What: The Italian government announces new measures against ultra-fast fashion imports, including an extra charge on online retailers such as Shein and Temu.

Why it is important: These measures reflect Europe’s growing regulatory pushback against ultra-fast fashion and its impact on local industries.

Italy is preparing to introduce a new levy on Chinese ultra-fast fashion imports, specifically targeting major online platforms like Shein and Temu, in an effort to protect its domestic fashion sector from low-cost foreign competition. The initiative, announced by Industry Minister Adolfo Urso, is part of a broader strategy to address what the government describes as an “invasion” of low-cost products that threaten Italian producers and consumer safety. The planned charge will be implemented through an Extended Producer Responsibility (EPR) scheme, requiring manufacturers to cover the costs of collecting, sorting, and recycling their products at end-of-life. This move comes amid growing concern in Europe that Chinese exporters are redirecting goods to the EU following increased tariffs in the US. At the same time, Italian authorities are intensifying scrutiny of supply chain practices and labor rights, with several luxury brands facing judicial administration for alleged abuses. The new measures signal a significant regulatory shift as Italy and the EU seek to defend local industry standards and sustainability in the face of global trade pressures.

IADS Notes: Italy’s plan to impose an extra levy on Chinese fast fashion imports, targeting platforms like Shein and Temu, is the latest in a series of escalating regulatory actions across Europe. In August 2025, Shein was fined €1 million in Italy for greenwashing, following a €40 million penalty in France, highlighting intensifying scrutiny of environmental claims and business practices (Inside Retail, August 2025). The EU’s February 2025 regulations now require all textile producers, including e-commerce platforms, to fund textile waste management through Extended Producer Responsibility schemes, fundamentally altering the economics of fast fashion (Financial Times, February 2025). This regulatory wave is a direct response to the surge in low-cost Chinese imports, which increased by 20% in value and volume in early 2025 as US tariffs forced manufacturers to reroute goods to Europe (Financial Times, October 2025). The Italian government’s move also reflects growing concerns over labor rights and supply chain abuses, with recent high-profile cases leading to judicial administration for several luxury brands and settlements for labor exploitation (Financial Times, May 2025). These developments collectively underscore the urgency for European policymakers and retailers to adapt to a rapidly evolving competitive and regulatory landscape.

Chinese fast fashion brands set to be levied in Italy to protect local industry