What: Local e-commerce companies are starting to see their sales growth stagnate this year, amid intensifying competition as more firms enter the rapidly growing online retail sector.

Why it is important: E-commerce operators had previously been growing by at least 20% to 30% each year, but the rate slowed to 12% in February from a year ago, according to data released by Statistics Korea.

Coupang, the country's largest e-commerce firm established in 2010, has grown by nearly 30% every year based on its overnight delivery system with some 100 distribution centers around the country. Its losses also accumulated to over 6 trillion won due to construction costs for more logistics centers, but it still plans to build more. In order to do so, it has to make a turnaround by 2024. This is why it has increased its paid membership fees.

In 2021, SSG.com, Shinsegae Group's e-commerce unit, was up by 22% year-on-year. However, SSG.com is concerned as eBay Korea which is failing to create big synergy its other retail units.

Lotte Group's online shopping mall Lotte ON is still struggling to make its presence known in the e-commerce scene. Its revenue showed a 22.7% increase in the fourth quarter of last year, but there was no prominent driving force.

Korean e-commerce explosive growth comes to end 

What: Farfetch has made many investments and acquisitions on its quest to dominate luxury fashion, and now it’s doing the same in beauty.

Why is it important: Following its acquisition of Violet Grey and the minority stake it took in Neiman Marcus Group the platform will launch beauty on Wednesday with an assortment of over 100 prestige brands.

Off White, which is owned by Farfetch, will launch four fragrances with the retailer, while Browns Fashion, the London-based luxury retailer, is also launching a limited beauty assortment online and in its three brick-and-mortar doors.

Farfetch is looking to differentiate itself with a gender-neutral assortment in an approach it is calling “Beauty Beyond Boundaries.” They want to be conscious of the fact that they have a diverse audience of pre-existing clients, and we expect to have a huge influx of new customers.

While Violet Grey and Browns will lean into small, curated assortments, Farfetch will fulfill orders with inventory from the two retailers, as well as its own buy. Digital activations will range from Roblox to The Sims 4, wherein content creators will create their own beauty avatars. Farfetch’s website will also include virtual try-on for makeup, starting with lipstick and later extending to complexion products.

In addition a campaign called “Your Choice. Your Beauty. Your Farfetch.” It is inaugurating the Global Beauty Collective, a committee that will aim to “educate, inspire and build a sense of community.”

Many of the brands that are on Violet Grey will be on Farfetch, sometimes with a fuller assortment.

Farfetch Goes Big on Beauty

What: As traditional retailers battle to retain consumers’ attention in an increasingly digital world, the role of stores is shifting away from products toward experiences.

Why is it important: The coronavirus pandemic accelerated the shift to online shopping, and with the metaverse looming, retailers are luring back visitors with formats that employ sight, sound, and smell to transport them into dimensions previously associated with gaming or movies.

Stores are no longer only competing with cafés and restaurants but competing with a Fortnite, or Roblox, or Netflix or TikTok. There’s a new generation of young customers who have extremely high expectations and a well-established aesthetic sensibility and taste level as a result of spending more time online.

The evolution has not been lost on department stores, which are competing to offer visitors transformational experiences.

La Samaritaine reopened last year after a 16-year renovation and teamed up with French audio technology company Devialet and aerospace firm ArianeGroup on what it dubbed a “sound journey to space.” Visitors entered a white sound-proofed cube where eight Phantom I Devialet speakers broadcast the sound of an Ariane 5 launch from Arianespace’s Guiana Space Center.

Selfridges touted “a new kind of retail therapy” with their Superself wellness event including experiences such as confidence coaching, breath work, sex therapy, and sensory pods promising “a safe trip.”

While the development of the metaverse is still in its early stages, retailers can’t afford to ignore its potential impact. Computing becomes spatial and is going to be a major shift. Retailers need to be investigating and investing in that space but it’s early to say what it will be like and what it will mean for retail.

Retailers get immersive as metaverse looms

What: Uniqlo announced the launch of its new 'Buy With Purpose' feature that highlights sustainable styles, while giving back. The new program is one of Uniqlo's latest efforts to extend its LifeWear philosophy of making good clothing and also a better planet and society for all.

Why it is important: The feature, bringing another ‘green’ label on the fashion market, rewards customers' purchases of certain items with a donation made from Uniqlo on the customer's behalf to one of three non-profit Uniqlo partner organizations.

Uniqlo introduces 'Buy With Purpose' feature 

What: Retail rents in Hong Kong are at decade lows as the territory looks to re-open from strict Covid-19 restrictions.

Why is it important: Tenants have already started renegotiating leases by exercising bargaining power ahead of a proposed law that will allow a moratorium on payments. Government pressure and the need to keep retailers’ businesses afloat have also prompted property owners to offer discounts.

Owners of malls and street shops are struggling to get rents back to pre-pandemic levels that made Hong Kong one of the world’s most expensive markets. That’s hurting a key source of income for developers at a time when the residential and office sectors are also under pressure following the government’s strict response to the health crisis.

Lawmakers are expected to pass a bill as soon as this month that will give tenants a three-month grace period on rental payments after Covid restrictions left stores shut or deserted and caused retail sales to plunge. Those that renew rents won’t be subject to the relief, giving them leverage to ask landlords for discounts instead.

While the government’s latest round of consumption vouchers distributed in early April are set to boost retail sales in the city, they may not be enough to lift all businesses out of their misery.

Hong Kong landlords brace for deeper cuts in retail rents

What: A reflection of the CEO of Harvey Nichols on her journey since day one.

Why it is important: Appointed 10 days before the pandemic, Malothra had to figure out by herself the means to face an unprecedented situation. The synergies with its shareholder based in Hong Kong and with previous experiences of pandemic proved quite helpful.

Harvey Nichols is owned by Dickson Group and represents eight stores in the UK and Ireland. Manju Malothra joined the company in 1998 as an audit manager, and climbed her way across the company since then, till joining the top position 10 days before the Covid hit in 2020.

For her, her inexperience at the job was compensated by the fact that she intimately knew the company, and that she, as other CEOs, had to face something entirely new, where creativity and resilience were more important than previous experience. In addition, Dickson Group, based in Hong Kong, already had experiences of pandemic, and could guide her into making the right decisions, such as closing stores before the government mandate and relocate stocks to its warehouses instead of stores.

Harvey Nichols posted a turnover of £121.3m in 2020 (year ending in March 2021), -45% compared to the previous year, and losses increased from £16.3m to £39.6m.

For Malothra, the death of department stores is a fable, as she mentions that Harvey Nichols, still seen as an authority in the country when it comes to Fashion, has competitive advantages: a curated offer, and a solid customer base.

Interview of Manju Malothra, CEO of Harvey Nichols 

What: Rent the Runway’s revenue is up from last year, with the number of active subscribers more than doubling, but both figures remain below pre-pandemic levels.

Why is it important: Despite improvement from 2020, Rent the Runway has yet to recover sales and active user count to pre-pandemic levels. Still, the platform expects to break even by the end of next year. Consumers have been slow to embrace rental over resale and fast fashion, two cheaper and easier alternatives.

Rent the Runway reported USD 203.3 million in sales for 2021, up 29% from the previous year, although still below its peak of USD 257 million in 2019. Active, those paying up to USD 149 a month to rent clothes, more than doubled to 115,240, but also remained below 2019 levels. The company fell deeper into the red, reporting a net loss of USD 211.8 million in 2021, compared to USD 157 million in 2019.

Even if there are enough shoppers looking for new outfits on a weekly basis, rental services have faced increased competition from resale sites, which similarly promise an endless wardrobe at a relatively affordable price. Shein and other online fast-fashion retailers offer complete outfits for under $20, cheap enough to be worn once and thrown out.

On a rental service, customers only have access to what’s available, and they must also return every piece they borrow. That means customers are spending hours perusing the website and visiting UPS about to drop off returns.

If Rent the Runway can continue to grow its membership while decreasing its cost of operation, it has a future. Rental can be a nice, niche business, not a billion-dollar business.

Rent the Runway’s journey to profitability

What: 86% of respondents said a delayed delivery was acceptable if it meant it was a more sustainable delivery.

Why is it important: A study shows 29% are willing to delay deliveries up to five days and 28% are willing to delay a week or more.

The pandemic has impacted the sustainable habits of shoppers with 44% of those polled saying their interest in shopping sustainably has increased since the start of the COVID-19 outbreak. 81% of those polled are recycling boxes and bags from shopping online and in a store half the time while 53% recycle between 75 and 100% of the time. 64% of respondents “are willing to spend more on sustainable packaging, with 44 percent willing to spend up to 5 percent more.”

Businesses can do more to implement practices that reduce waste and help the environment, companies are in a unique position “to start making smarter decisions that consider not only profit but the environment and humankind.”

Consumers say sustainable delays are OK

What: Facing slow traffic and sales, Inno has decided to benefit from the government measures put in place to deal with the health crisis. However, the entire network, owned by the German group Galeria Karstadt Kaufhof, keeps all its points of sale open.

Why it is important: Inno has not experienced a post-Covid recovery and is now facing another crisis with the war in Ukraine having an impact on inflation, oil prices and energy. As a result, Belgian consumers are rather cautious.

Half of the sales staff and a quarter of executives (altogether roughly 700 people) are affected by temporary leave until the end of June, except for the week of May 2, during which the 125th anniversary of the department store will be celebrated. Unemployed employees will be paid 70% of their salary.

Half of Belgian department store's Inno staff on temporary leave (French)

What: The success of its Goodmove brand has prompted M&S to open a pop-up space for the activewear range in London’s Covent Garden.

Why is it important: M&S described the opening as a “significant standalone moment” for the brand, which launched online and in-store in January 2020, becoming the retailer’s best-selling own brand, with 1.6 million items sold annually.

The pop-up at Covent Garden will operate until 23 April, showcasing Goodmove’s spring/summer 2022 collection across womenswear, menswear, and childrenswear as well as host a variety of free classes and talks.

M&S to open a Goodmove pop-up space 

What: After the Paris flagship store received a modern makeover, the French fashion house is opening a sprawling pop-up store in Seoul housed in a metallic mesh structure recalling the facade of its historic headquarters in Paris.

Why it is important: The 7,500-square-foot complex, seen as the next generation of pop-up stores, is located in the former industrial zone of Seongsu-dong, which has become a popular area filled with craft coffee and organic restaurants.

The temporary structure is due to remain in place for several years, evolving with the seasons and collections. When it opens on May 1, the store will offer the pre-fall collection designed by Maria Grazia Chiuri, artistic director of womenswear, one day after its runway debut at the city’s Ewha Womans University.

The store’s decor will feature original furniture pieces by South Korean designers The house’s signature toile de Jouy motif is printed on traditional Hanji paper, made by mixing mulberry fiber and natural wood pulp.

For the Café Dior backdrop, Dior collaborated with Korean digital design company D’strict on images inspired by the lush gardens of founder Christian Dior’s childhood home in the French seaside town of Granville.

Dior to open a pop-up complex in Seoul

What: Neiman Marcus partnered with women-founded NFT project 'Boss Beauties' to unveil Neiman's co-founder NFT among the new "role models" collection on International Women's Day.

Why is it important: In honor of Women's History Month, Neiman Marcus, a woman co-founded luxury retailer, announced new activations and initiatives to support the next generation of women leaders through partnerships with both Runway of Dreams and Boss Beauties.

The new "Role Models" NFT collection, is designed to share the story of women who have shattered the glass ceiling throughout history and inspire the next generation of women and girls. The assortment featuring 25 one-of-a-kinds NFT's will be launched March 9-12 on OpenSea and includes an NFT of Neiman Marcus co-founder Carrie Marcus Neiman alongside other female leaders such as Ruth Bader Ginsburg, Katherine Johnson, and Frida Kahlo.

Neiman Marcus partners with NFT Project 'Boss Beauties'

What: John Lewis updates its customer promise out of concerns for its brand perception in a moment when cost of living becomes an issue for UK customers.

Why it is important: John Lewis’ promise has been enforced for almost a century. Analysts are concerns it might impact the corporate culture and staff might feel that they are becoming like ‘any other shop’.

John Lewis will retire its “Never knowingly undersold” promise this summer and will invest £500m into a new customer pledge aiming at offering “quality at great value prices”, out of concerns for the increasing cost of living in the UK.

For the retailer, the previous pledge is not reassuring customers enough and does not guarantee trust. It is also presented as a proactive move and not a reaction to other retailers’ prices cuts. The pledge had been introduced in 1925.

The £500m investment represents an increase of +25% compared to the amount John Lewis spends on keeping prices affordable. It aims to guarantee great quality at great prices both online and offline.

The new customer pledge also hopes to capitalize on the “Anyday” range, the most affordable private label range of products available at John Lewis, which is also here to reassure customers. Prices are even advertised in TV spots.

John Lewis introduces a new pledge to customers 

What: The Bay has dropped products made in Russia and Belarus from its stores and its marketplace website, 200 items in all, in response to the Russian invasion of Ukraine.

Why is it important: In response to the crisis in Ukraine, The Bay dropped Russian products, and The Hudson’s Bay Foundation, donated $100,000 to the Canadian Red Cross’ Ukraine Humanitarian Crisis Appeal. The foundation is also encouraging Canadians to donate their Hudson’s Bay Rewards points, which will be converted into cash and donated to the Canadian Red Cross to provide aid to impacted Ukrainian communities.

The Foundation will match these donations, up to an additional $100,000. The points donations will be accepted through March 31, 2022.

The Bay removes products made in Russia and Belarus

What: Nike Inc. beat quarterly revenue estimates on Monday, helped by robust holiday demand for its sports shoes and apparel in North America.

Why it is important: Despite doubts from investors about the retailer’s performance due to continued store shutdowns due to Covid in China, major factory shutdowns in Vietnam, and the pull out of business in Russia, Nike was able to boost sales in North America.

Nike’s shares rose 4.4 percent to $136 in extended trading.

Sports and casual apparel have become a more intrinsic part of everyday fashion since the onset of the pandemic, as people ditch office attire for sweatpants and joggers, boosting sales at Nike and rivals such as Under Armour and Adidas.

Nike’s sales in North America, its largest market, jumped 9 percent in the company’s third quarter, also boosted by the return of school sports and price increases.

Nike beats quarterly revenue estimates boosted by North America demand

Supply Chain Woes Accelerate Change at Nike 

What: Neiman Marcus pledged to phase out animal fur last June and will stop selling it entirely in March 2023,  replacing it with alternatives such as apple leather.

Why is it important: NGM’s CEO stated that the group has already halved its fur inventory and they are keen to prove to those customers that they are “replacing something, not taking something away”.

Alongside its fur ban, the group has committed to increasing its revenue from sustainable and ethical products by 2025. NMG says it extended the life of 350,000 items in 2021 through circular fashion services including alterations, restoration and resale. Part of this positive framing is the transformation of NMG’s 22 in-store fur salons into alterations bars and circular fashion hubs, where customers can access customisation, refurbishment and even resale, a process that is already underway. The group will continue to offer fur storage, restoration and cleaning services – to keep existing garments in circulation for as long as possible and avoid them going to landfills.

Macy’s and Bloomingdale’s have been fur-free since the end of 2020, while Saks Fifth Avenue will stop selling fur by the end of 2022. However, finding plant-based materials that match the quality and feel of fur is posing a significant challenge, as is bringing along on the journey brands and consumers, particularly the most loyal, high-spending clients.

Neiman Marcus replaces fur with apple leather 

What: Smiley collaborates with Nordstrom and luxury designers to celebrate 50 years of the smiley face.

Why is it important: The Smiley Company created a limited-edition collection of 50th-anniversary products, for sale in stores around the world, including 10 Nordstrom JWN department stores and Galeries Lafayette department stores in Paris, Beijing, and Shanghai.

The pop-in shops will sell apparel, beauty, home decor, and lifestyle products from 30 different brands.

Nordstrom celebrates the smiley face’s 50th birthday

What: Shipt, the delivery company owned by Target, has partnered with Walgreens (health and wellness retailer) and 7-Eleven (convenience chains) to increase the number of retail locations where its service is available by more than 40%.

Why it is important: Walgreens and 7-Eleven further build out Shipt's range of retailers for customers to choose from. The expansion also proves that Target’s investment in delivery services was wise as the market continues to expand.

Shipt currently works with more than 140 retailers and has tripled its network of shoppers since 2020. Shipt is working towards getting on the same playing field as rivals such as Instacart, DoorDash, and Postmates.

Target-owned delivery company expands nationwide

What: Macy’s, which came almost short of cash before the pandemic, had to raise USD $4.5 bn in 2020 to survive.

Why it is important: The excellent sales results allow the company to start recuperating and refinancing the debt, freeing up capabilities to invest in future capabilities.

Macy’s is revising its debt structure and paying back some debts on the back of strong earnings. In order to weather the Covid-19 back in 2020, the company raised USD $4.5 bn, of which USD $852 mn are expected to be refinanced next week and another USD $280 mn in debt maturing in 2032 the latest, meaning that the company will not have any significant maturity after this year.

The financial policy of the company is of course to get rid of the debt generated during the Covid-19 pandemic, and shift capital into investments able to support future growth.

Macy’s shifts focus to investments after paying down Covid debt 

What: Printemps unveiled a new logo and brand identity as it prepares to launch its biggest marketing push in seven years so it will once again be part of the conversation.

Why is it important: “Tout commence au Printemps,” which translates as “Everything starts at Printemps” but is also a play on the name of the store, which means “spring” in French, will be launched as a nationwide advertising campaign for their new look and brand identity.

A two-day Festival de Printemps, featuring music performances, food stands, street art, and cheerleaders, will take place March 19th and 20th, coinciding with the arrival of spring in the Northern Hemisphere. A luminous floral design will be displayed on its facade, as well as immersive window displays, including two interactive windows equipped with digital sensors. Meanwhile, the retailer is unveiling eight new concepts, from beauty to vintage watches, at its Boulevard Haussmann flagship in Paris.

The redesigned printemps.com site, featuring the brand’s new green, white and gold colour scheme, and stylised letter “P,” will feature new functionalities including a simplified checkout system, the launch of a second-hand offer, and a section curated by 40 personal shoppers. It will also host a virtual boutique, where buyers will automatically enter a draw to win 30 NFTs designed with French artist Romain Froquet.

The restaurant offer has been reimagined. Elsewhere in the department store, the historic Maria Luisa concession has been rebranded as L’Endroit featuring 35 brands, including eight new labels for spring. There is a new 2,150-square-foot section dedicated to items from previous seasons, segmented by colour. New partnerships include a tie-up with Watchfinder & Co. on a selection of pre-owned timepieces, and a collaboration with Los Angeles-based digital fashion start-up DressX on a pop-up that will feature five products designed exclusively for Printemps.

The last time Printemps disclosed annual sales was for the fiscal year ending in March 2019, where revenues totaled EUR 1.7 bn euros. It will take another two or three years before Printemps returns to that level, noting that footfall is down 30% since 2018.

E-commerce sales in the last 12 months were up 31% versus fiscal 2020, while omnichannel revenues rose 52%. The group has seen a 10% acceleration of sales to local customers since 2020, and a return of foreign visitors. Between October and December, sales to U.S. customers rose 53% versus in 2019, while those from Europe and the Middle East registered a 23% bump.

Printemps rebrands 

What: Buzzfeed, the US-based website, is venturing into physical retail through new stores in US airports.

Why it is important: Every brand is now going into retail to monetize its customer’s awareness. This can be seen both as a threat by traditional retailers, or an opportunity as this could be bringing a new proposal and generate interesting partnerships.

Buzzfeed, the digital media company known for personality quizzes or Tasty videos, has teamed up with Stellar Partners, a travel retail operator, in order to launch Buzzfeed News-branded convenience stores in airports across the US.

The stores will support local businesses and stock up magazines, travel supplies, snacks, beauty products, lifestyle items, and will also allow to stay connected with the world by checking the latest news and entertainment on Buzzfeed monitors throughout the store.

The goal is to “utilise the data-driven research and insights to give consumers a curated travel experience”.

Buzzfeed is moving into physical retail 

What: Macy’s has committed to spend USD 5 billion by 2025 on efforts to ‘create a more equitable and sustainable future’.

Why it is important: The social purpose initiative plan ‘Mission Every One’ was created to drive social change in three main pillars for the upcoming years: communities, people, and the planet.

Macy’s has outlined their investment plan for each pillar:

•    People: will be investing in underrepresented designers, brands and partners across its namesake and Bloomingdale's brands. They will also invest in education benefits for their employees and boost minimum hourly pay to $15 per hour by May 1 of this year.

•    Communities: Macy’s has announced that they will be investing another USD 2 million to support scholarships for underrepresented youth in fashion, design and sustainability programs. Additionally, they will be donating more than USD 100 million to nonprofit organizations.

•    Planet: This pillar is focused on incorporating more sustainably sourced raw materials and fibers into its private brands, and investing in means of reducing, reusing and repurposing materials to eliminate waste.

Macy's stated that its movements towards a more inclusive future is "enterprise-wide" and that the company wants to leverage its position in the industry to make larger changes in the world.

Macy’s announces commitment to spend USD 5 billion on social responsibility efforts 

What: Nordstrom is expanding its advertising opportunities for brand partners through the Nordstrom Media Network, further building on the strengths of the digital-first platform.

Why it is important: Nordstrom Media Network is its advertising program that allows brand partners to connect directly with 32 million Nordstrom customers to drive traffic, sales, and customer engagement. The program enables brands to share their brand story and advertise on Nordstrom’s digital platforms.

On-site channels include sponsored product ads and brand pages. Off-site channels include paid social and display ads, YouTube videos, search and shopping ads, and affiliate campaigns.

Looking ahead, the retailer plans to expand ad placements on Nordstrom.com and NordstromRack.com and to improve reporting and targeting capabilities.

Nordstrom expands its retail media network

What: Brands like Adidas, Gucci, and The Hundreds are finding that NFT tokens are a great way to reward their superfans.

Why is it important: NFTs offer brands a way to extend holders’ unique privileges, creating a means to foster and reward customer loyalty. Since NFTs still function as high-priced speculative assets, the customer relationship can take work to manage but, the efforts show they could have a place in fashion beyond being just collectibles.

Because NFTs can act as unique identifiers for their owners, similar to an email address but with added features because of the programmable smart contracts underlying them, brands can use them to extend privileges and perks, including freebies and exclusive access to new products.

The Hundreds’ NFT program has been successful because it has created a genuine sense of shared ownership with ABS members. Earlier this year, the brand started issuing members royalties on sales when they used their bombs in products. For now, that means store credit to spend with the brand to avoid running afoul of security regulations.

Brands using NFTs to keep customers hooked