026). Adoption is nonetheless accelerating: Walmart's patents for machine-learning pricing systems, linked to electronic shelf labels across 4,600 US stores, coincided with state proposals to ban dynamic pricing (Financial Times, March 2026), and consumer backlash against opaque, continuously changing prices has made reputational damage a greater risk than forgone margin (The Robin Report, June 2026). In each of these cases, shoppers or regulators can see the harm. The tacit coordination described in this article produces no such signal, which moves the burden onto internal governance; an AI system registry, risk tiers and bounded autonomy (Harvard Business Review, July 2026) map closely onto the behavioural audits and auditable mandates the authors recommend.
Your pricing algorithm may have stopped competing without your knowledge
How is Macy's pulling itself out of its spiral of decline?
How is Macy's pulling itself out of its spiral of decline?
What: Macy's Inc. posted its fifth consecutive quarter of comparable-sales growth in Q2 2026, with Bloomingdale's and Bluemercury outperforming the namesake stores, and raised its full-year outlook.
Why it is important: Macy's split performance illustrates a broader industry pattern: sustained demand rewards banners with genuine investment in merchandise and experience, while the value-oriented core still needs to prove it can compete on more than legacy scale.
Macy's Inc. reported fiscal second-quarter 2026 sales of $4.9 billion, with comparable sales rising 2.7 per cent and adjusted EBITDA increasing from $373 million to $457 million. Growth extended across the portfolio, led by Bloomingdale's, which posted its highest-ever second-quarter sales volume, while Bluemercury and the 200 Reimagine store remodels continued to outperform the wider Macy's chain.
CEO Tony Spring attributed the results to the company's "Bold New Chapter" strategy, and Macy's raised its fiscal 2026 net sales guidance to between $21.675 billion and $21.825 billion, above the previous forecast and consensus estimates.
Analysts described the results as evidence the company has moved past its long decline. GlobalData's Neil Saunders called the improvement in customer satisfaction, cross-shopping and share of wallet undeniable proof the "spiral of decline" is over, while noting more work remains, including on profitability. Other commentators flagged that $96 million of the tariff refund contributed to the quarter, that Bloomingdale's and Bluemercury's luxury playbook has not yet fully translated to the namesake brand, and that the 1.9 per cent comparable-sales growth at Macy's core stores is "proof of concept, not a victory lap."
IADS Notes: Macy's Inc.'s official second-quarter results (Press Release, September 2026) confirm the comparable-sales growth and raised guidance now being read as evidence of a durable turnaround. That reading had already taken hold earlier in the year: renewed investor confidence built through the spring, with TD Cowen raising its price target and Berkshire Hathaway purchasing more than 3 million shares following the group's strongest first quarter in four years (WWD, June 2026). That first-quarter momentum was itself driven by double-digit comparable-sales growth at Bloomingdale's and Bluemercury, against a broader K-shaped consumer pattern in which higher-income shoppers kept spending while lower-income households pulled back (Reuters, June 2026). The consistency of this trajectory across consecutive quarters supports the analysts' reading that Macy's has moved past a one-off recovery, even as the gap between the luxury-format banners and the namesake stores remains the open question going into the second half of the year.
How is Macy's pulling itself out of its spiral of decline?
De Bijenkorf customer data exposed in cyberattack
De Bijenkorf customer data exposed in cyberattack
What: Bijenkorf disclosed that a cyberattack on its logistics partner CEVA compromised customer personal data, prompting the department store to warn shoppers of heightened phishing risk.
Why it is important: The incident illustrates how a shared logistics vendor can become a single point of failure across multiple retail platforms, a third-party risk pattern already flagged as a growing share of retail cyber incidents.
CEVA Logistics, which handles logistics operations for both Bijenkorf and bol.com, suffered a cyberattack on 1 August. Bijenkorf confirmed on Thursday that the personal data of its customers had been compromised, including names, addresses, phone numbers and email addresses, together with descriptions of the payment method used, such as iDEAL or Wero. Financial details such as bank account numbers or card data, as well as login credentials, were not affected, since CEVA does not hold that information.
Both Bijenkorf and bol.com notified the Dutch Data Protection Authority immediately after the incident. The breach caused significant delays to orders, returns and refunds.
Because the exposed data increases the risk of convincing phishing attempts, Bijenkorf has urged customers to stay alert. It noted that genuine company emails are sent only from a specific verified address and always include an order number, and that it will never ask customers to make a repeat payment, change their password, or share payment details through a link.
CEVA has confirmed that remedial measures have since been taken, while bol.com says it has no additional findings beyond what it already communicated to its customers.
IADS Notes: The financial and reputational scale of retail data incidents was underscored when Coupang was hit with a record $409 million penalty (Inside Retail, June 2026) following a breach of over 33 million customer records, a case that also intensified regulatory pressure and calls for stronger governance. Retailers' own exposure to third-party and vendor-related incidents was similarly evident when Nike disclosed a possible data compromise (Reuters, January 2026), in a period when such breaches were already flagged as a growing share of retail cyber incidents. Payment infrastructure specifically has come under attack, with a skimming network found targeting global payment providers across e-commerce sites (TechNadu, January 2026), while the phishing risk that typically follows such exposures was detailed in an analysis of QR-code-based attacks on retail customers (RH-ISAC, February 2026), which linked rising phishing campaigns directly to prior data breaches.
De Bijenkorf customer data exposed in cyberattack
Custodians of heritage and culture — Fenwick's Leo Fenwick on stewarding the next generation
Custodians of heritage and culture — Fenwick's Leo Fenwick on stewarding the next generation
What: Fenwick's Strategic Partnerships Director Leo Fenwick discusses the family-owned retailer's continued transformation, from a new beauty hall and loyalty programme to expanded hospitality and homeware.
Why it is important: Fenwick's evolution shows how a still family-owned department store is applying the same levers now defining sector-wide turnarounds — loyalty data, beauty investment, and hospitality — while retaining the governance freedom that peers like Von Maur credit for their resilience.
Founded by John James Fenwick in 1882, the retailer operates eight sites across the UK plus an online store, with Newcastle remaining its flagship and cultural anchor. Significant recent investment has gone into a new beauty hall there, alongside a beauty edit reoriented around K-beauty and beauty innovation. The MyFenwick loyalty programme, launched in September 2025, already counts hundreds of thousands of members and is built around service and hospitality rather than discounting, supported by a newly implemented CRM system. The fashion offer is evolving toward more contemporary, accessible brands, while homeware is being expanded with Neptune launching soon in Newcastle. Local partnerships, including Barbour and a Newcastle United club shop, sit alongside the returning Mercury Awards collaboration and ongoing cultural crossovers in music, art and fashion. Hospitality is also expanding, with cafés, restaurants, cocktail bars and the family-oriented Hopscotch space positioning the store as a multi-generational destination. Digital and physical channels are being unified so customers get a consistent experience regardless of platform. Leo Fenwick frames the company's task as balancing innovation with stewardship, ensuring Fenwick remains well positioned for the next generation while anchoring its communities.
IADS Notes: Fenwick's own trajectory bears this out: the retailer cut its full-year operating loss by 40% in the first year of a three-year transformation, a result attributed to omnichannel infrastructure, unified CRM and the MyFenwick loyalty scheme (Retail Week, August 2026), building on the programme's original September 2025 launch, which was framed at the time as a shift toward tiered, experiential rewards over transactional points (Drapers, September 2025). The beauty-hall investment described in the interview sits within a broader UK pattern of department stores expanding beauty as a footfall and margin driver outside their capital-city flagships, as seen in Selfridges' Birmingham reopening (Retail Week, October 2025). The hospitality push mirrors a comparable move at John Lewis, where an owned, vertically integrated dining concept now drives more than a fifth of in-store transactions across an £800m investment programme (Press Release, August 2026). And the family-ownership framing running through the interview has a direct US analogue in Von Maur, where private ownership is credited with the curatorial agility and long-term investment horizon that has let the retailer expand while listed peers retrench (Modern Retail, October 2025).
Custodians of Heritage and Culture — Fenwick's Leo Fenwick on stewarding the next generation
Debenhams completes sale of Sheffield distribution centre to Primark
Debenhams completes sale of Sheffield distribution centre to Primark
What: Debenhams has sold the automation and reassigned the lease of its Sheffield distribution centre to Primark for £90m, cutting depreciation, interest and lease costs.
Why it is important: It shows how a recovering legacy retailer can monetise physical infrastructure to fund a shift toward marketplace and third-party fulfilment models.
Debenhams Group has completed the sale of its Sheffield distribution centre's automation and the reassignment of its lease to Primark for £90m, with £76.5m received on completion and the remaining £13.5m due on vacant possession next year. The retailer is entering an agreement with a global third-party logistics provider to maintain current fulfilment efficiency while scaling its "Delivered by Debenhams" proposition beyond fashion.
As a result of the transaction, Debenhams expects annual depreciation to fall by around £12m, interest costs to reduce by at least £10m, and cash lease costs to drop by roughly £4m. The group also reported that gross merchandise value growth accelerated in the second quarter, having returned to growth in the first.
Group chief executive Dan Finley said the turnaround "continues at pace," adding that net debt is now expected to be negligible by the financial year-end (February 2027) as a result of the disposal.
IADS Notes: The Sheffield transaction extends a turnaround narrative that has been building for months. Debenhams' shift toward an asset-lite, marketplace-led model was already flagged as the driver of improving profitability and lower cash costs by Fashion Network in March 2026, while Retail Week reported in early June 2026 that the group had returned to growth following strong May trading, and later that same month that every brand had turned profitable after restructuring and warehouse consolidation. Reuters coverage from July 2026 confirmed that sustained GMV growth and improving margins were putting the group on track for materially lower net debt, aided by the sale of non-core property assets — the same dynamic now completed through the Sheffield disposal. On the Primark side, the Financial Times in November 2025 noted Associated British Foods' proposed demerger of Primark from its food business, a structural move aimed at sharpening focus and unlocking value; the Sheffield acquisition fits that broader pattern of Primark continuing to invest in its physical footprint even as its ownership structure is reassessed.
Debenhams completes sale of Sheffield distribution centre to Primark
Liverpool brings Primark to Mexico
Liverpool brings Primark to Mexico
What: El Puerto de Liverpool has partnered with Primark to bring the Irish value-fashion retailer to Mexico under a franchise model, building on Liverpool's new brand-licensing entity.
Why it is important: It extends Liverpool's pivot from pure retailer to brand-licensing platform, following its Glam division's takeover of Dockers' Mexican distribution, and signals more third-party brand partnerships to come.
Primark plans to open its first stores in Mexico through a franchise partnership with El Puerto de Liverpool, one of the country's largest retail groups. The Dublin-based value-fashion retailer, which already operates more than 500 stores across 19 markets including 44 in the US, will rely on Liverpool's local market knowledge and operational capabilities to enter a market long dominated by Walmart and international fast-fashion players such as H&M, Zara and Uniqlo. Eoin Tonge, Primark's chief executive, said the retailer's mix of quality, style and affordability should resonate with Mexican consumers, while Enrique Güijosa, Liverpool's chief executive, framed the deal as building a foundation for long-term growth.
Liverpool operates 125 department stores, 72 Liverpool Express stores, 196 Suburbia stores, 173 specialty boutiques and 30 shopping centers, and is one of Mexico's leading credit card issuers, with more than 8.8 million cardholders and over half of sales made through its own payment methods. Locations, store openings and the pace of expansion will be defined jointly as the partnership develops, with further details to follow. Primark's only other franchised stores operate in the Middle East, through the Alshaya Group.
IADS Notes: Liverpool's move to bring Primark into Mexico builds directly on the wholesale and brand-management infrastructure the group has assembled over the past year. Its Glam division, created to take over Dockers' distribution in Mexico, was explicitly designed to extend to further international brands and to position Liverpool as a partner for global retailers seeking market entry (Modaes, March 2026). The model echoes Chalhoub Group's recent partnership with Gap Inc., under which the Dubai-based operator will run a phased, omnichannel rollout of Gap, Banana Republic and Athleta across the Middle East (WWD, August 2026), underlining how large regional conglomerates are increasingly becoming the entry vehicle of choice for global apparel brands. For Primark, the franchise route itself is a familiar one: its only prior franchised stores are in the Middle East, run with the Alshaya Group, an arrangement that has underpinned openings in the UAE where its low-price, high-volume format has resonated strongly with local shoppers despite broader economic uncertainty (Forbes, March 2026). The Mexico deal also comes as Primark pursues international growth more broadly, including franchise opportunities in the Gulf and the US, at a time when parent company Associated British Foods has faced a cool reception to plans for a Primark demerger (Financial Times, November 2025). Liverpool, for its part, brings a century-plus history of retail modernisation and international alliances — from its founding as a fabric importer to its acquisition of Suburbia and its stake in Nordstrom — that has positioned it among the few Mexican retailers with the scale and market knowledge to de-risk a foreign brand's entry (Modaes, January 2026).
Liverpool brings Primark to Mexico
Liberty links with British Museum for Bayeux Tapestry products
Liberty links with British Museum for Bayeux Tapestry products
What: Liberty has partnered with the British Museum to launch a Bayeux Tapestry-inspired product collection, timed to coincide with the museum's landmark London exhibition.
Why it is important: The collaboration shows how department stores can turn a blockbuster museum exhibition into a full retail moment rather than a marketing tie-in, echoing Harrods' own exhibition-timed activation with the V&A.
Liberty has partnered with the British Museum to launch a Bayeux Tapestry-themed product collection from 10 September, timed to coincide with the landmark London exhibition dedicated to the medieval artefact. Created in 1066 to record the Norman victory at the Battle of Hastings, the tapestry's scenes have been reworked and hand-drawn in stylised lines intended to reflect the movement and storytelling of the original within a contemporary composition. Distinctive motifs are reimagined across textiles, fashion and home accessories, presented in Liberty's signature Tana Lawn cotton alongside silk scarves, handkerchiefs, a totebag and fringed cushions.
The design team worked directly with Michael Lewis, the exhibition's lead curator, to select key motifs and pair them with newly developed elements inspired by the tapestry's original structure, including a border detail featuring commemorative text. The palette translates the artefact's own colours into the collection: ochre gold, parchment cream, moss and forest green, deep ink and rich reds.
IADS Notes: Liberty's Bayeux Tapestry collection with the British Museum extends a pattern of department stores using major museum exhibitions as launch platforms rather than incidental backdrops, echoed by Harrods' window tribute to the V&A's Schiaparelli exhibition (Fashion Network, April 2026) and the wider shift of department stores into cultural destinations through institutional partnerships such as Galeries Lafayette's work with the Centre Pompidou-Metz (Le Figaro, March 2026). Routing the tapestry's motifs through Liberty's own Tana Lawn cotton mirrors the retailer's broader practice of channelling heritage and craftsmanship into differentiated categories, most recently visible in its more-than-doubled dressmaking fabrics department built around exclusive prints and specialist expertise (Fashion Network, July 2026). Building a full accessories and textile range around one artefact's visual language also fits a pattern of single cultural references anchoring multi-product capsules, as seen in Samaritaine's extension of JR's Pont Neuf installation into a dedicated in-store retail concept (WWD, June 2026) and Boyner's ongoing artist-collaboration tote bag series, now in its fifth iteration (Press Release, June 2026).
Liberty links with British Museum for Bayeux Tapestry products
Bergdorf Goodman turns 125 and celebrates
Bergdorf Goodman turns 125 and celebrates
What: To celebrate 125 years in business, Bergdorf Goodman has partnered with over 100 designers on more than 850 exclusive styles, alongside anniversary windows, exhibits and a new Assouline book chronicling its history.
Why it is important: The anniversary arrives as parent company Exemplar Luxury Group works to rebuild prestige and vendor relationships after emerging from bankruptcy, making heritage storytelling a tool for restoring confidence.
Bergdorf Goodman's 125th-anniversary celebration began Wednesday night with a store party and continues through the fall season, touching every part of the retailer's business. President Tracy Margolies said the milestone is being brought to life through exclusive products, collaborations and experiences across the store, while senior vice president Linda Fargo credited brand partners' creativity in interpreting the anniversary. Fifth Avenue windows across the women's and men's stores are filled with historical imagery set against Bergdorf's signature lavender, and Assouline has published "Very Bergdorf," with an introduction by Wendy Goodman, alongside filmed interviews with figures including Kate Young, Candice Bergen and Michael Kors.
Designers describe the store as a career-defining platform: Michael Kors recalled selling his first collection to Bergdorf in 1981, Akris's Albert Kriemler cited its 1988 window debut, and Christopher John Rogers and Schiaparelli's Daniel Roseberry credited early support in building their brands. Founded in 1901 and rebuilt on Fifth Avenue in 1928, Bergdorf Goodman has passed through Carter Hawley Hale, the Neiman Marcus Group and, following Saks Global's 2026 bankruptcy, the newly formed Exemplar Luxury Group, which now owns Bergdorf, Saks Fifth Avenue and Neiman Marcus.
IADS Notes: Bergdorf Goodman's 125th-anniversary programme sits within a broader pattern of milestone celebrations used by department stores to reinforce loyalty and brand identity, as seen when Nordstrom marked its own 125th anniversary with a yearlong series of exclusive brand activations and archival collections (Press Release, February 2026). The timing is notable given Exemplar Luxury Group's ongoing post-bankruptcy recovery, where restoring exclusives, vendor allocations and customer trust across Saks, Neiman Marcus and Bergdorf Goodman was identified as the central challenge (WWD, September 2026). Bergdorf's reliance on more than 100 brand partnerships and rare collectors' pieces echoes a wider sector shift toward designer curation as a differentiator, illustrated by Printemps' relaunch of its L'Endroit space with nearly 30 brands, 70% exclusive, to counter consumer fatigue with "normalised luxury" (WWD, June 2026). The emphasis on windows, exhibits and in-store storytelling also mirrors how flagship transformation has become a growth lever elsewhere, from Bloomingdale's redesigned 59th Street store, credited with five consecutive quarters of sales growth (WWD, March 2026), to Breuninger's 145th-anniversary partnership with VOGUE Germany, which turned its Stuttgart flagship into an experiential fashion stage with a limited-edition capsule collection (N-News.de, March 2026).
Bergdorf Goodman turns 125 and celebrates
India's organised apparel retail revenue to grow 12-13% in FY27, margins may shrink
India's organised apparel retail revenue to grow 12-13% in FY27, margins may shrink
What: India's organised apparel retail revenue is projected to grow 12-13% in FY27, with operating margins compressing to around 14% amid rising cotton prices and cost pressures.
Why it is important: With value fashion now driving 46% of sector revenue and store expansion increasingly focused on smaller cities, the report confirms that India's organised apparel retail growth model is shifting from densification of large cities to breadth of geographic reach.
Crisil Ratings' analysis of 41 organised apparel retailers, representing around 28% of the sector, projects revenue growth of 12-13% this fiscal, down from 15% last fiscal, as consumers diversify discretionary spending beyond apparel. Growth will be supported by continued traction in value fashion, expansion of organised retail beyond large cities, and sustained demand for branded apparel.
Rising cotton prices and elevated operating costs are expected to be only partially passed through due to high competitive intensity, compressing operating margins by roughly 100 basis points to ~14% this fiscal. Credit profiles should nonetheless remain stable, as retailers are pursuing calibrated expansion in larger cities and lower-capital-outlay growth in smaller ones.
Value-fashion and mid-premium segments, priced mostly below Rs 2,500, now account for roughly two-thirds of sector revenue, with value fashion's share climbing to 46% from 39% over the past three fiscals. The festive season, which typically drives around 35% of annual apparel sales, will be a key test of whether the 12-13% growth projection holds, following high-single-digit revenue growth between April and August 2026.
IADS Notes: Crisil's projection of 12-13% revenue growth for organised apparel retail in FY27 builds on a trend already well documented: the shift toward value fashion as the sector's primary growth engine. This dynamic was captured in detail by Financial Times in July 2026, which described how Tata-owned Zudio is converting price-conscious shoppers from informal bazaars into organised retail through ultra-low prices and rapid product cycles, a model now scaling toward thousands of additional stores. The financing behind this expansion was outlined by India Economic Times the same month, which reported that Trent, More Retail and Avenue Supermarts together raised or announced more than Rs 4,000 crore to fund the fastest pace of store expansion in four years. That expansion is increasingly directed at smaller cities rather than further densification of major metros, as India Economic Times noted in a separate July 2026 piece, which found that India's ten largest listed retailers added a net 2,182 stores in FY26 even as same-store sales growth stayed modest — evidence that scale, not same-store productivity, is the current growth lever. Trent's own results, covered by India Economic Times in August 2026, illustrate the margin dynamics at play: 21% profit growth and 18% revenue growth alongside a 16% rise in total expenses tied to stock purchases, rent and store-base growth — the same cost pressures Crisil now flags as a drag on sector-wide operating margins.
India's organised apparel retail revenue to grow 12-13% in FY27, margins may shrink
Macy's, Inc. reports strong Q2 2026 results with continued growth across all nameplates
Macy's, Inc. reports strong Q2 2026 results with continued growth across all nameplates
What: Macy's, Inc. delivered its fifth consecutive quarter of comparable sales growth, led by double-digit gains at Bloomingdale's and continued outperformance from the Reimagine 200 stores, prompting a raise to full-year guidance.
Why it is important: The results confirm that targeted reinvestment in store renovation and luxury assortment — rather than retrenchment — is what is driving growth at a legacy department-store group, with the Reimagine 200 stores now outperforming the wider fleet for a second straight quarter.
Macy's, Inc. reported second-quarter 2026 net sales of $4.9 billion, up 1.1%, with comparable sales rising 2.7% and positive at every nameplate. The Macy's brand grew comparable sales 1.1%, with Reimagine 200 locations up 1.9%; Bloomingdale's rose 11.3%, its highest second-quarter sales volume on record, and Bluemercury increased 6.2%. GAAP diluted EPS was $0.62, up 100%, while adjusted diluted EPS of $0.63 was up 14% excluding a $0.23 net tariff refund benefit. Gross margin expanded 180 basis points to 41.5%.
The company has received all expected IEEPA tariff refunds, totalling $116 million, and is directing roughly $20 million to full-year EPS while reinvesting the remaining $96 million into its Bold New Chapter strategy. Cash stood at $1.3 billion, total debt at $2.4 billion with no material maturities until 2030; the company returned $51 million via dividends and repurchased $50 million of shares in the quarter, leaving about $1.0 billion of its $2.0 billion buyback authorisation available.
Macy's raised its full-year guidance across every metric, now expecting net sales of $21.675 billion to $21.825 billion, comparable sales growth of 1.0% to 1.5%, adjusted EBITDA margin of 7.8% to 8.0%, and adjusted diluted EPS of $2.15 to $2.35.
IADS Notes: This quarter's results extend a pattern already visible earlier in the year: Macy's Q1 2026 release described its best first-quarter performance in four years, with the Reimagine 200 initiative driving 2.4% comparable-sales growth and full-year guidance raised on the back of gains at Bloomingdale's and Bluemercury (Press Release, June 2026). Reuters coverage of that same quarter linked the turnaround to a luxury-focused strategy drawing affluent shoppers amid a broader K-shaped consumer recovery (Reuters, June 2026), a dynamic that Bloomingdale's own trajectory has borne out: WWD reported a 10.2% comparable-sales increase in the same quarter, its seventh consecutive quarter of growth, built on store renovations and the brand's capture of customers displaced by the Saks Global bankruptcy (WWD, June 2026), following an 8.8% comparable-sales gain in the third quarter of 2025 that had already marked a fifth consecutive quarter of growth and the division's best result in thirteen quarters (Press Release, December 2025). On the tariff side, Macy's approach to its $116 million in IEEPA refunds — splitting the benefit between EPS flow-through and reinvestment — mirrors the balancing act Amazon disclosed for its own $600 million refund, absorbing most of the cost while reimbursing shoppers only where charges could be directly traced (Bloomberg, July 2026).
Macy's, Inc. reports strong Q2 2026 results with continued growth across all nameplates
Printemps opens "Pas à Pas," a 200-shoe history exhibition
Printemps opens "Pas à Pas," a 200-shoe history exhibition
What: Printemps opens "Pas à Pas: La chaussure sous tous ses angles," a free exhibition of more than 200 historical and contemporary shoes under its Haussmann dome, running through October 28.
Why it is important: As the first major cultural moment staged under new CEO Rémy Baume, the show signals how incoming leadership uses curation to set an early strategic tone around discovery and culture.
Under its historic stained-glass dome, Printemps has brought together more than 200 historical and contemporary shoes for "Pas à Pas: La chaussure sous tous ses angles," organized into 11 sections exploring footwear as a functional object, fashion accessory and object of desire. General curator Sylvie Marot and scientific curator Marlène Van de Casteele assembled the show without an in-house collection or acquisitions budget, drawing instead on loans from specialist institutions — including the Shoes or No Shoes Museum in Belgium and the Musée des Métiers de la Chaussure in France — private collectors such as Olivier Jault, fashion houses and Printemps' own archives. Contributing houses include Alaïa, Balenciaga, Dior, Gucci, Jean Paul Gaultier, Louis Vuitton, Maison Margiela and Vivienne Westwood, with many pieces displayed alongside one another for the first time.
For the third consecutive year, Printemps paired the exhibition with its ESMOD student prize, asking students to reinterpret a Saison 1865 loafer; Camille Laveran's winning "Double Billie" design will be produced and sold at Printemps from spring 2027. The exhibition runs until October 28.
IADS Notes: "Pas à Pas" is the third consecutive year Printemps has anchored a free exhibition under its stained-glass dome to a broader cultural strategy, following earlier editions built around handbags and jackets and echoing the format used for "Primavera, l'art à la mode," which paired the store's 1920s-30s design-studio archives with contemporary fashion (Fashion Network, January 2025). The show also marks the first major cultural moment staged under new chief executive Rémy Baume, who joined in June 2026 tasked with strategic renewal after a nine-month leadership gap (WWD, June 2026), succeeding Jean-Marc Bellaiche, whose five-year tenure had centred on international expansion and a pivot toward experiential retail (Fashion Network, September 2025). The reliance on loans from specialist museums, private collectors and fashion houses rather than an in-house collection or acquisitions budget mirrors the approach when the Museum of Decorative Arts in Paris drew on Printemps', Le Bon Marché's and Galeries Lafayette's own archives for its 2024 retrospective on the birth of the department store (Fashion Network, February 2024). The exhibition's ESMOD partnership, for its part, extends a format already in its second year when it focused on bags, pairing a student prize with a co-branded piece sold in-store (Fashion United, September 2025).
Printemps opens "Pas à Pas," a 200-shoe history exhibition
Peek & Cloppenburg Düsseldorf renews its finance leadership
Peek & Cloppenburg Düsseldorf renews its finance leadership
What: Gerard Daniels will become Peek & Cloppenburg Düsseldorf's new Managing Director Finance on 1 November 2026, succeeding Marc Busscher, who leaves the company at the end of October.
Why it is important: The change lands as P&C's parent company is actively restructuring group leadership functions, with the new buying and merchandising organisation announced only weeks earlier, suggesting a wider management renewal underway.
Peek & Cloppenburg Düsseldorf will appoint Gerard Daniels as its new Managing Director Finance effective 1 November 2026, succeeding Marc Busscher, who leaves the company at the end of October after roughly a year in the CFO role.
Daniels joins from C&A, where he most recently led Finance & Property across Northwest Europe, a remit spanning several national markets and requiring oversight of a complex, cross-border financial organisation. Before that, he was Director and a member of the executive board at Ecco Shoes ME, where his responsibilities extended well beyond finance to cover customer service, logistics and HR. That combination of commercial financial steering and direct operational responsibility gives him a broad experience profile as he steps into the new role.
Peek & Cloppenburg Düsseldorf operates as an omnichannel provider with more than 170 stores across 17 countries and around 17,000 employees, making it one of Europe's largest multi-brand fashion retailers. Its group also includes the menswear retailer Ansons and the Danish department store Magasin du Nord.
IADS Notes: Daniels's appointment fits within a broader wave of leadership renewal already under way at Peek & Cloppenburg, whose parent company merged its Düsseldorf and Vienna buying and merchandising organisations under a newly appointed Managing Director just weeks earlier (Fashion Network, August 2026). It also marks the third CFO change at the Düsseldorf entity within roughly two and a half years, following the appointment of Dr. Tim Mundhenke after Steffen Schüller's departure in early 2024 (Fashion Network, March 2024). The pattern of bringing in finance leaders with broad, cross-functional backgrounds echoes similar moves elsewhere among department stores: Liberty London recruited Alex Pregnolato, formerly of De Beers, Prada, MCM and Versace, as CFO to drive financial and operational transformation (Fashion United, January 2026), while Galeries Lafayette created a new Director of Finance, Strategy and Transformation role for Elsa Haddad, reporting directly to its CEO as part of a wider executive renewal (Fashion Network, November 2025).
Peek & Cloppenburg Düsseldorf renews its finance leadership
Walmart goes bigger with new Neighborhood Markets
Walmart goes bigger with new Neighborhood Markets
What: Walmart doubles down with its grocery concept by opening new stores in larger locations and dimensions
it’s all about convenience, retaining a staple status to US customers and making sure Amazon does not eat up marketshares in grocery.
Why it is important: t’s all about convenience, retaining a staple status to US customers and making sure Amazon does not eat up marketshares in grocery.
Walmart is expanding its Neighborhood Market format, launching a new store in Santa Rosa Beach, Florida, and planning another in Atlanta as part of a five-year growth strategy. These stores, highlighted for their omnichannel design, are larger than previous iterations, each covering about 57,000 square feet to accommodate sales, pickup, and delivery services. Kyle Kinnard, Senior Vice President of Neighborhood Markets, emphasized that this expansion aims to enhance the convenience of the stores and support Walmart’s burgeoning e-commerce sector.
The new store designs feature broader aisles and expanded departments to facilitate both in-person and digital shopping experiences. The fresh food sections have been enlarged, and additional facilities like a larger service deli with more prepared food options have been incorporated. Health services, including private rooms for vaccinations and breastfeeding, have been introduced, mirroring features already available in Walmart supercenters.
These changes are partly driven by a notable increase in e-commerce sales, prompting Walmart to adjust store layouts to better handle online orders and in-store traffic simultaneously. The Dune Lakes and Vine City stores serve as prototypes for this new format, with the Dune Lakes location already operational as of May 8, and the Vine City store set to open shortly.
Walmart’s broader plan includes opening 150 new locations over the next five years, ranging from Neighborhood Markets to supercenters. This expansion is part of Walmart's ongoing efforts to strengthen its grocery and online sales, which have seen mid-single-digit growth, especially in produce and fresh meats.
Walmart goes bigger with new Neighborhood Markets
European Commission warned changes to Google Search could backfire
European Commission warned changes to Google Search could backfire
What:European comparison shopping services have urged the EU to require mandatory Google Shopping participation across all search result boxes, warning that a Google-operated "box" would force retailers back onto Google's own platform.
Why it is important: The outcome will determine whether retailers gain genuine alternatives to Google Shopping or face a stronger, harder-to-avoid form of self-preferencing dressed up as compliance.
A coalition of European shopping comparison sites, grouped under European Comparison Shopping Services (CSS), has written an open letter warning the European Commission that its proposed remedies for Google Search could backfire. The letter follows the Commission's finding that Google is non-compliant with Article 6(5) of the Digital Markets Act, which bars gatekeepers from self-preferencing their own services in search results; Google has 60 days to fix it.
CSS's central concern is a "box-to-box" model, where comparison shopping services would compete to display their own advertising boxes within Google results. The group argues that if Google were allowed to run its own competing box, retailers would be forced to advertise through Google's own comparison shopping service simply to remain visible in search.
CSS asked the Commission to give Google room to design a solution tested with real-world data and safeguards, rather than rigid legal formulas, to avoid returning to a "pre-2017" era of Google dominance (currently estimated above 50% market share). It called for mandatory Google Shopping participation across all boxes as an essential safeguard against "kingmaking."
IADS Notes: The letter follows a pattern of EU regulatory pressure on Google's search dominance, after the bloc had already pushed the company to open its search data to third-party competitors (a Reuters report from April 2026). Regulatory scrutiny of Google's search behaviour has extended beyond the EU, with UK authorities separately mandating changes to how Google's AI search summaries use and display publisher content (as covered by Bloomberg in June 2026). At the same time, Google has been expanding its footprint deeper into the retail transaction itself, notably through its Universal Cart, which centralises multi-retailer purchasing within Google's own ecosystem and has already raised questions about platform control and retailer autonomy (an analysis published by Forbes in May 2026). Against that backdrop, CSS's warning reflects a broader concern that remedies aimed at curbing Google's dominance in search could, if poorly designed, further entrench the company's position across adjacent parts of the retail funnel.
European Commission warned changes to Google Search could backfire
UK retail sales cool as blazing hot summer ends
UK retail sales cool as blazing hot summer ends
What: UK retail sales growth slowed to just 0.7% in the four weeks to August 29, as a cooling in discretionary spending and a fading heatwave-driven boost ended the summer on a weak note.
Why it is important: With big-ticket categories declining and shoppers trading down to smaller indulgences, retailers face a more selective, cost-conscious consumer heading into the critical Black Friday and holiday trading period.
Total UK retail sales increased by just 0.7% in the four weeks to August 29, according to the BRC-KPMG retail sales monitor, below the 12-month average of 1.6% and down sharply from 3.1% growth in August 2025. Food sales rose 2.6%, also below their 12-month average, while in-store non-food sales fell 1.2% year on year and online non-food sales dipped 0.2%. Online penetration nonetheless crept up to 36.4%, from 36% a year earlier.
BRC lead economist Harvir Dhillon called August "a disappointing month," noting that rising household bills pushed shoppers to tighten spending, particularly on big-ticket items like furniture and household appliances, while smaller indulgences in health and beauty held up. He linked the slowdown directly to the upcoming autumn Budget, urging government action on business rates and energy costs.
KPMG's Linda Ellett added that this year's summer spending was pulled forward into May by early heat, meaning retailer focus has now shifted to back-to-school and Q4/Black Friday planning.
IADS Notes: The softening in August value growth follows a similarly weak survey-based reading, as the CBI's retailer-reported sales balance fell to -48 that month from -26 in July even as investment intentions and hiring plans showed tentative stabilisation (Retail Week, August 2026). The demand slowdown is occurring alongside accelerating cost pressure: shop price inflation hit 1.5% annually in August, its fastest pace in over two years, as rising energy costs pushed up food prices and AI-driven chip demand lifted electronics prices (Reuters, September 2026) — a dynamic that helps explain why shoppers pulled back on big-ticket discretionary purchases while sustaining spend on smaller indulgences. The BRC's call for business rates and energy cost action ahead of the autumn Budget also echoes an earlier warning from UK retail bodies that a rates hike could put more than 100,000 retail jobs at risk and stall store expansion plans (Retail Week, October 2025).
Next wins ‘landmark’ equal pay ruling in UK tribunal
Next wins ‘landmark’ equal pay ruling in UK tribunal
What: An Employment Appeal Tribunal ruled that Next was justified in paying warehouse workers more than mostly female shop-floor staff, overturning the most contested part of a 2024 equal pay decision.
Why it is important: The decision arrives as European employers prepare for the EU's pay transparency directive, adding a cross-border dimension to how retailers justify and disclose pay gaps.
The UK's Employment Appeal Tribunal has ruled that Next was justified in paying warehouse staff a higher hourly rate than shop-floor employees, annulling the most contentious element of a 2024 decision that had strengthened equal pay claims against major British retailers. Next, whose staff are predominantly female on the shop floor and more evenly split by gender in warehouses, had argued that higher warehouse pay was necessary to recruit and retain workers, even though the roles were assessed as being of equal value. The tribunal agreed, finding that recruitment and retention needs constituted a legitimate aim justifying the pay gap, and that Next was not required to raise shop-floor pay to match.
Next called the ruling a "landmark victory" that removes a threat to the viability of many of its stores. Leigh Day, representing thousands of current and former Next employees, called the outcome on basic pay "disappointing," while noting the tribunal upheld earlier findings against Next's practice of paying store staff less for night and Sunday shifts, overtime and rest breaks. Next plans to appeal those remaining findings. The ruling carries wider significance for pending claims against Tesco, Asda, Morrisons and Sainsbury's, with Tesco's potential liability estimated near £4bn.
IADS Notes: The ruling lands against a backdrop of intensifying wage pressure across UK retail, where major chains have already been raising shop-floor pay to compete for talent amid tighter labour markets and rising payroll costs (a Drapers report from April 2026 detailed a wave of increases at Selfridges, John Lewis, M&S, Tesco and Asda). That context sharpens the stakes of the tribunal's decision: having accepted "market forces" as a valid justification for paying warehouse staff more than shop workers, employers retain flexibility to set differentiated pay scales even as broader wage inflation continues to squeeze margins across the sector.
A slew of new retailers at Siam Center
A slew of new retailers at Siam Center
What: Siam Center added three new tenants — Maison Keeps, Kantima House and 3rd Sense — plus Italian fast-fashion brand Subdued's first Thailand store, reinforcing its focus on emerging local designers.
Why it is important: The mix of a Thai lifestyle label, a nail salon concept, a fragrance brand and an Italian fast-fashion entrant shows how mall operators are diversifying tenant categories beyond apparel to build experiential, culturally distinctive retail environments.
Siam Center, part of Siam Piwat's portfolio alongside Siam Paragon, Siam Discovery and Iconsiam, has launched three new concepts within three weeks, continuing its strategy of platforming emerging Thai brands under an exclusivity rule requiring a share of merchandise unique to the location. Maison Keeps, a Thai lifestyle apparel label that pivoted from an officewear brand called "Keeps" during the pandemic, opened its biggest flagship yet on September 4, priced closer to Uniqlo than fast fashion. Kantima House, a home-styled nail salon by designer Grace Kantima Banjobdee, opened August 17. Fragrance brand 3rd Sense, tying its scents to four "energy pathways," opened its first physical store on August 26. Italian Gen Z fast-fashion brand Subdued opened its first Thailand store in July, offering higher quality and pricing than typical fast-fashion peers. Separately, Central Chidlom is running "Time and Treasures," a high-end watch pop-up until October 11, featuring pieces such as a US$15,000 Titoni Initial Edition.
IADS Notes: Siam Center's tenant additions sit within a broader pattern of Bangkok mall operators using differentiated, experience-led retail to strengthen destination value. Central Pattana's most recent results, reported by Inside Retail in August 2026, showed how new openings, asset upgrades and tenant mix optimisation are translating directly into stronger footfall and sales, while Monocle's July 2026 coverage described the city's malls evolving into mixed-use lifestyle destinations where retail, food, wellness and culture converge to keep physical space relevant. Siam Piwat's own properties illustrate a parallel, luxury-led version of this strategy: Inside Retail reported in July 2026 on Siam Paragon's dedicated watch-culture event aimed at positioning Bangkok as an emerging Asian horology hub, building on an influx of luxury and concept stores across Siam Paragon and IconSiam noted by Inside Retail in June 2026 and Siam Piwat's alliances with major luxury groups covered by The Bangkok Insight, also in June 2026. Together, these sources reinforce that Siam Center's platforming of emerging local brands is one strand of a wider competitive strategy across Bangkok's mall operators, who are differentiating through curated tenant mix, cultural programming and destination-building rather than relying on global brand density alone.
A slew of new retailers at Siam Center
Singapore retail sales growth slows in July, but discretionary demand holds up
Singapore retail sales growth slows in July, but discretionary demand holds up
What: Singapore retail sales rose 1.5% year-on-year in July as fuel and department-store sales declined, while recreational goods and jewellery sustained a third straight month of double-digit growth.
Why it is important: The divergence shows Singaporean households cutting back on routine spending while protecting big-ticket discretionary purchases, a pattern consistent with the department-store weakness and prime-retail polarisation already tracked across recent coverage
Singapore's retail sales growth slowed markedly in July, with sales excluding motor vehicles rising 1.5% year-on-year, down from 4.1% in June, according to the Department of Statistics. Total retail sales value was estimated at SG$3.7 billion (US$2.9 billion), of which 18.3% came from online channels.
Recreational goods and watches and jewellery led category growth, up 13.9% and 11.1% respectively, driven mainly by sporting goods and jewellery sales. This marked the third consecutive month of double-digit growth for both categories, according to Josh Gilbert, lead Apac analyst at Etoro.
Fuel sales reversed from 8% growth in June to a 1.1% decline in July, as record pump prices earlier in the year began to ease, though Gilbert expects continued volatility given renewed oil price pressure. Supermarket, mini-mart, and food and alcohol sales also fell year-on-year, partly distorted by last July's SG60 vouchers. Department stores recorded a sixth decline in seven months, underscoring the sector's structural weakness even as discretionary, big-ticket spending held firm.
IADS Notes: Singapore's retail sector has shown a consistent pattern of discretionary strength paired with structural department-store weakness. Inside Retail's coverage of June 2026 data recorded a 4.1% year-on-year rise driven by recreational goods (+11.4%) and watches and jewellery (+10.5%), while department stores fell 9.5% and F&B weakened — the same discretionary-led, department-store-lagging pattern now extending into July. That structural pressure has translated into concrete restructuring: as reported in Inside Retail, July 2026, Metro will close its Paragon and Causeway Point department stores and shift to smaller multi-concept formats after posting a US$8.8 million net loss, even as prime retail real estate in the same market continues to attract strong demand. This reflects a wider polarisation documented by Channel News Asia in December 2025, which found that owner-operators with prime Orchard Road positioning, such as Tangs and Takashimaya, have remained resilient while rent-paying tenants including Isetan, BHG and Metro face mounting losses and closures. Fuel spending, meanwhile, has proven volatile in the opposite direction to July's decline: Inside Retail, June 2026 reported a 14.4% jump in petrol station sales in April, underscoring how sensitive this category is to pump-price swings from month to month.
Singapore retail sales growth slows in July, but discretionary demand holds up
Harvey Nichols' former owner unlikely to recover £104.6 million
Harvey Nichols' former owner unlikely to recover £104.6 million
What: Harvey Nichols' unsecured creditors, including former owner Sir Dickson Poon via his Broad Gain (UK) entity, stand to recover as little as 1% to 20% of what they are owed, according to administrators FTI Consulting.
Why it is important: The gap between Poon's £104.6 million claim and Harvey Nichols' £43 million sale price shows how completely equity and creditor value can be erased once a business enters formal administration, a risk borne out at Galeria Karstadt Kaufhof and Saks Global alike (Fashion Network, May 2024; Reuters, January 2026).
Harvey Nichols' suppliers are expected to recover only a fraction of what they are owed following the retailer's administration and sale, but the scale of the loss facing its former owner is drawing particular attention. Sir Dickson Poon, who bought Harvey Nichols in 1991 for £53 million and ran it for 35 years, is the business's largest creditor via his Broad Gain (UK) entity, owed £104.6 million. With Harvey Nichols sold for just over £43 million and secured creditors taking priority, much of that sum is likely to be written off entirely.
Overall, Harvey Nichols owed around £240 million. Insolvency specialists FTI Consulting, who are handling the administration, expect unsecured creditors to recover up to 20% of what they are owed, though for some the figure could fall below 1%, depending on which company within the group held their debt.
Poon's family had run Harvey Nichols for three-and-a-half decades and lent it a further £32.5 million as recently as 2024, largely to pay down debt. The retailer had remained loss-making for some time, and before its auction Poon said it needed between £50 million and £60 million in fresh investment to return to stability.
IADS Notes: Harvey Nichols' own collapse into administration and pre-pack acquisition by Frasers Group was previously traced to failed regional expansion, weaker Asian tourist spending and the end of UK VAT-free shopping (Inside Retail, August 2026). The pattern of a creditor waterfall determining a distressed department store's fate recurs elsewhere: at Galeria Karstadt Kaufhof, creditors voted to approve a restructuring plan preserving 76 of 92 branches under new ownership (Fashion Network, May 2024), while at Saks Global, Chanel and Kering emerged among the leading unsecured creditors facing millions in potential losses, underscoring how far down the priority queue even major suppliers can sit (Reuters, January 2026). Ownership fragility has proven just as consequential as creditor structure: Selfridges' then-shareholder Signa filed for insolvency weeks after selling a stake, citing a lack of liquidity (Retail Gazette, November 2023), and Breuninger's owners put the family-controlled German chain up for sale to 31 interested parties as they sought a new capital structure (Wirtschafts Woche, August 2024). Together, these cases show that neither a long-tenured owner's capital injections nor a heritage brand's prestige reliably protects unsecured creditors, suppliers, or even secured stakeholders once a department store enters formal insolvency.
Harvey Nichols' former owner unlikely to recover £104.6 million
Redundancies hit Harvey Nichols as restructuring begins
Redundancies hit Harvey Nichols as restructuring begins
What: Frasers Group has begun restructuring Harvey Nichols, resulting in significant redundancies and the elimination of certain departments, staff were informed on 11 September.
Why it is important: The scale and speed of the cuts offer an early signal of how Frasers intends to run newly acquired distressed luxury assets, a pattern other heritage retailers facing insolvency may be watching closely.
Harvey Nichols is undergoing a restructuring that will eliminate certain departments entirely, with significant redundancies across the business following its acquisition by Frasers Group on 13 August. Staff were informed of the changes on 11 September, an inside source told Drapers.
A Frasers Group spokesperson said that some review and rationalisation is inevitable as the new operating model takes shape, but declined to comment on further detail while the consultation remains ongoing, adding that the company remains focused on building a stronger, more sustainable business for the long-term while supporting brand partnerships.
The restructuring follows a Companies House filing from 3 September showing that suppliers owed money by Harvey Nichols before the acquisition are expected to recover less than 15p in the pound. Prior to the £43.3m pre-pack deal, suppliers were owed £270m, including Canada Goose (£565,267), Max Mara (£520,000), Chloé (£516,329), Coach (£402,285) and Victoria Beckham (£353,349), as well as logistics firm GXO (£4.5m) and the Royal Borough of Kensington and Chelsea (£1.5m). Administrators FTI Consulting cited deteriorating trading conditions since the pandemic and the withdrawal of shareholder funding.
IADS Notes: Frasers Group's completed acquisition of Harvey Nichols on 13 August (BoF, August 2026) already carried the outline of the restructuring now under way: the deal handed Frasers the Knightsbridge flagship, five regional stores, the online business and more than 1,000 employees, framing the takeover as a test of whether operational discipline could be applied without eroding the brand's luxury credibility. The structural weaknesses Frasers inherited — failed regional expansion, softer Asian tourist spending and the end of UK VAT-free shopping — were set out shortly after the deal closed (Inside Retail, August 2026), which warned the new owner would need to review the store estate, cost base and operating model, a review today's reported departmental eliminations now appear to put into practice. Frasers' early handling of stakeholders beyond its own workforce offered a contrasting signal: it moved to make goodwill payments to freelance personal shoppers left owed money by the collapse and pledged faster payment terms going forward (City AM, August 2026), a gesture aimed at protecting supplier and freelancer confidence during a reputationally sensitive acquisition. That contrast has sharpened as the financial scale of the collapse has become clearer: Companies House filings showed unsecured suppliers, including Chloé, Victoria Beckham and Coach, recovering under 15% of the £270.5m they were owed (Financial Times, September 2026), while former owner Sir Dickson Poon's Broad Gain entity, Harvey Nichols' largest unsecured creditor, stands to recover as little as 1% to 20% of its £104.6m claim (Fashion Network, September 2026). Set against those creditor shortfalls, today's redundancies extend the list of stakeholders absorbing the cost of Harvey Nichols' insolvency beyond suppliers and the former owner to the retailer's own workforce.
Redundancies hit Harvey Nichols as restructuring begins
Exemplar Luxury Group names new HR leader
Exemplar Luxury Group names new HR leader
What: Exemplar Luxury Group has named Gretchen Koback Pursel, former chief people officer at Tiffany & Co., The Wella Company and Equinox, as its new chief people officer, effective September 28.
Why it is important: The succession closes a 15-year chapter in ELG's people leadership just as the company enters a new ownership era, echoing how other department store groups have paired leadership change with people-strategy renewal during transformation.
Exemplar Luxury Group (ELG), the company formerly known as Saks Global, has named Gretchen Koback Pursel as its new chief people officer, effective September 28. Koback Pursel brings HR leadership experience across luxury, beauty and wellness, having previously served as chief people officer at Tiffany & Co., The Wella Company and, most recently, Equinox.
She joins ELG shortly after the company emerged from a six-month Chapter 11 bankruptcy in late June with a healthier balance sheet and new ownership, and succeeds Sarah Garber, who is leaving after 15 years, during which she helped lead the company through its transformation, merger integration and financial restructuring. CEO Geoffroy van Raemdonck said Koback Pursel's track record in leading global teams through transformation and building high-performing cultures makes her the right leader to guide ELG's next phase. She will be responsible for developing a people strategy geared toward performance, engagement and retention across the group's banners, which include Neiman Marcus, Saks Fifth Avenue and Bergdorf Goodman. Koback Pursel said she aims to build a people strategy rooted in belonging as ELG works to define its culture and its place in the future of luxury retail.
IADS Notes: Koback Pursel's appointment lands as Exemplar Luxury Group works to convert its post-bankruptcy financial reset into durable commercial recovery. The company's emergence from Chapter 11 under its new name, with debt cut by roughly 75% and a streamlined focus on Saks Fifth Avenue, Neiman Marcus and Bergdorf Goodman, was detailed by WWD in June 2026. More recently, WWD in September 2026 described the group's next test as proving that a cleaner balance sheet can translate into stronger sales, restored luxury relevance and renewed prestige under CEO Geoffroy van Raemdonck — the same leadership now bringing in a new people chief. Earlier coverage from BoF in May 2026 traced how van Raemdonck's turnaround relied on cutting debt from $3.4 billion to $1.1 billion and rebuilding vendor trust after a materially smaller store footprint took shape. The CPO transition itself echoes a broader pattern of department stores pairing leadership change with people-strategy renewal during periods of transformation, as seen when Drapers reported in October 2025 on John Lewis Partnership naming Helen Webb as chief people officer to shape its employee-owned culture after an 18-month interim period.
Exemplar Luxury Group names new HR leader
Japan July household spending falls at fastest pace in 30 months
Japan July household spending falls at fastest pace in 30 months
What: Japanese household spending fell 3.6% year-on-year in July, its steepest drop in 30 months and an eighth straight month of decline, badly missing forecasts.
Why it is important: Consumers are being selective rather than simply pulling back, cutting food and transport while spending more on entertainment and household goods — a category shift retailers can act on directly.
Japanese household spending fell 3.6% year-on-year in July, government data showed, far worse than the 1.6% drop economists had forecast and marking an eighth consecutive month of decline. It was the steepest fall since January 2024. On a seasonally adjusted month-on-month basis, spending edged up just 0.5%, well below the 2.6% rise expected.
An internal affairs ministry official said the decline reflected selective spending rather than a broad retreat: households increased outlays on entertainment and household goods while cutting back on food and transportation. The official stopped short of blaming rising living costs directly, but analysts said consumers are feeling the pinch from higher prices, with little relief in sight.
Masato Koike, senior economist at Sompo Institute Plus, noted that despite large wage gains in this year's spring negotiations, downward pressure on consumption is likely to intensify as price increases become more pronounced. Tokyo's core inflation accelerated for a third straight month in August, pointing to broadening price pressures ahead of a closely watched Bank of Japan meeting.
IADS Notes: Japanese retail's macro backdrop has been mixed heading into this data point. Currency weakness has been a persistent structural pressure, with retailers moving from short-term coping to long-term hedging as the yen's decline erodes import buying power and squeezes margins, per Reuters, August 2026. That pressure sits alongside signs of resilience at the department store level: sales had posted a third consecutive month of growth back in March, lifted by luxury demand and a rebound in tourist spending, according to NHK World Japan, April 2026. The July household spending decline suggests that domestic consumer pull-back, distinct from the tourist-driven department store recovery, is deepening even as inflation broadens. This mirrors a similar price-driven squeeze on consumers elsewhere, with UK retailers raising prices at the fastest pace since 2024 as reported by Reuters, August 2026, pointing to a broader pattern of cost pass-through weighing on household budgets across major retail markets.
Japan July household spending falls at fastest pace in 30 months
Central Group appoints Wallaya Chirathivat as president
Central Group appoints Wallaya Chirathivat as president
What: Central Group has named Wallaya Chirathivat president, tasking her with representing the group to investors, partners and government agencies as it enters its next growth phase.
Why it is important: The appointment extends Central Group's leadership consolidation drive, following the creation of a CEO Europe role in 2026, showing a pattern of adding coordination layers as the group's portfolio grows more complex.
Thai retail and property conglomerate Central Group has appointed Wallaya Chirathivat as president, strengthening its senior leadership team as the group enters its next phase of growth. Chirathivat has spent more than 40 years with Central Group, working across retail, real estate and corporate management. In her new role, she will support group-wide priorities, strengthen collaboration across the group's businesses, and represent Central Group in engagements with investors, partners, government agencies and international networks.
She previously played a central role in the expansion of Central Pattana, the group's property arm, overseeing its growth from 10 to 45 projects. The appointment follows a broader restructuring of Central Group's leadership this year, including the formation of a new board chaired by Professor Emeritus Dr Suthiphand Chirathivat and an executive committee led by executive chairman and CEO Tos Chirathivat. Chirathivat now joins the group's top management alongside executive vice chairman Prin Chirathivat, executive director Pichai Chirathivat and CFO Pandit Mongkolkul.
IADS Notes: Wallaya Chirathivat's promotion follows a five-year, $3.6 billion expansion plan at Central Pattana targeting 30 new mixed-use projects and record occupancy, detailed in Inside Retail, March 2026 — the growth engine underlying her credited scaling of the unit from 10 to 45 projects. The appointment also extends a pattern of leadership consolidation already underway at Central Group: Fashion Network, April 2026 reported the creation of a CEO Europe role for Pierluigi Cocchini to coordinate strategy and commercial partnerships across Selfridges, KaDeWe, Globus and Rinascente, a group-wide coordination mandate comparable to the one Chirathivat now holds at head-office level. Unlike the "glass cliff" pattern documented in Inside Retail, August 2026, where female retail leaders such as David Jones' Erica Berchtold and Woolworths' Amanda Bardwell took charge amid losses and restructuring, Chirathivat's appointment comes during a growth phase rather than a crisis. It also sits within a broader shift toward gender diversity in senior leadership at Asian department-store conglomerates, following Shinsegae's appointment of its first female CEO as part of a 32-executive reshuffle reported in Korea JoongAng Daily, September 2025.
Central Group appoints Wallaya Chirathivat as president
Falabella's technology investment grew 60% in 2026 as CIO doubles down on AI, data and digital platforms
Falabella's technology investment grew 60% in 2026 as CIO doubles down on AI, data and digital platforms
What: Falabella's technology investment grew 60% in 2026, with US$265 million of its US$900 million total budget allocated to technology, as the group runs company-wide AI initiatives across its five business units.
Why it is important: Falabella's investment growth, and the returns it is already generating (US$78 million in AI-referred sales, 20%+ logistics efficiency gains), show that department-store groups can convert AI spending into measurable revenue and operational impact rather than experimental cost.
For one week, more than 1,100 Falabella employees across Chile, Peru, Colombia and India stepped away from their usual roles for PlaAI Week, an initiative testing how artificial intelligence could solve concrete problems across the group's five business units. More than 200 multidisciplinary teams competed over two days, with ten reaching a final judged by the executive committee; CTO Leonardo Di Nucci says the resulting solutions are already being implemented, not merely piloted. The exercise reflects Falabella's broader shift of AI from a technical specialism to a business-embedded capability, following a year in which technology investment rose 60% and the CIO role moved from back-office IT toward proposing solutions directly to the business.
Concrete applications span hyper-personalisation, which Di Nucci says generated more than US$78 million in sales referred to Falabella.com over the past 12 months; a Sodimac virtual assistant that increased purchase intent fivefold by translating customer needs into materials lists; automated customer service handling frequent questions while preserving human escalation; and computer-vision-based truck-load monitoring that lifted route efficiency by more than 20%. With the 2027 budget still being finalised, Di Nucci says spending on digital, e-commerce, AI, data and platforms will keep rising.
IADS Notes: Falabella's stepped-up technology spending sits within a capex cycle already documented across the group's 2026 activity: a Press Release in July 2026 linked the opening of a small-format store in Angol to the same US$900 million 2026 investment plan, spanning new stores, remodelled locations and technology upgrades across Chile, Peru and Mexico, while a Press Release in September 2026 reported record second-quarter profit of US$242 million and 19% growth in digital GMV, evidence that the group's physical-digital ecosystem investment is translating into measurable returns. The PlaAI Week initiative reflects a broader industry pattern in which AI adoption in retail proceeds gradually and is absorbed into existing roles rather than displacing them, as The Economist argued in September 2025, with organisational change centred on upskilling and workflow redesign rather than wholesale disruption. The scale of returns Falabella attributes to AI-driven personalisation echoes an earlier case at Saks Global, where WWD reported in September 2025 that data on 30 million luxury shoppers was being used to tailor every saks.com homepage to individual preferences, underscoring how granular customer data is increasingly monetised through personalisation across the sector. Falabella's use of computer vision to optimise truck-load capacity parallels Amazon's expansion of AI-driven supply-chain tools, which Retail Dive reported in September 2025 was cutting customs-clearance processing time by more than half, both illustrating how AI is being directed at operational efficiency alongside customer-facing applications.
