IADS Exclusive – One door: how single-location department stores defy retail expansion logic

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May 2026
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Christine Montard
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In an industry defined by scale, the single-location department store is an anomaly, as conventional retail logic relentlessly pushes toward expansion: more doors, more markets, more revenue. Yet some of the world's most iconic department stores have only a single store and have not only survived but grown precisely because of it. This article explores Liberty and Harrods in London, Bergdorf Goodman on NYC’s Fifth Avenue and Le Bon Marché on Paris' left bank, but TSUM Kyiv would also have been interesting examples.

These department stores are not waiting to grow. They are institutions. And their singularity is not a limitation they have worked around, but rather the foundation of their competitive advantage. Single-location department store assets cannot be standardised across a chain or reproduced in a new market. They are deeply specific, historically grounded and impossible to copy at scale. But singularity carries its own risks. The same uniqueness that creates a destination can become a trap

Architecture: the destination factor

Liberty’s unmatched architectural identity 

Some of the most enduring single department stores share a defining trait: their architecture is the brand. Liberty is perhaps the clearest example. Its iconic Tudor Revival façade, designed in 1924, was constructed from the timbers of two ancient Royal Navy three-decker battle ships. More than 680 cubic metres of ship timbers were used, including their decks, which now form the shop's hardwood floors. The result is a store that feels both ancient and theatrical, unlike anything else in the retail world. Designed to feel like a home rather than a commercial space, its 7,400 sqm are arranged around three atriums, each surrounded by smaller rooms originally complete with fireplaces and furnishings. The building is now a heritage-listed London icon, carefully preserved and among the city's most recognisable architectural icons.

In 2025, Liberty reported 6% year-on-year sales growth and 61% increase over pre-COVID levels, validating a retail strategy that prioritises unique curation and local market focus over global standardisation.

Harrods: when scale becomes a landmark 

Liberty and Harrods both function as cultural landmarks and tourist destinations, though at different scales. Where Liberty is intimate, Harrods is palatial. At approximately 100,000 sqm, the size of the Knightsbridge building has always been a spectacle in its own right. For example, its façade has been illuminated by 12,000 electric light bulbs since 1959, attracting visitors early on for that specific reason. Today, around 100,000 people reportedly visit the store every day, rising to 300,000 in the run-up to Christmas, and approximately 15 million a year in total (2023 estimates). The store continues to increase dwell time and sales through spatial reinvention, such as its most ambitious renovation and architectural project to date, creating a two-story watches and jewellery department featuring innovative vertical boutiques and Europe's first curved escalators. This type of elevated design is not just qualitative, but measurable. Reports show that the best retail destinations across architecture, interiors, and experience achieve $15,000-$17,000 per sqm, around 70% above average. By contrast, the good stores generate less than half that performance.

Becoming inseparable from the city's identity, both Liberty and Harrods create a "pilgrimage" effect, driving people to visit them beyond their retail essence. They are cultural and architectural monuments, functioning as much as national institutions as they do as shops. The architecture of Liberty and Harrods carries the brand, the history and the commercial proposition simultaneously. It is an asset that cannot be franchised or reproduced.

Art experiences: when retail becomes a museum

Le Bon Marché: art programming as a commercial engine

One of the competitive advantages a single-location department store enjoys is the ability to take creative risks that chains could not standardise. From its earliest days, the department store has been a spectacle. Le Bon Marché has taken that idea further than any other global competitor, building an ambitious cultural programme that it would be impossible to replicate elsewhere. That, precisely, is the point.

Le Bon Marché's engagement with art is rooted in its own history. Its founder, Aristide Boucicault, organised painting exhibitions in the store in the nineteenth century. Today, the store holds a permanent collection of over 80 works of contemporary art and design and operates as a museum would: visitors can take guided visits of the store as a cultural destination in its own right for €20 during the day or €45 after closing hours.

More importantly, since 2016, the store has commissioned annual museum-grade installations by internationally acclaimed artists, transforming it into an immersive art gallery with monumental works suspended from the ceiling and pop-up spaces turned into art venues. Each January, when the store's calendar is dominated by sales and the traditional Le Blanc linen promotions, these exhibitions draw a significant additional, distinct audience. Since the praised Ai Weiwei's inaugural exhibition in 2016, they have become genuine cultural events in Paris. Chiharu Shiota, Leandro Erlich, Joana Vasconcelos, Subodh Gupta and Daniel Buren are among the artists featured. Over the years, this art programming has established Le Bon Marché as a legitimate cultural venue where art, commerce and daily life meet.

Finally, in 2022, Le Bon Marché went further still, launching its first after-hours theatre production and reinventing the store as a live performance space. The inaugural show was an immersive adaptation of Émile Zola's Au Bonheur des Dames, itself inspired by the birth of the department store. Audiences moved through the floors while actors performed around them. A second production, co-created with Cirque Le Roux, converted the ground floor into a circus venue, complete with a stage including a gigantic wall construction. Combining acrobatics and drama, the most recent production, Babel by Compagnie Käfig, required the building of an eight-metre-tall structure. All shows ran every Thursday, Friday and Saturday evening from September 2025 through December 2026, with tickets priced between €50 and €75.

This programming is not cultural philanthropy but a commercial engine. Evening performances attract during hours when the store would otherwise be closed, introduce audiences who may not yet be shoppers, and generate specific editorial coverage that no media budget could replicate. More fundamentally, none of it could be reproduced across a portfolio of stores. The scale of investment makes sense only because there is one Le Bon Marché. The singularity of the location is what makes the ambition viable.

Bergdorf Goodman windows: a New York institution

Few things in retail have achieved the cultural permanence of Bergdorf Goodman's windows. In the 1930s, they carried a surrealist sensibility. By the 1950s, they reflected the postwar appetite for glamour. The 1970s brought street theatre. Each decade left a distinct mark, and today the windows synthesise all of these periods, blending high and low culture, art, science and nature into a deliberately maximalist vision. Overloaded with detail, they are designed to allow multiple readings: from across the street, from a passing car, and up close, where hidden details and in-jokes reward the attentive viewer. Over the decades, the store has collaborated with independent artists and major cultural institutions, including the New-York Historical Society. The subject of several books, Bergdorf Goodman windows are a form of public art that has shaped New York's visual identity.

The commercial logic is equally clear. The windows function as advertising, a cultural statement, and a brand anchor simultaneously. They generate earned media, drive foot traffic and reaffirm the store’s position as the definitive luxury fashion address in New York. As with Le Bon Marché's art programme, the commitment these windows require is justified and made possible by the fact that there is only one Bergdorf Goodman.

The art of being a merchant: the luxury magnitude

Harrods’ total luxury ecosystem

What sets Harrods apart is the sheer concentration and depth of its luxury-brand offering. Home to over 3,000 brands, the store is more than a question of square footage; it is defined by the model through which those brands are presented. Harrods has developed a Superbrands format, dedicating entire rooms and floor sections to the world's foremost luxury houses, including ChanelDiorHermèsPradaLoro PianaHarry Winston and more, giving each the spatial presence and editorial control of a standalone boutique, within a single building. For many of these houses, their Harrods space is the most significant concession they operate outside their own flagships. Exclusive products, designed or sourced specifically for Harrods and unavailable anywhere else, reinforce the store's position as a destination that cannot be replicated elsewhere. The result is a store that functions simultaneously as a multi-brand retailer and as a curated collection of the world's most prestigious brand environments, an experience that no other department store, anywhere, replicates in full.

The services ecosystem is equally without parallel. Harrods operates more than 26 eat-in optionsResearch by Harrods in 2023 shows that when customers engage with restaurants and bars, they spend twice as long in the building and twice as much money. Compared with the pre-pandemic period, this represents a turnover up +49% vs. 2019. Also, a tiered personal shopping programme ranges from an accessible in-store consultation to an invitation-only private shopping suite at The Penthouse, reserved exclusively for the highest-tier Harrods Rewards clients.

Harrods made a bold move in 2017 by opening a closed-door, appointment-only Wellness Clinic, a significant shift in how luxury department stores were beginning to think about beauty and exclusive services for their wealthy customer base. Spanning almost 1,000 sqm, the space was never intended to be a traditional spa or beauty salon. Instead, the Wellness Clinic was conceived as a high-end, results-driven clinic offering a curated selection of treatments. The space was designed to offer an unusually wide range of services for a department store. Harrods assembled a multidisciplinary team covering everything from injectables and body contouring to cryotherapy, DNA-based personalised skincare, IV vitamin infusions, dental services, osteopathy, podiatry and physiotherapy. A dedicated partnership with a wellness expert brought daily personal training and nutritional coaching on-site. Taken together, the concentration of luxury through brands, services and dining creates an unmatched gravitational pull.

Yet Harrods is structurally vulnerable due to over-reliance on tourism. Sensitivity to international travel cycles, currency swings, visa regimes, geopolitical shocks, and economic decisions, such as the discontinuation of tax-free shopping in the UK, can stimulate or depress luxury shopping.

Bergdorf Goodman’s unparalleled curation

Where Harrods commands through scale, Bergdorf Goodman commands through editorial precision. That distinction is deliberate and structural, based on scarcity, craftsmanship and belonging. Across eight floors of the women's store, in a Beaux Arts building erected in 1928 on the former site of the Cornelius Vanderbilt II mansion, the store houses highly directional selections with an intentionality that goes beyond buying. The house's online magazine, the BG Edit, extends this curatorial voice into editorial territory, positioning the store as a taste authority.

The store's curatorial identity is also embodied in its leadership. Linda Fargo, SVP Fashion and Store Presentation Director since 2006, occupies a role with no true equivalent at any other department store: her personal edit has its own dedicated space within the building, her aesthetic sets the tone for the store's visual identity, and her presence at fashion weeks carries the authority of an institution. That level of human curatorial investment, rooted in decades of relationship-building with designers, is itself a form of product offer that cannot be replicated.

Private labels becoming global brands

Liberty prints: woven into the business model

The story of Liberty's fabric business is, in many ways, the story of Liberty itself. When Arthur Lasenby Liberty opened on Regent Street in 1875, textiles were at the heart of his vision. He had made his reputation importing fine silks, Japanese kimono fabrics and printed Indian cottons, and it was not long before he began commissioning original designs. By the 1880s, Liberty was working with British artists and craftspeople aligned with the Arts and Crafts movement. Collaborations with figures such as William Morris helped establish the brand as a pioneer of Art Nouveau. In 1884, Liberty acquired the Merton Abbey Print Works, taking direct control of its fabric production for the first time. By the 1890s, Liberty fabrics had become synonymous with the finest avant-garde textile design, its floral, paisley and abstract patterns recognised across Europe. Central to the entire print business is a single extraordinary material: Tana Lawn cotton, which remains the most iconic and commercially important fabric Liberty produces. In the early 1920s, Liberty sourced ultra-fine long-staple cotton fibres. The result was a revolutionary textile, fine, breathable and durable, with a silk-like lustre and fluidity that no other cotton has matched. It became the store's best-selling textile almost immediately.

Today, Liberty holds an archive of 45,000 original designs. Its fabrics are sold in-store, online and through a wholesale network spanning 32 countries. In 2019, the fabrics business grew at 15% year over year, making it the largest contributor to the Liberty Group, with combined in-store and online growth of 37% from 2018 to 2019. To serve its expanding international wholesale market, Liberty launched a dedicated B2B platformwww.libertyfabric.com, in 2019, making its archive accessible to trade buyers globally for the first time. The fabric business also enables Liberty to collaborate with brands as varied as UniqloLoeweNikeSupreme and the Bridgerton series, reaching additional customers. The company has also used its fabric platform to support emerging designers through the Liberty Discovers programme, developed with the London College of Fashion, offering access to the archive, mentorship from the buying team, and exposure through the store's communications. Richard Quinn's early career is one example of what the programme has produced.

What the Liberty print business represents is rare and structurally significant: a proprietary creative asset that generates value simultaneously across retail, wholesale, licensing and collaboration. As the brand's design director noted in 2019, "Through the Liberty London store we are curators; through our fabrics business we are makers." That combination is unique among global department stores. The fabric business also solves a structural challenge specific to the single-location model: how to generate revenue from customers who may never visit the store. Liberty in-house brand now accounts for 30% of the company's turnover.

The label is the product: Harrods' food and gifting business

Charles Henry Harrod opened his first venture in 1834, a grocery business in London's East End. By 1849, he had relocated to Knightsbridge, occupying a single room at 105 Brompton Road, and was already dispatching hampers of preserves and teas. Food has therefore been at the very core of the Harrods brand since before the current store existed.

The iconic Food Halls opened in their current form in 1905, featuring elaborate Arts and Crafts tiled interiors. The store's motto, Omnia Omnibus Ubique, "all things for all people, everywhere," captures the ambition. The Harrods own-brand food range, bearing the store's name on tea, coffee, preserves, biscuits, chocolate, gift sets and hampers, is now one of the most recognisable luxury private labels in global retail. Sold in-store, online and through a dedicated Corporate Service division for business gifting, it operates at significant scale. Personalised hampers can be built by individual customers and corporate clients alike, with bespoke packaging, custom branding, thematic curation and coordinated global delivery available for large-volume orders.

The Harrods name is not a generic private label but functions as a signal of luxury and provenance. Own-brand food products are sold as souvenirs and gifts, not commodity alternatives. Harrods controls the full value chain: product development, in-house manufacturing of chocolates and baked goods, curation, packaging, corporate sales and international fulfilment. Each gifting season, from Christmas to Eid to Easter to corporate year-end, is anchored by new collections designed to sustain that cycle of demand.

Like Liberty's fabric business, the Harrods food and gifting operation extends the store's commercial reach far beyond its Knightsbridge address. A hamper dispatched to Calcutta or Boston in 1849 carried exactly the same logic as one delivered to Tokyo or Dubai today. The store has one location. The brand has no geographic limits.

The limits of singularity: Samaritaine, a store looking for its customers

 When uniqueness is not enough   

La Samaritaine was founded in 1870 by Etienne Cognacq and Marie-Louise Jaÿ, two people from modest backgrounds who built one of Paris's most celebrated retail institutions. Growing steadily over six decades, they assembled a complex of four buildings completed in 1932. LVMH, which had acquired Le Bon Marché in 1984, bought La Samaritaine in 2000, envisioning the two stores as complementary flagships with distinct identities on each bank of the Seine.

The store closed in 2005 due to safety concerns. What followed was sixteen years of closure, legal disputes, contested designs and repeatedly deferred reopening dates. When it finally reopened as Samaritaine in June 2021, the total investment was estimated at €750 million.

The renovation, led by Pritzker Prize-winning studio SANAA in collaboration with heritage specialists, was a remarkable achievement. The Art Nouveau features, cast-iron signs, ceramic decorations, enamel-tile facades and decorative pillars were meticulously restored. The Art Deco façade overlooking the Seine, the glass-roofed atrium, and the famous peacock fresco on the upper floor were restored to their original condition. The new undulating glass curtain wall on the Rue de Rivoli, a shimmering wave echoing the rhythm of the Haussmann-era streetscape, was widely praised as a feat of contemporary architecture.

But the renovation, however admired, was not the commercial strategy. The store was conceived and operated as a luxury destination, managed by DFS, LVMH's Hong Kong-based duty-free subsidiary, with an explicit ambition: to capture affluent international tourists, and above all, Chinese luxury shoppers. The assortment, the operating model, and the entire commercial logic were calibrated for that one customer, leaving. Parisian locals were not the target, and the store's offer made that evident. Samaritaine reopened at the height of the post-COVID travel shutdown, with no international tourism. And when travel resumed, the anticipated wave of Chinese luxury spending never materialised. The store was left without its intended customer, and, having never courted a local one, without a viable alternative.

In search of the right commercial proposition

The virtues of the single-location model are real, but they are not unconditional. They depend entirely on the coherence of the underlying commercial proposition. When architecture becomes the destination without a sustainable customer base to support it, uniqueness alone cannot save it. Curious visitors come for the building, mostly for the peacock fresco, but they do not come to shop. Samaritaine has become, in effect, a cultural monument with a retail floor inside it. The lesson is that no amount of architectural magnificence can compensate for a missed customer strategy.

In 2025, LVMH extracted Samaritaine from DFS Group to reposition the department store for individual shoppers rather than Chinese tour groups, creating a new governance structure with Le Bon Marché and Samaritaine under single leadership. This reorganisation signalled a strategic shift, moving from travel retail toward a more sustainable, locally relevant business model. Shifting away from its previous focus on Chinese tour groups, the move aims to leverage the complementary strengths of both properties: Samaritaine's exceptional location and Le Bon Marché's established Parisian identity, combining creativity with professional execution.


The stores examined in this article have little in common at first glance. Yet they share the same strategic truth: one location mastered is more valuable than multiple locations, and what cannot be reproduced cannot easily be threatened. The single-location department store is not a relic of a pre-expansion era. It is a model that, when built on genuine and irreplicable assets, whether a heritage building, a proprietary product or a deeply local identity, is among the most defensible positions in retail. The cautionary tale of Samaritaine does not undermine this conclusion. It sharpens it. Singularity is not inherently an advantage, but it becomes one when it is backed by a coherent commercial proposition and a customer base broad enough to sustain it. In an industry that has spent decades chasing scale, these stores are a reminder that some things gain value precisely because they cannot be everywhere.



Credits: IADS (Christine Montard)