News
Nike plans for stand-alone Jordan stores
Nike plans for stand-alone Jordan stores
What: As Nike accelerated its DTC growth, the brand has moved away from select wholesale partners and moved into the second phase of its marketplace strategy.
Why is it important: In pursuit of a direct-to-consumer strategy, Nike will begin testing Jordan-branded stores in North America in fiscal 2023.
Nike revenue grew 5% to $10.9 billion in the third quarter, on the back of 17% growth in Nike Direct and 22% growth in digital. Nike Direct made up 42% of the retailer's sales in the quarter, reaching $4.6 billion, according to a company press release.
Nike continues to push its DTC strategy, but also seeks to emphasize that wholesale is still a significant part of the company's business.
Swire to open new Taikoo Li shopping mall
Swire to open new Taikoo Li shopping mall
What: The real estate developer has announced its intention to open the fourth iteration of its fashion and lifestyle concept, Taikoo Li, in China’s ancient capital of Xi’an. It will be the group’s seventh retail property in mainland China.
Why it is important: Taikoo Li has already found success in Beijing and Chengdu, with a growing retail revenue of 27% and 21.9% respectively last quarter. The new retail-led project will have a low density, open plan design, but will also include cultural facilities, a luxury hotel and serviced apartments. It is expected to be completed by the end of 2025 with a total gross leasable area of 269,000-square-metres.
Swire Properties will take a 70% stake in the joint venture with a 30% stake taken by local company, Xi’an City Huanwen. The total investment in the project is expected to reach about 10 billion yuan ($1.58 billion).
Fenwick announces a £40 m investment in its Newcastle flagship
Fenwick announces a £40 m investment in its Newcastle flagship
What: While there are rumors that the Bond Street store might be for sale, Fenwick has announced a major overhaul of the Newcastle flagship.
Why it is important: Even though digital can not be missed, all retailers keep on investing in their physical stores, as also exemplified by Breuninger which, although it is moving fast in e-commerce, keeps on investing resources, time and money into the revamping and expansion of its physical stores.
Fenwick will begin a complete renovation of the Newcastle flagship which will take place over the next 5 years, with a total investment of £40 m, and starting by the beauty hall and the accessories department.
This renovation coincides with the initiatives launched to mark the 140th anniversary of the company, which translated into collaborations with brands such as Edeline Lee, Rixo, Paul Smith and Fred Perry.
Fenwick announces a £40 m investment in its Newcastle flagship
Selfridges uses new DHL fast return service
Selfridges uses new DHL fast return service
What: Selfridges will now have access to DHL’s ‘Just Right Returns’ service.
Why is it important: Ahead of the supply chain meeting, this news about optimizing retail is noteworthy.
Returns are trackable to consumers through the DHL Parcel app and, through the new partnership with ZigZag to create a fast easy quality return solution, retailers will also be able to track returns via ZigZag, providing visibility throughout the process.
Macy’s off-mall strategy
Macy’s off-mall strategy
What: Macy's has been repositioning its store fleet and seeking to open more off-mall locations. They will contribute “a material level of volume over time.”
Why it is important: Market by Macy’s, whose sales are reportedly beyond expectations, and Bloomie’s small store format are critical to the growth of the store's channel and critical to the growth of the omnichannel business.
The number of new customers shopping at these stores is materially higher than mall-based stores. The off-mall strategy focuses on doing business at a very local level, has customer experience scores meaningfully higher than Macy’s mall-based stores, and features easier navigation, quick and easy checkouts, and colleagues available to help customers.
Additional Bloomie’s stores are in the works: they will offer contemporary and luxury brands, services, tech-enabled stylists, new store design concepts and a restaurant. Market by Macy’s, with three units in Texas and two in Atlanta, will expand to additional markets. The specialty format has branded and private-label fashion, products from local designers and direct-to-consumer brands, food, an apothecary, plants, home items and a café.
One hundred sixty Macy department stores have “curated” assortments focused on customers under 40 and a diverse audience, and weighted toward certain brands such as Michael Kors, Steve Madden, Cotton On and private brands such as And Now This. Adjacencies have changed for better flow and navigation, and there’s cross-merchandising of brands.
Some Macy’s store closures have delayed in order to maintain a physical presence in many markets while the off-mall format stores are scaled up. They also serve as fulfilment hubs supporting the digital operations. Keeping these cash-positive stores open also helps to fund the investments to reposition the fleet over the next several years.
On the digital side, Macy’s and Bloomingdales’s are developing marketplaces this year, to offer consumers more products, more brands, more categories and greater depth in categories already carried. Digital sales are seen growing to the mid 40% range as a percent of total sales of Macy’s total volume, from around 35% last year, and 25% the year before.
Iguatemi acquires stake in resale platform
Iguatemi acquires stake in resale platform
What: The Brazilian mall conglomerate acquired 23.08% of in Etiqueta Unica, Brazil's largest e-commerce platform for second-hand luxury goods.
Why it is important: This move not only represents a key avenue of growth for Iguatemi but also a way to appeal to a conscious consumer who is growing increasingly concerned about sustainability.
The transaction secures Iguatemi a purchase option to become a controlling shareholder of the resale site in the next three years.
Founded in 2013, Etiqueta Unica is Latin America’s most prominent luxury resale e-commerce platform, growing 40 percent a year on average. The platform carries over 600 domestic and international labels and over 65,000 products from brands including Gucci, Chanel, Hermès and Louis Vuitton.
Hudson’s Bay bids for Kohl’s
Hudson’s Bay bids for Kohl’s
What: Hudson’s Bay Co. has made a bid for Kohl’s Corp.
Why is it important: Hudson’s Bay’s bid was reported to be above the USD 64 to USD 65 a share previously offered by other interested parties. The last-minute entering of Hudson’s Bay, sent shares of Kohl’s up 17.3% to USD 63.13, giving the company a market capitalization of USD 8.8 bn.
Hudson’s Bay would be interested in opening Kohl’s stores in Canada, and also possibly separating the Kohl’s brick-and-mortar store business and the kohls.com digital business into separate companies, similar to how HBC separated The Bay divisions into separate physical stores and dot-com businesses last year. They could also perceive value in Kohl’s real estate, and possibly sell off some locations and lease them back.
Harrods ends partnership with Shin Kong Mitsukoshi
Harrods ends partnership with Shin Kong Mitsukoshi
What: Harrods will not be renewing the contract with the department stores as of this year.
Why is it important: Harrods has had a collaboration with the department store to exclusively sell Harrods products since 2006.
Following the end of the contract they will also be shutting down the stores located in Thailand and Singapore. Harrods will be focusing on their two outposts that they have opened in Shanghai and Beijing that provide a members-only private shopping experience Additionally they will be focused on the recently opened Harrods Tea Rooms in Shanghai as part of their expansion into the Asian market.
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China’s nightlife scene enters the shopping mall
China’s nightlife scene enters the shopping mall
What: In Shanghai, malls including TX Huaihai and Bohui Plaza are opening nightclubs alongside fashion and luxury stores, driving foot traffic and sales to retail centres.
Why it is important: According to a 2019 study conducted by RET China Commercial Real Estate Research Center, nighttime commercial sales in Shanghai account for 62% of spend.
That year, Beijing, Shanghai, Guangzhou, Tianjin, Chongqing, Nanjing and other cities successively introduced measures for nighttime economic development. The scope of the night economy covers catering, transportation, shopping, exhibitions, entertainment, tourism and other industries.
John Lewis removes Russian made products from partnership
John Lewis removes Russian made products from partnership
What: The John Lewis Partnership is removing from sale products in Waitrose and John Lewis that are made in Russia.
Why is it important: John Lewis partnership will no longer sell Russian Vodka in Waitrose and a line of pizza oven pellets in John Lewis. They are working with suppliers to review products that have components of Russian origin and will be seeking to mitigate further exposure to the region.
Printemps to discontinue its "8 jours en or" promotion
Printemps to discontinue its "8 jours en or" promotion
What: Established in the 70’s to compete with Galeries Lafayette’s famous “3J” promotional sales, Printemps launches the "8 jours en or" (8 golden days) promotion for the last time.
Why it is important: As for “3J” at Galeries Lafayette, "8 jours en or" was happening early October and early March every year, and was fully part of the department store identity for decades. Over the years, Such promotions have been declining in traffic and sales volume. It unknown whether Printemps will replace with another promotion.
Myer’s share price soars after rare dividend promise
Myer’s share price soars after rare dividend promise
What: The Australian department store operator revealed a six-month profit of AU $32.3 million ($23.7 million) on sales of AU $1.52 billion and confirmed it would pay its first dividend since 2017.
Why it is important: A combination of the online platform and store network were key contributions to the results, especially during the challenging Covid closures.
The chief executive John King reported a 15.2% increase in sales across the first five weeks trading into the second half, which was enough to push the company’s share price up 24.4%.
When stores were forced to close because of Covid, customers moved online resulting in a 47.5% boost in e-commerce sales. The e-commerce business now accounts for 27.9% of overall sales.
Macy’s adds Jill Granoff and Marie Chandoha to the board of directors
Macy’s adds Jill Granoff and Marie Chandoha to the board of directors
What: Macy’s announced the appointment of Marie Chandoha, former president and chief executive officer of Charles Schwab Investment Management, and Jill Granoff, managing partner of Eurazeo and chief executive officer of Eurazeo’s Brands division, to its board of directors.
Why is it important: Chandoha brings more than 35 years in financial services and investment management spaces. She led Charles Schwab Investment Management’s product and digital transformation, building a high-performing organization and doubling the firm’s assets under management.
Granoff brings 30 years of deep leadership experience building and growing consumer-driven companies with expertise as a strategist and brand builder in the retail, beauty and fashion industries. In her roles at Eurazeo, she is responsible for leading investment activities and overseeing the performance of the firm’s Brands portfolio globally.
With the addition of Chandoha and Granoff, Macy’s board will comprise 14 members.
Macy’s adds Jill Granoff and Marie Chandoha to the board of directors
Macy’s adds Jill Granoff and Marie Chandoha to the board of directors
Saks Off 5th rebrands
Saks Off 5th rebrands
What: Saks Off 5th receives USD 200 million investment from Insight Partners’ to enhance its digital experiences, expand the assortment, add talent, and escalate marketing initiatives.
Why is it important: The investment by Insight has put Saks Off 5th in a position to invest in things that matter for their customers. Including, marketing and driving brand awareness as well as customer acquisition, enhancing the app and website experiences, improving logistics and distribution to get products to customers faster, and attracting talent to the team.
The marketing of “Where Fashion Takes Off,” its 2022 spring marketing campaign and new brand tag line, includes paid social media, display advertising, website ads, email, and online video podcasts, and covers both Saksoff5th.com and the 100 Saks Off 5th stores.
Central Retail’ solid fourth quarter
Central Retail’ solid fourth quarter
What: The retail arm of Central Group says revenue rose by 15% year-on-year to 58.77 billion Thai baht ($1.8 billion) and EBITDA was up 42% to 8.03 billion baht in its latest quarter.
Why it is important: Net profit for the company soared 124% to 2.5 billion baht.
The group did not break down the performance of its various business units, which also includes retail chains selling groceries, sportswear, stationery, and electronics across Thailand and Vietnam.
Gap opens shop-in-shop within ‘Next’
Gap opens shop-in-shop within ‘Next’
What: Gap has opened its first branded shop-in-shop within Next’s Oxford Street store in London, in a return to the British high street, following the closure of all its UK stores in 2021 after a strategic review of its business.
Why is it important: The first Gap shop-in-shop is located within Next’s largest West End store on London’s Oxford Street and will be the biggest branded shop within the store, covering 4,000 square feet of retail space. The concept store has been designed to embody Gap’s reinvented approach to retail in the UK, and features an open, modern, and minimal design, and includes its own entrance onto Oxford Street.
The Gap shop-in-shop will sit alongside other brands stocked in the Next store including womenswear brand Lipsy and stationery brand Paperchase. It will also offer embroidery, badging and monogramming customisation stations for Gap customers to personalise their purchases.
Next will operate Gap’s business in the UK and Ireland as a franchise partner, managing its e-commerce business and establishing Gap-branded shop-in-shops within Next. The move is part of the American brand's plans to amplify its omnichannel business to better serve its customers within the UK and Ireland.
Macy’s exclusive line by Maluma
Macy’s exclusive line by Maluma
What: Colombian powerhouse Maluma is launching his first fashion collection for men and women exclusively with Macy’s.
Why is it important: Royalty by Maluma, designed in partnership with Reunited Clothing, is an exploration of his lifelong admiration for the artistry, and high fashion as well as furthers his mission to bring lasting style to his community through accessible collections.
Available in sizes XS to XXL with prices ranging from $39.50-$179.00, Royalty by Maluma is now on macys.com, Macy’s mobile app, and at select Macy’s nationwide.
Finnish department store Stockmann returns to profits
Finnish department store Stockmann returns to profits
What: Stockmann group is back in the black after a €12,3m loss in 2020.
Why it is important: This positive trend is also benefitting to the department store division although the first half of 2021 prevents the full year results to be positive.
Stockmann, the group owning the eponymous department store and the Lindex brand, has reported a positive 2021 FY with an adjusted operating profit of €68,1m, to be compared with a loss of €12,3m in 2020. Expectations for 2022 remain positive as well as the dynamics around the Lindex brand are positive.
When it comes to the department store division, results are increasing as well, however the consolidated result for 2021 remains in the red due to a low traffic on the first half of the year.
Amazon to close all of its bookstores and '4-star' shops
Amazon to close all of its bookstores and '4-star' shops
What: Amazon plans to close all 68 of its physical book stores, pop up shops and "4-star" stores in the United States and United Kingdom, ending some of its longest-running experiments in physical retail.
Why it is important: The e-tailer said physical retail remains an important way to reach shoppers and will continue to work on other concepts, such as its recently announced fashion store in greater Los Angeles.
Macy’s ‘Backstage’ takes centre stage
Macy’s ‘Backstage’ takes centre stage
What: Macy’s expands backstage store-within-store to 37 additional locations in Spring 2022.
Why is it important: Macy’s will bring its off-price, on-trend styles to additional stores nationwide offering shoppers another way to find and express their personal style at significant savings on their finds.
Macy’s Backstage store-within-stores range from 11,000 to 16,000 square feet of retail space, delivering a constantly changing assortment. With best-in-class fashion for those who love the hunt, customers can find something to fit their style in apparel for women, men, and children; a wide range of toys, housewares, beauty products, designer handbags, activewear and pet accessories.
At Macy’s Backstage, shoppers can earn and redeem Star Rewards and use their Macy’s credit card at all locations, creating a seamless experience for those shopping at both Macy’s full-line and Backstage stores.
Mytheresa partners with JD.com in China
Mytheresa partners with JD.com in China
What: The German luxury e-commerce company, Mytheresa, has joined the Chinese e-commerce giant, JD.com, launching an official e-boutique on its platform.
Why it is important: It has become increasingly common to see international e-commerce players join with local platform players in China, due largely to the dominance of traffic garnered by the likes of JD.com and Alibaba’s Tmall.
JD.com’s active user base had reached 550 million by last September. Rival Alibaba has collaborated with Net-a-Porter and Farfetch, which benefit from its 979 million local active users.
The collaborated online store offers luxury brands such as Alaïa, Balmain, Roger Vivier, Versace and designer brands like Marine Serre, Lemaire and Ganni. All the products will be directly shipped from Mytheresa’s Munich headquarters with Mytheresa providing 30-day free returns and Chinese customer service.
Macy’s launches new brand platform
Macy’s launches new brand platform
What: Macy’s rebrands with the new ‘own your style’ platform to help customers find and buy fashion that best suits their personal style.
Why is it important: Macy’s has stepped up personalization efforts, revamped its website, formed a style crew for fashion tips, and is creating in-store areas filled with apparel and accessories designated as “must-haves.” This strategy is geared to project some fashion authority and serve customers on a more individual basis.
Macy’s also changed its dress code for its colleagues, so they can better express their personal style and encourage customers to do the same.
“Own your style” will be integrated into macys.com, the Macy’s app, social media, and Macy’s stores. There will be digital screens providing style guidance to customers and displays of shoes and bags cross merchandised with outfits to give further suggestions.
Nordstrom strong fourth quarter
Nordstrom strong fourth quarter
What: Sales and earnings are in line with fiscal 2021 outlook, with fourth quarter results demonstrating progress against the department store’s long-term growth strategy.
Why it is important: Digital sales in the fourth quarter decreased 1% compared with the same period in fiscal 2020 and increased 23% compared with the same period in fiscal 2019. Digital sales represented 44% of total sales during the quarter and 42% of sales for the fiscal year.
In its fourth quarter results report, Nordstrom demonstrates progress against its long-term growth strategy. The company reported net earnings of USD 200 million, and earnings before interest and taxes ("EBIT") of USD 299 million for the fourth quarter. For the fiscal year ended January 29, 2022, net earnings were USD 178 million, with EBIT of USD 492 million.
For the fourth quarter ended January 29, 2022, net sales increased 23% versus the same period in fiscal 2020 and decreased 1% versus the same period in fiscal 2019. Gross merchandise value ("GMV") increased 24% versus the same period in fiscal 2020 and was flat versus the same period in fiscal 2019. Nordstrom banner net sales were flat and GMV increased 2% compared with the fourth quarter of 2019. Net sales for Nordstrom Rack decreased 5% versus the fourth quarter of fiscal 2019, a sequential improvement of 320 basis points over the third quarter.
Sales in the home, active, designer, beauty and kids categories had the strongest growth compared with the fourth quarter of 2019. The company made significant progress on its merchandising strategies throughout 2021, with choice count at an all-time high, increasing 50% over last year, and more than 300 new brands launched during the year. Additionally, alternative vendor partnership models accounted for 10% of Nordstrom banner GMV in the fourth quarter, up from 7% in 2019.
The company has provided the following financial outlook for fiscal 2022:
• Revenue growth, including retail sales and credit card revenues, of 5 to 7% versus fiscal 2021
• EBIT margin of 5.6 to 6.0% of sales
• Income tax rate of approximately 27%
Allbirds plan to start wholesaling
Allbirds plan to start wholesaling
What: Allbirds had previously partnered with Nordstrom, but they plan on moving into other retailers starting in the second quarter.
Why is it important: Beginning in the second quarter, Allbirds will selectively enter third-party retailers. The goal is to build awareness and credibility for Allbirds, along with showing up in the right places with the right consumers.
While other retailers will also carry their brand, it will not lead to a huge rise in sales and only moderately bring growth to their business this year.
They plan to start wholesaling primarily in the U.S. as well as a small number of European retailers, with Asian stores in their future plans. The stores will not be given full access to the full Allbirds assortment but select products that are most appropriate for those market segments.
