Diwali dressing is evolving and going global
What: Indian designers are taking Diwali festive wear to international retailers and events, from Harrods and Selfridges to the Met and Dubai, to serve a 37.3mn overseas Indian population.
Why it is important: Diwali is following Chinese New Year and Ramadan as a festival that department stores can turn into a trading season, and Harrods' 50% rise in Indian footfall on Diwali shows the demand is already there.
Ahead of Diwali, leading Indian designers are taking festive wear abroad. Gaurav Gupta hosted a celebration at Harrods, Sabyasachi held a reception at the Metropolitan Museum of Art, and Tarun Tahiliani opened his first flagship outside India, in Dubai. The overseas Indian population totals 37.3mn, according to India's Ministry of External Affairs. Stylist Zunaili Malik sees department-store pop-ups as a way to reach the diaspora and introduce other communities to these designers.
Diwali is not observed the same way by everyone, and dress varies by region. Anita Dongre sees the biggest shift towards versatility and ease, with lighter fabrics and pieces that can be restyled and worn again, while younger consumers mix Indian and western influences. Manish Malhotra says he designs for customers celebrating in Mumbai, London, Dubai or New York. Harrods says London customers want versatility.
Anamika Khanna presents her couture collection in London on October 30, followed by a three-day Harrods pop-up. Buyers have long felt there is a gap for contemporary festive clothes that keep the codes of Indian dressing without heavy embellishment or gold and silver, and it remains to be seen whether the pop-ups will fill it.
IADS Notes: Harrods' Diwali programme includes an exclusive Gaurav Gupta couture line and greater investment in Indian designers. Footfall from Indian customers rose 50% on Diwali itself, and the festival has reshaped fourth-quarter planning for eveningwear and occasion wear (WWD, October 2026). The store took a similar approach to Chinese New Year, using collaborations with Chinese creatives, a Labelhood pop-up and in-store events to sustain international footfall after the end of UK tax-free shopping (Fashion Network, February 2026). Ramadan has meanwhile joined Christmas and Chinese New Year as a key luxury season, with the Middle East luxury market growing 6% to $12.8 billion in 2025 (WWD, February 2026). Selfridges has also used its Corner Shop to present more than 20 Saudi brands to an international audience (WWD, July 2026). The focus on Indian shoppers also reflects India's emergence as a luxury growth market. High import duties and limited luxury retail infrastructure mean many wealthy Indians still prefer to buy abroad (Financial Times, January 2026).
