What does the future hold for eco-labels?

Articles & Reports
 |  
May 2021
 |  
WWD
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What: It is difficult for the apparel industry to choose the best or most recognized eco-label.


Why it is important: The overwhelming number of eco-labels are puzzling customers and too expensive and time-consuming for manufacturers. But solutions are emerging as the sustainability certification sector evolves.


In a survey including shoppers from the U.S., Britain, France, Italy, and Germany commissioned by the Changing Markets Foundation, 67% found it difficult to know if brands were meeting environmental standards. Retailers feel like eco-labels have become so confusing because of the politics involved.


Recognizing that sustainability sells, brands want to emphasize every little thing that they are doing, and they want to make a label for it. When some stakeholders – either industry or NGOs- want a criteria included and others disagree, the result is two different labels that cater to their specific interests.


Some brands can become so obsessed with reaching one label, that they cause more damage than good. Sometimes by making a product out of recycled materials actually uses more energy and water than using nonrecycled ingredients.


Sustainability is becoming more complex with everything considered from materials, chemical use, logistics, and working conditions over the whole life cycle of a product. This complicates labeling even further.


Some people believe that having governments set up an all-encompassing eco-label would be best, but this has proven to face a lot of criticism. Others prefer to self-regulate through eco-label aggregators like Good on You which ranks eco-labels. Zalando, on the other hand, is betting on the Higgs Index by using it as a standard across its site.


What will eco-labeling look like in the future?


As people become more informed, they will make their own decisions about the credibility of labels and only a few will remain in use. Companies will also become more transparent on their own which may negate the need for so many different labels. There could be a natural convergence to a single standard in each sector. Getting certified is time consuming and expensive, so there is a lot of pressure on eco-labels to harmonize through mergers and agreements.


Too Many, Too Confusing - What Does the Future Hold for Eco-Labels