News
Neiman Marcus Group cites slowdown and cautious luxury consumers in Q1
Neiman Marcus Group cites slowdown and cautious luxury consumers in Q1
What: Neiman Marcus Group reported a decline in both revenues and profitability in Q1 compared to the previous year.
Why it is important: Neiman Marcus’s financial decline in its fiscal first quarter highlights the challenges in the luxury sector.
EBITDA dropped to USD 95 million from USD 112 million in the prior-year period. Sales also decreased to USD 948 million from USD 1.034 billion in the previous year. Same-store sales fell by 8% in the last quarter. The company attributes the decline in cash to working capital needs and deliberate investments in store improvements, digital upgrades, and strategic initiatives. Neiman Marcus Group remains profitable and has a healthy inventory position.
The CEO of Neiman Marcus Group expects a steady Black Friday weekend and acknowledges the challenges of a volatile macro environment and increased promotional activities in the luxury sector.
Neiman Marcus Group cites slowdown and cautious luxury consumers in Q1
Luxury: the decline of multi-brand e-tailers
Luxury: the decline of multi-brand e-tailers
What: The recent Altagamma & Bain report on luxury shows that physical stores are making a comeback at the expense of mutlibrand online players.
Why it is important: Department stores remains important places of interaction and discovery, especially in the luxury market, and have a card to play here.
After the pandemic, physical luxury retail stores are experiencing a resurgence, overshadowing online purchases, particularly from multi-brand e-tailers, which are now in decline. The pandemic initially boosted e-tail, favoring multi-brand platforms. However, as life returns to normal, physical mono-brand stores are thriving due to increased socialization and tourism, while digital channels are plateauing.
Luxury brands are opening fewer new stores, instead expanding and enhancing existing ones, turning them into experiential, cultural destinations. E-tail is now more a digital service supporting physical stores, with integrated online and offline customer experiences.
This renewed interest in physical stores is notably strong among younger consumers, especially Millennials, who are driving the duty-free luxury goods market through in-person shopping. Gen Z, a growing segment in the luxury market, also shows a preference for experiential, in-store shopping over online purchases.
Luxury brands are increasingly promoting their own e-shops, reducing reliance on multi-brand e-tailers and discount resale markets. This shift has impacted the profitability of e-tailers, who are also facing the burden of promotional costs previously covered by traditional retailers. Some e-tailers like MyTheresa remain successful, but others, like Farfetch, have seen significant declines.
To adapt, pure-play e-tailers need to revise their business models, focusing on cost control and flexible, innovative purchasing solutions through digital tools.
Hyundai retail division reshuffles its leadership
Hyundai retail division reshuffles its leadership
What: Hyundai is renewing 3 CEOs within its retail subsidiaries including the department store one.
Why it is important: Hyundai feels the urge to inject fresh blood in their structure in order to adapt faster to new market conditions.
Hyundai Department Store Group has undertaken a significant leadership reshuffle, affecting 40 high-ranking executives across its subsidiaries, including appointing Jeoung Ji-young as the new President and CEO of its department store division.
The changes, which are smaller in scale than the previous year's, are aimed at introducing change within a stable framework, focusing on areas essential for future growth.
This move comes after a two-year period without major changes in subsidiary leadership. The reshuffle reflects the broader sense of urgency within Korea's "Big 3" retailers to adapt to a retail landscape transformed by the rise of e-commerce and altered consumer behaviours post-Covid. Shinsegae Group has already made substantial changes in September, and Lotte Group is anticipated to follow suit with its own executive changes to tackle performance issues.
Central Group takes control of Selfridges following Signa restructuring
Central Group takes control of Selfridges following Signa restructuring
What: Central Group has acquired majority control of Selfridges, following the restructuring of its joint venture partner Signa Holdings.
Why it is important: Central Group exercised its right to convert a loan into equity, subject to regulatory approvals. This move solidifies Central Group's position as the owner-operator of the largest European luxury department store group, including Selfridges in the UK, Brown Thomas and Arnotts in Ireland, and De Bijenkorf in the Netherlands.
The company is also continuing the support of the properties it owns with Signa: the Selfridges group of stores in the UK, Ireland and the Netherlands, as well as KaDeWe in Germany, and Globus in Switzerland.
The deal for Selfridges was made in partnership with Signa two years ago, with each company taking a 50% stake in the retailer. Central Group's focus now remains on obtaining regulatory approval and completing the takeover.
Central Group takes control of Selfridges following Signa restructuring
Liz Rodbell named President and CEO of Hudson’s Bay
Liz Rodbell named President and CEO of Hudson’s Bay
What: Liz Rodbell has been appointed as the President and CEO of the Hudson's Bay division in Canada, returning to the company after working as a consultant and serving as Steve Madden's group president of retail.
Why it is important: Liz Rodbell brings her extensive retail experience and success, signalling a focus on customer satisfaction and driving growth.
During her previous tenure at Hudson's Bay, she drove a 22% increase in sales. According to Richard Baker, the governor and executive chairman of HBC, Rodbell's focus will be on providing a relevant assortment, strong brand partnerships, and an inspiring shopping experience for customers.
Michael Culhane has also been appointed as the Chief Operating Officer and Chief Financial Officer of Hudson's Bay.
Hong Kong retail rents to see one of the highest increases in Asia over next five years
Hong Kong retail rents to see one of the highest increases in Asia over next five years
What: A US asset management company foresees that Hong Kong will recover in the next 5 years.
Why it is important: Hong Kong has many strategic assets as a shopping destination which explains why there is still a lot of room for clever retailers there.
Hong Kong's prime retail rents are expected to grow by at least 3% annually over the next five years, the second-highest increase in the Asia-Pacific region, according to a PGIM Real Estate report. This growth, led only by Tokyo's projected 4% increase, is anticipated due to a rebound in tourism and steady economic growth in Hong Kong. In the first nine months of the year, retail sales in Hong Kong surged by 18.6%, and tourist arrivals skyrocketed, with a significant portion coming from mainland China and a growing number from Southeast Asia.
Despite this growth, the recovery in tourist spending lags behind arrivals, with spending in the first half of the year only at 55% and 18% of 2018 levels for overnight and same-day visitors, respectively. This lag contributes to Hong Kong's main shopping districts falling in global retail rent rankings. Tsim Sha Tsui remains the most expensive retail destination in Asia-Pacific but has dropped to third globally.
The report suggests that the recovery in mainland China's economy will positively impact Hong Kong's retail sector. However, risks such as a potential slowdown in China's economy and geopolitical tensions could impede the sector's growth. The strength of the US dollar, to which the Hong Kong dollar is pegged, also affects tourist spending patterns.
Hong Kong retail rents to see one of the highest increases in Asia over next five years
Decathlon opens in RemsPark Waiblingen
Decathlon opens in RemsPark Waiblingen
What: Decathlon is set to open a new branch in RemsPark Waiblingen on December 7th.
Why it is important: With this new branch, Decathlon aims to serve customers in the Rems-Murr district and expand its reach in the greater Stuttgart area.
The store will cover a sales area of 2,000 square meters and will employ around 30 employees. The branch will offer a wide range of sporting goods, including items for mountain and winter sports, team sports, cyclists, and fitness enthusiasts. A separate area will be dedicated to fitness equipment, where customers can test the latest products on-site.
The branch will provide additional services such as Click & Collect and a buy-back service for used products, which will be resold at reduced prices. A service point will be available for small repairs, racket coverings, jersey flocking, and other services. The branch will also offer ski binding adjustments and a ski and snowboard drop-off and maintenance service.
Retailers invest in innovative ways to drive customer loyalty
Retailers invest in innovative ways to drive customer loyalty
What: WWD takes stock of the WDSS in Dubai that the IADS attended early October.
Why it is important: The WDSS is a yearly meeting point for department store leaders and a must-do for anyone interested in department stores
At the World Department Store Summit, it was evident that post-COVID-19 consumer behavior has undergone a permanent shift, with higher expectations for speed, convenience, and flexible payment and delivery options. Retail and brand executives are adapting to this new landscape, emphasizing the need to understand and cater to these evolving demands.
Holger Blecker of German department store Breuninger highlighted the rapid change in customer behavior, which has accelerated since the pandemic. Similarly, Dimas Gimeno of El Corte Ingles, now leading Wow Concept, is focusing on merging digital with physical retail experiences.
The summit revealed a trend towards more online engagement, with Khalid Al Tayer of Al Tayer Insignia noting a significant shift to e-commerce in the Middle East. His company's luxury e-commerce platform, Ounass, has become a dominant force in the region by focusing on luxury convenience.
Technology and data analytics are key components in understanding and enhancing customer relationships. Brands like Zegna are investing in data science and AI to create personalized experiences for clients, aiming for a "share of life" rather than just "share of wallet."
Physical stores are still seen as valuable, with new approaches like exclusive 'secret stores' and experiential offerings. Pete Nordstrom of Nordstrom highlighted the value of leveraging website data for brand partnerships and advertising, creating a symbiotic relationship between brands and department stores.
In summary, the retail landscape is rapidly evolving with a greater emphasis on digital integration, personalized customer experiences, and leveraging technology to stay connected and relevant to consumers' changing lifestyles and preferences.
Retailers invest in innovative ways to drive customer loyalty
Walmart adding parcel stations for faster delivery, greater density
Walmart adding parcel stations for faster delivery, greater density
What: Walmart is introducing parcel stations in its stores to enhance last-mile delivery efficiency.
Why it is important: These parcel stations help Walmart build density into its last-mile delivery process, reducing costs and improving margins in the competitive e-commerce market.
These mini post offices within the stores will receive and deliver packages, providing customers with more time to place online orders for next-day delivery. The company plans to have over 40 parcel stations in operation by the end of the year. The packages from Walmart's fulfillment centers are transported to these stations using their private fleet and are then delivered to customers' homes through independent contractors or third-party carriers.
Walmart's Spark Driver network is also contributing to increased density by making deliveries from nearby stores and for other retailers through Walmart GoLocal. The retailer has succeeded in reducing store-to-home delivery costs by 15% and is working towards faster same-day delivery times.
Walmart adding parcel stations for faster delivery, greater density
KaDeWe attacked by Russian hackers
KaDeWe attacked by Russian hackers
What: KaDeWe successfully defended against a cyber attack from the Russian hacker collective, Play.
Why it is important: The recent cyber attack KaDeWe highlights the importance of robust cybersecurity measures and the need for constant vigilance against potential threats.
The attack occurred on November 2, prompting KaDeWe to implement emergency measures and take certain operations offline. However, the store reassured customers that credit card payment systems remained secure.
KaDeWe is currently working with German cybercrime authorities to assess the extent of the attack and determine if customer information systems were breached. The department store group already had security measures in place, which helped contain the attack. Investigations are ongoing to determine if any data was stolen.
The attack comes at a time when KaDeWe Group is facing challenges, including the decline in real estate values and the potential collapse of Austrian property developer Signa, which owns a minority stake in KaDeWe.
Jeff Gennette on the future of Macy’s Inc., malls and himself
Jeff Gennette on the future of Macy’s Inc., malls and himself
What: Macy's Inc. CEO Jeff Gennette announced his retirement, effective February 2024 and discusses a transformation strategy called Polaris that he will leave for his successor, Tony Spring.
Why it is important: Understanding the future direction and strategies of Macy's Inc., including the focus on off-mall specialty stores and the importance of diversity and inclusion, is crucial for investors, employees, and industry stakeholders.
Spring's main challenge is to consistently grow Macy's Inc.'s profitability and avoid losing market share. To achieve this, the company plans to open more scaled-down off-mall specialty stores and off-price formats while closing some traditional department stores in malls. Macy's Inc. will also introduce a small-format store concept with 30 new locations planned by 2025.
Gennette emphasized the importance of diversity, equity, and inclusion (DEI) in the company's agenda and the need to attract more young talent to the retail industry.
The company is focused on managing its brick-and-mortar footprint, with some department store closures expected alongside the expansion of off-mall specialty stores. Gennette stated that there are healthy malls that will thrive but also acknowledged that others will decline over time. He described the pandemic as a tough period for the company, but Macy's emerged stronger by improving its financials and navigating the e-commerce surge.
Gennette also mentioned the company's commitment to sustainability and equality, highlighting the USD 5 billion Mission Every One program launched to support sustainability and diversity initiatives. He expressed pride in his team's efforts to bring DEI to the forefront of Macy's Inc.'s agenda and create a culture where employees can bring their authentic selves to work.
Jeff Gennette on the future of Macy’s Inc., malls and himself
John Lewis kicks off Black Friday sale ‘earlier than ever’
John Lewis kicks off Black Friday sale ‘earlier than ever’
What: John Lewis has kicked off its Black Friday sale earlier than ever, offering discounts on various products throughout the whole month of November.
Why it is important: The department store aims to support customers in spreading the cost of Christmas by providing a longer sales period.
The retailer's executive director, Naomi Simcock, stated that they are abandoning the traditional one-weekend Black Friday event in favour of offering discounts all month long. The move comes as more Britons begin their Christmas planning a month ahead of time. Sales of Christmas ranges at John Lewis have already seen a 10% YoY increase in October, and the store's festive department has experienced a 13% rise in visitor numbers.
Simon raises outlook after solid Q3
Simon raises outlook after solid Q3
What: Simon posted strong financial and operational performance in the third quarter.
Why it is important: Simon's solid third-quarter metrics showcase their strong financial performance and growth potential in the real estate investment sector.
Their net income attributable to common stockholders was USD 594.1 million, compared to USD 539 million in the previous year. Simon raised its guidance for the year and expects net income to be in the range of USD 6.67 to USD 6.77 per diluted share. Funds from operations (FFO) increased to USD 1.2 billion, or USD 3.20 per diluted share. Domestic property net operating income (NOI) and portfolio NOI both saw positive growth compared to the prior year period. Simon also increased its quarterly common stock dividend by 5.6% year-over-year.
The CEO highlighted that they have outperformed their peer group and are well-positioned to continue growing their business. Simon mentioned that while outlets and full-price malls have seen good tenant sales growth, luxury sales flattened out in the third quarter. Simon is confident in their ability to attract and retain tenants and continue to invest in redevelopment projects.
Saks to lay off 90 employees at Pennsylvania fulfillment center
Saks to lay off 90 employees at Pennsylvania fulfillment center
What: Saks Fifth Avenue plans to lay off 90 employees and shut down its fulfillment center in Wilkes-Barre, Pennsylvania next year.
Why it is important: The closure of the fulfillment center will not impact the operations of Saks Fifth Avenue and Saks Off 5th stores.
According to a Worker Adjustment and Retraining Notification (WARN) Act notice, the job cuts will begin on January 6 and continue with a second round on March 26. Saks will transfer the center's workload to other locations within its fulfillment network, as the Wilkes-Barre facility has become redundant. Employees were notified about the impending layoffs in September.
Saks to lay off 90 employees at Pennsylvania fulfillment center
Selfridges shareholder Signa files for insolvency just weeks after stake sale
Selfridges shareholder Signa files for insolvency just weeks after stake sale
What: Signa, has filed for insolvency after failing to raise additional funds.
Why it is important: The company cited a lack of necessary liquidity and severe economic pressure as the reasons for its financial struggles.
Restructuring experts may consider selling Signa's stakes in an effort to generate funds, potentially leading to a new landlord for Selfridges. However, Selfridges confirmed that it continues to operate normally and has the ongoing support of Central Group.
Selfridges shareholder Signa files for insolvency just weeks after stake sale
Will Mumbai have its own version of 5th Avenue?
Will Mumbai have its own version of 5th Avenue?
What: BOF reviews the current situation of luxury shopping in Mumbai and how it could evolve in the coming years.
Why it is important: Mumbai is the next hotspot on the planet and many department store companies including IADS member Galeries Lafayette intend to become significant players there.
Jio World Plaza, a new luxury mega mall in Mumbai, has officially opened after 4 years of construction. It is part of Indian billionaire Mukesh Ambani's Reliance Industries.
The opening coincides with India emerging as a major luxury market, with rapid wealth creation and Indians spending more domestically due to capital controls. The mall includes 750,000 square feet of retail space and houses the first Indian stores for brands like Rimowa, Balenciaga, and Valentino. Major brands like Louis Vuitton and Gucci also have large stores there.
Historically, the lack of high-quality retail spaces has been a challenge for luxury brands expanding in India. Jio World Plaza aims to address this. While impressive, however, the mall lacks local flavor and could be anywhere globally.
In contrast, the old South Mumbai district is developing into a luxury hub with more local character. Luxury brands like Hermès, Sabyasachi, and soon Galeries Lafayette are opening stores there. If more luxury brands open stores around Horniman Circle in South Mumbai, it could become India's equivalent of Bond Street or Fifth Avenue.
For now, Jio World Plaza dominates as a luxury destination in Mumbai and finally gives luxury shoppers a world-class mall, but South Mumbai may eventually rival it by offering a more distinct luxury shopping experience.
Kohl’s posts Q3 declines
Kohl’s posts Q3 declines
What: Kohl’s reported a decline in net income for the quarter ending October 28.
Why it is important: Kohl's decline in net income and sales reflects the current performance of the company and its impact on the retail industry.
Their net income fell to USD 59 million, beating expectations of 35 cents per diluted share. Operating income was USD 157 million, down from USD 200 million the previous year. Net sales decreased by 5.2% year-over-year to USD 3.8 billion, with comparable sales down 5.5 percent. Kohl's raised its forecast for diluted earnings per share for the year to USD 2.30 to USD 2.70, excluding any non-recurring charges, and adjusted the sales forecast to a decrease of 2.8 to 4 percent
The company highlighted strong performance in Sephora and growth in home and gifting initiatives. Kohl's also made strategic investments in stores to improve performance, and it predicted that Sephora would become a USD 2 billion business at Kohl's by 2025.
Globus stores are endangered by Signa’s woes
Globus stores are endangered by Signa’s woes
What: Signa’s bankrupcy might endanger Globus department stores.
Why it is important: Switzerland is a relatively small country for 3 chains of department stores. Any capitalistic move might durably change the retail landscape.
The future of the Globus department stores, part of René Benko's Signa Group, is increasingly uncertain. While Globus reportedly has enough liquidity to manage through the Christmas period, its future beyond that is unclear. According to Inside Paradeplatz, key divisions of Signa may have to declare bankruptcy unless Benko can secure 500 million Swiss francs to stabilize his empire, which seems unlikely.
Since being sold by Migros four years ago, Globus, operating under "Magazine zum Globus AG," is 50% owned by Signa, with the remaining half held by Thailand's Central Group. There had been talks of selling Signa's share to its Thai partner, but the complex structure managing Globus has made this difficult.
Notably, Globus' retail operations are part of Signa Retail Selection AG, while its real estate assets, including the iconic Zurich building, are under another division, European Industry Holding AG. NZZ am Sonntag raised questions about the valuation of the Zurich property in Signa's accounts, which appears high given the revenue it generates. However, according to experts and sources, Globus' retail operations are profitable.
Kohl’s announces board transition, appoints new chair and independent director
Kohl’s announces board transition, appoints new chair and independent director
What: Kohl's has announced a board transition, with Peter Boneparth retiring from his role as board chair at the end of his term, to be replaced by Michael Bender.
Why it is important: The board's choice of new executives is part of Kohl's ongoing effort to refresh its board with experienced leaders and enhance diversity.
Boneparth has served as a Kohl's director for 15 years and will retire in May 2024. Michael Bender, who has been on Kohl's board since 2019, will assume the position of board chair. Adolfo Villagomez has been appointed as a new independent director, bringing over two decades of leadership and retail experience to the Kohl's team. He will initially serve on the Audit Committee. With Villagomez's appointment, the board now consists of 12 directors, with 11 of them being independent.
Walmart invests over USD 500M to upgrade 117 stores
Walmart invests over USD 500M to upgrade 117 stores
What: Walmart's investments of over USD 500 million to upgrade 117 of its stores across 30 states as part of a larger plan to modernize over 1,400 stores in the US, with a total investment of more than USD 9 billion over two years.
Why it is important: Walmart's construction investments in store upgrades will create more local jobs and make it easier for associates to meet customer demands.
The upgraded stores feature improved layouts, wider product selections, and various technological enhancements as part of Walmart's "Signature Experience" initiative to enhance the shopping experience. Some of the improvements include interactive corner displays, larger pharmacies, rooms for nursing parents, QR codes and digital screens with helpful information for shoppers, and a Dollar Shop with seasonal products. Walmart considers its network of brick-and-mortar locations to be key nodes in its omnichannel operations.
The company aims to serve customers better by offering larger online grocery pickup and delivery areas, a grab-and-go section for quick meal options, refreshed exteriors and interiors, and a new checkout design based on customer feedback.
E-commerce to be 41% of global retail sales by 2027 says BCG
E-commerce to be 41% of global retail sales by 2027 says BCG
What: According to Boston Consulting Group, e-commerce is projected to account for 41% of global retail sales by 2027, a substantial increase from its 18% share in 2017.
Why it is important: The study highlights the lasting transformation in the e-commerce landscape due to the COVID-19 pandemic, with increasing rivalry between emerging entrants and established incumbents.
BCG's report, "Winning Formulas for E-Commerce Growth," is based on a global survey of 410 retail companies and 415 consumer packaged goods (CPG) companies, encompassing revenues ranging from USD 50 million to over USD 10 billion.
In 2022, e-commerce sales in Europe increased by 3%, while the US and Asia saw a 7% growth. The global e-commerce market is anticipated to achieve a compound annual growth rate of 9% through 2027, doubling the projected growth of physical stores, which is expected to be only 4%.
E-commerce to be 41% of global retail sales by 2027 says BCG
WOW Concept on Serrano Street opened in the middle of the Christmas campaign
WOW Concept on Serrano Street opened in the middle of the Christmas campaign
What: The new WOW Concept store, located on Madrid's prestigious Serrano Street, opened during the Christmas campaign.
Why it is important: This is the second location for the WOW Concept, with the first store opening on Madrid's Gran Vía in 2022.
Dimas Gimeno, the former president of El Corte Inglés and the executive president of WOW Concept, described the location as ideal due to its prime position and high footfall.
The store occupies the space formerly used by El Corte Inglés and spreads across seven floors, covering 6,400 square meters. The store focuses on contemporaneity and showcases premium brands, complementing the local fashion landscape. It offers a wide range of women's and men's fashion, including sneakers and urban fashion. The store also features dedicated areas for beauty, home, tech, and sportswear brands.
WOW Concept on Serrano Street opened in the middle of the Christmas campaign
UK retailers increase Black Friday discounts while customers cut spending
UK retailers increase Black Friday discounts while customers cut spending
What: Inflation is pinching custolmers’ morale in the UK.
Why it is important: Retailers are faced with the dilemma to offload their stocks at the expense of their margins, or to lose customers.
UK consumer spending on gifts and festivities is projected to decrease, with PwC estimating a fall from £23bn in 2022 to £20bn this year. There's a notable divergence in consumer confidence across age groups and income levels.
Retailers have also adapted to changing consumer behavior, noticing customers making more considered purchases and seeking greater value. Despite offering significant discounts, interest in Black Friday has waned, with PwC reporting a drop in consumer interest from 61% in 2022 to 44% in 2023. This decline is partly attributed to consumers spreading out their savings over the year and growing skepticism about the real value of Black Friday deals.
However, there's a slight improvement in consumer confidence in November, despite ongoing cost of living concerns. Analysts expect certain retail categories, like groceries, to perform better than others during the festive season. Online retailers offering a wide range of deals are predicted to remain popular among consumers. eBay UK has observed that shoppers are becoming savvier, selling items to fund their Christmas purchases and showing interest in refurbished products from well-known brands as a cost-effective alternative to buying new.
UK retailers increase Black Friday discounts while customers cut spending
Nordstrom Inc. goes into black for Q3
Nordstrom Inc. goes into black for Q3
What: Nordstrom Inc. reported a net earnings of USD 67 million for Q3, a significant improvement from a net loss of USD 20 million in Q3 2022.
Why it is important: The profiitable Q3 report provides insights into Nordstrom’s strategies, challenges, and priorities for improvement in the retail industry.
This was attributed to improved execution and a positive impact from the timing of their Anniversary Sale. Net sales decreased by 6.8% and GMV decreased by 7.1%, with a negative impact from the wind-down of Canadian operations.
Nordstrom's priorities include improving Rack, increasing inventory productivity, and optimizing the supply chain. They see opportunities for growth in their Rack stores and plan to enhance the assortment of great brands at great prices. The company aims to curate the offer using data capabilities and deliver a strong holiday season with a relevant assortment of brands and products. Nordstrom's women's business is a focus area for improvement, with investments in their own label program.
