IADS Exclusive - A landmark entry: Galeries Lafayette and the evolution of Indian luxury retail

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Mar 2026
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Anchita Ranka
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CLICK HERE TO SEE PHOTOS OF GALERIES LAFAYETTE MUMBAI

Galeries Lafayette’s first Indian flagship store opened in the Kalaghoda district in Mumbai, at the historic Turner Morrison and Voltas House buildings. Indian shoppers were already among the top international clients at Galeries Lafayette’s Paris Haussmann flagship, with India’s luxury market projected to reach USD 85 billion by 2030[1].

Income inequality in India is stark and ever-increasing, resulting in a nascent luxury segment while mass-market retailers are squeezed. Mumbai, home to over 450 billionaires and 142,000 millionaires[2], and the cultural and financial capital of the country, was the logical entry point for Galeries Lafayette.

Despite a later-than-planned opening due to the complexity of restoring heritage buildings, the Mumbai opening of Galeries Lafayette marks India’s first true luxury department store. It results from a seven-year ambition and partnership announced in November 2022 between Galeries Lafayette Group (Paris) and Aditya Birla Fashion and Retail Limited (ABFRL), the fashion arm of India's Aditya Birla Group conglomerate. The deal was structured as a 20-year exclusive franchise agreement, giving ABFRL the sole rights to operate Galeries Lafayette stores across India. Strategic advisory firm Pike Preston served as the deal's advisor on record. The next planned store opening is in Delhi in 2027.

Beyond being a commercial retail space, this opening represents an extension of French cultural diplomacy and is part of strategic and geopolitical cooperation between France and India. By integrating local architectural heritage and hosting joint Franco-Indian initiatives, Galeries Lafayette Mumbai serves as a symbol of deepening cultural ties between the two nations.

India’s luxury market and competitive context

The Indian luxury sector has entered a period of structurally accelerating growth with the personal luxury goods (fashion, accessories, watches, beauty) segment being valued at $10.6 billion[3]Bain and Altagamma’s 2025 report highlighted a shift in luxury retail, in which the Middle East, Latin America, Southeast Asia, India, and Africa combined represent a market value of around €45 billion in 2025, matching Mainland China in scale.

The competitive narrative in India's luxury retail market has been framed as ‘Ambanis vs. Birlas’Reliance Brands Limited (RBL), owned by the Ambani family, manages a portfolio of 90+ brands, including Balenciaga, Bottega Veneta, Versace, Jimmy Choo, Valentino, Tiffany & Co., Burberry, and Ferragamo. It absorbed Genesis Luxury, the original broker that brought Western luxury to India, and operates Jio World Plaza, the country's most advanced luxury mall, located in Mumbai. Its digital arm, AJIO Luxe, extends brand access nationally. In January 2025, RBL also secured the franchise for Saks Fifth Avenue in India.

Aditya Birla Group built its luxury presence through The Collective (India’s original multi-brand luxury store with 12 locations and 85 brands) and through equity stakes in Indian designers, including SabyasachiTarun Tahiliani, and Shantnu & Nikhil. It now operates Galeries Lafayette Mumbai, India’s first multi-brand department store model with over 250 brands in a luxury South Mumbai heritage location and plans to open a location in Delhi by 2027.

Tata Group defines Indian luxury hospitality through Taj hotels and operates Tata CLiQ Luxury, India’s leading digital luxury marketplace.

Further to this, India faces a key structural constraint: a lack of luxury malls. India has precisely three genuine luxury malls: DLF Emporio (Delhi), DLF The Chanakya (Delhi), and Jio World Plaza (Mumbai). In March 2026, DLF’s head of luxury retail reported zero availability despite 15 top-tier brands ready to enter immediately. DLF Emporio’s planned expansion (doubling to 320,000 sq ft) will not be ready until the end of 2028. This bottleneck is a significant constraint on the speed at which the market can absorb demand — and it is one reason the Galeries Lafayette location strategy (a standalone heritage building rather than a mall) is particularly notable.

Architectural localisation and Franco-Indian programming

Galeries Lafayette’s Mumbai store is located in the heart of Kalaghoda, one of Mumbai's most culturally and architecturally significant districts, neighbouring flagships for HermèsChristian Louboutin, and Sabyasachi. The store spans 90,000 sq ft (approximately 8,400–9,000 sqm) across five floors, plus a dedicated basement Beauty Hall. The ground floor is dedicated to leather goods and accessories, with luxury womenswear on the first floor, contemporary womenswear on the second, menswear and tailoring on the third, and streetwear and concept retail on the fourth. The rooftop terraces of both buildings are earmarked for future dining offerings.

Architecturally unique, the store spans two restored century-old heritage structures — the Turner Morrison Building (a colonial-era, arched neoclassical building originally built for a British trading company) and Voltas House (a mid-century modernist post-independence industrial building) — which have been physically interconnected through a new architectural insertion. This is one of India's first major façade-retaining renovation projects.

The store was designed by Virgile + Partners, blending Parisian and Indian design motifs. The result is a distinctive retail interior; key design features include a life-size Cupola inspired by the French observation balloon L'Intrépide (1796), which floods the central atrium with natural light, an elliptical ‘Jardin de Paris’ staircase with hand-embroidered wallpaper created by Indian artisans and lotus-motif parchinkari stone inlay at the ground-floor entrance, inspired by the Taj Mahal’s craftsmanship. Three Indian artists, Sheehij Kaul, Reshidev RK, and Aashika & Tanishaa Cunha (from Plane Crazy Studios) were commissioned for permanent in-store works.

Beyond retail, the store has positioned itself as a cultural destination bridging France and India. Starting in November 2025, Galeries Lafayette Mumbai displayed rotating art installations, live activations and pop-up shows.

In February this year, the store also hosted a flagship event for the India-France Year of Innovation 2026, attended by two French government ministers (Roland Lescure, Minister of Economy, and Éléonore Caroit, Minister Delegate for Europe) and featured a collaboration with contemporary Indian artist Ankon Mitra. During the same time, Galeries Lafayette Mumbai participated in the India Design ID 2026 fair in New Delhi (the second edition of ‘Art de Vivre à la française’), reinforcing its cultural presence ahead of the planned Delhi store.

Brand selection and specialised services

The pace of brands’ market entry in India has accelerated dramatically. 27 new international brands entered India in 2024 (nearly double the 14 in 2023), with 56% from EMEA, led by France and Italy. 2025 entries include Messika (via The Chanakya), Chanel Beauty on NykaaStella McCartney (via RBL), Maje (Jio World Drive, via RBL), and Kilian Paris. French luxury group SMCP (Sandro, Maje, Claudie Pierlot) entered via Reliance in 2023, with its first Sandro store opening in Mumbai in January 2025. The 2026 pipeline includes Lululemon (via Tata CLiQ), Abercrombie & Fitch/Hollister (via Myntra), and Off-White.

Indian designer labels are closing the revenue gap with global players at a striking pace. By Fiscal Year 2025, Sabyasachi reached ~INR 500 crore in revenue, Tarun Tahiliani ~INR 350 crore, and Manish Malhotra INR 308 crore, exceeding Gucci India (INR 265 crore and down 17% YoY) and Christian Dior India (INR 257 crore and down 3% YoY)[4].

At opening, Galeries Lafayette Mumbai carried over 250 brands with approximately 70% of the assortment exclusive to India, and 200 brands entering Indian retail for the first time. Notable India-firsts include Coperni, Patou, Marni, Valextra, Diptyque, and Parfums de Marly. Indian designers confirmed at launched included Bodice (Ruchika Sachdeva), Dhruv Kapoor, Almost Gods, Hemant & Nandita, Rococo Sand, Verandah (Anjali Patel Mehta), Chorus (by Chanakya atelier), Misho (jewellery), Deepa Gurnani (jewellery), plus Sabyasachi and Tarun Tahiliani[5].

Services offered at the store include personal styling and personal shopping appointments, private reception lounges and VIP client spaces, in-store concierge services, and seasonal cultural programming and live activations. It will also offer special wedding-season services, a key focus given India’s luxury wedding market and valet parking services, catering to Mumbai’s car-travel culture.

Cultural dynamics and the Indian luxury consumer

The purchasing behaviour of Indian luxury consumers is heavily influenced by cultural traditions and a growing appetite for experiences. The $50 billion Indian wedding market is a primary catalyst, driving over half of all gold jewellery sales and prompting large-ticket spending across fashion and hospitality. For these key celebratory occasions, consumers show strong cultural loyalty to homegrown designers like Sabyasachi and Tarun Tahiliani, whose revenues now rival or surpass major European fashion houses operating in India.

Geographically and digitally, the Indian luxury consumer is also evolving. While Mumbai and Delhi-NCR remain crucial hubs, luxury consumption in non-metro cities is booming, driving over 50% of all luxury e-commerce sales. Automobiles constitute the largest and fastest-growing luxury category in India[6]. Within personal luxury goods, watches and jewellery dominate the category, alongside a rapidly growing beauty segment.

However, domestic luxury shopping faces a structural hurdle: high import duties and a 28% Goods and Services Tax mean luxury goods can cost up to 40% more than in markets like Dubai, leading many wealthy Indians to systematically shop abroad. The India-EU and India-EFTA trade deals are the first policy changes in decades to address this directly. Galeries Lafayette’s response is to align pricing with Dubai levels where possible.

For those shopping domestically, especially newer entrants climbing the luxury ladder, Galeries Lafayette can act as an accessible premiumisation gateway, offering a less intimidating experience than mono-brand boutiques. During the launch, Galeries Lafayette’s international development director Philippe Pedone also acknowledged that more local brands would be added.

Galeries Lafayette’s Indian market roadmap

Galeries Lafayette’s entry into Mumbai marks the group’s strategic pivot away from competitive Western markets (highlighted by the July 2024 closure of its Berlin store) and toward high-growth regions like Asia and the Middle East[7]. With a global ambition to increase international revenue from 10% pre-pandemic to 25% by 2030, India sits at the core of this strategy alongside markets like Dubai, Doha, and Macau. The immediate next phase for the Mumbai flagship involves completing its experiential offerings. While food and beverage concepts were not operational at the November 2025 launch, CEO Arthur Lemoine confirmed that rooftop dining will launch in 2026, with the Parisian dining concept La Cantine du Faubourg in advanced talks for the space.

Beyond the Mumbai flagship, Galeries Lafayette’s roadmap in India relies on both physical footprint expansion and digital penetration. A second flagship store in New Delhi, spanning approximately 5,500 square meters within the DLF Emporio complex, is now targeted for 2027 following developer timeline delays. To capture the growing wealth and demand outside major metro areas, the brand also plans to launch a dedicated e-commerce platform aimed at consumers in Tier-2 and Tier-3 cities.

Ultimately, the long-term success of this expansion will lean on its partnerships. By leveraging Aditya Birla Group’s deep connections with homegrown brands and continuing to act as a conduit for Indian-French cultural diplomacy, Galeries Lafayette is positioning itself not just as a foreign retailer but as a deeply integrated platform bridging global luxury with India’s evolving consumer landscape.



Credits: Anchita Ranka


[1] Galeries Lafayette to open its first store in India amid luxury boom

[2]Hurun-India Wealth Report 2025

[3] India Luxury Goods Market Size, Share, Trends and Forecast by Product Type, Distribution Channel, End User and Region, 2026-2034

[4] Indian luxury brands close revenue gap with global players in FY25: Rediffusion report

[5] Galeries Lafayette Bows in Mumbai, a Major Step for Retail in India

[6] Experiential luxury, cars and beauty driving Indian luxury market

[7] ‘The timing is finally right’: Galeries Lafayette arrives in India