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What: The number one certifying body of France, and a standard that ensures that a range of products are ecologically produced and sourced.

Why is it important: The certification can be internationally recognized across various sections of department stores from apparel to cosmetics.

As more and more sustainability certifications and labels enter the textile and cosmetics industries, the worldwide adoption and recognition of these standards can become easily blurred or even lost. So, why not turn to the label that started it all? Ecocert was the first certification body to develop standards for natural and organic products and has created a globally recognized standard to provide certified environmentally-friendly products.

What it is

The Ecocert organization was established in 1991 and is a control and certification body that is approved by the French Institut National de l'Origine et de la Qualité (National Institute for Origin and Quality), and accredited by the Comité Français d’Accréditation (the French Committee for Accreditation; COFRAC). It is France’s number one certifying body and has been a reference for 30 years for the certification of ecological products. The brand is widely recognized by consumers and has an international presence in major producing countries.

Ecocert is acknowledged for its expertise in matters related to the environment and to sustainable development. The organization is a global leader in certification in organic farming and organic cosmetics and relies on an international network of 30 branches with more than 800 employees operating in over 110 countries. Ecocert is also a recognized player in the certification of environmental management systems and fair trade and sets demanding standards to encourage economic players across all sectors to adopt more responsible practices. Its range of expertise also covers environmental consulting and applies a rigorous environmental policy to all of its activities.

Ecocert supports more than 1,000 companies in their certification process and has dedicated offices worldwide to be able to service their customers regionally in North America, South America, Africa, Europe, and Asia. With 60% of Ecocert’s workforce internationally located, the organization can work closely with regional regulations and standards to be able to offer recognized certifications for the various locations. For example, in order to sell, label, or represent organic products in the United States, your products must be certified by a USDA (United States Department of Agriculture) accredited certification agency, such as Ecocert.

While France’s institutions created the origin of the standard, Ecocert adapts its standards to meet country-specific qualifications and labels. As each country defines its levels of transparency and material associations with labels, Ecocert partners with local associations such as the USDA to communicate and certify. In 2020, Ecocert acquired “Des Enjeux et des Hommes”, a leading CSR (Corporate Social Responsibility) strategy and change management consultancy business in France that will enhance the company's ability to work internationally by helping companies transition to sustainable models within their ecosystem.

There are 197 Ecocert-certified clients in the United States and 1,162 in Europe ranging from recognized supermarkets like Naturalia to internationally known cosmetics brands like L'Oréal. Not all items produced by these organizations are Ecocert certified, but they do share a level of commitment to environmentally friendly and socially conscious practices. As Ecocert regulates the end-to-end product cycle and beyond, the certification can be obtained by all players in the textile, cosmetics, or eco-product sectors from farmers, to producers, and even to brands.

How it works

Ecocert’s Greenlife business, which attributed to 18.9% of the organization’s turnover in 2019,  regulates textiles, cosmetics, detergents, and home perfumes to confirm that they comply with the specifications for cultivation, packaging, quality, origin procedures, and traceability. The standard requires the use of ingredients derived from renewable resources that are manufactured by environmentally friendly processes. There must be no GMOs, parabens, phenoxyethanol, nanoparticles, silicon, polyethylene glycol, synthetic perfumes, dyes, or animal-derived ingredients (unless naturally produced like milk or honey). Also, all packaging must be biodegradable or recyclable.

Within the Greenlife business, Ecocert’s Ecological Recycled Textile Standard (ERTS) label promotes production practices and conditions in the clothing and textile industry that respect the environment and people. It outlines the minimum environmental and social requirements necessary to define the ecological status by covering the product’s design stages, raw material production, manufacturing up to completion, distribution, use, and end of life of the finished product.

To be labeled under the ERTS, the finished product should be made partially or entirely of natural fibers, synthetic fibers, regenerated cellulose fibers, mineral fibers, fibers from renewable materials, or recycled natural or man-made fibers. The finished product must be made up of 50% natural materials or materials from renewable or recycled materials to have an Ecocert label of “Made with X% sustainable material” and contain 70% minimum for the “Ecological textile” or “Ecological & recycled textile” label.

Why is it important

Though clothing and textile products tend to make up the majority of department store inventory, there are also dedicated sections, and even full floors, to other items such as cosmetics and home goods. The Ecocert label goes beyond textiles and is also reputable for efforts in cosmetics.

The COSMOS (COSMetic Organic and Natural Standard) was formed by Ecocert and four other organic and natural cosmetics companies from across Europe including France, Germany, Italy, and the U.K. to standardize beauty certification on a global level. This label guarantees that a product is certified by five international organizations and makes use of the principles in the Ecocert standard.

With Ecocert’s network, range of sectors, and international recognition, it could be the best label for department stores offering a variety of goods to ensure a uniform label throughout the establishment that consumers can recognize across the various offerings. Ecocert has affiliations worldwide which gives the label a broader impact and recognition among consumers.

Limits and Criticism

On the other hand, as Ecocert offers such a wide variety of labels and services, it can bring confusion as to what the label actually means. Consumers have struggled with differentiating between natural and organic products within the label. The launch of COSMOS was meant to provide a uniform standard for natural and organic personal care products, however, critics argue that it has just added to the confusion because now it associates products with five separate labels rather than the individualized labels that once distinguished natural, organic, or made with organic products. Critics of the Ecocert label believe that there should be a uniform logo with a simple and effective message that can be understood across various countries and regions.

Such confusion has led Ecocert to release various clarifications between Ecocert and the COSMOS labels. In a document released by Ecocert, the group warns about three misleading provisions encompassing natural ingredient certification, the use of petrochemical substances, and the calculation of natural and organic origin indexes that may lead to fallacious information about the product. Ecocert has understood the complicated nature of having various labels and associations and is working on creating a clearer message so consumers do not feel deceived.

Ecocert: the one-stop-shop

A lot of natural and organic standards have been introduced around the globe in recent years, but they typically are only adopted on a national level. While noteworthy standards exist in countries like Brazil and Australia, most of the world looks to the United States and Europe in regards to which standards are the most trustworthy. Labels in North America appear to be more fixed while Europe is home to many different certifying bodies and organizations with similar causes. This can make it difficult to compare the labels and objectives internationally.

A recent trend coming from this has been the attempts to form regional and international groupings based on the harmonization of various national standards. COSMOS is an example of one of these international harmonization efforts that bring together Ecocert Greenlife, COSMEBIO, BDIH (Association of German Industries and Trading Firms), ICEA (Environmental and Ethical Certification Institute), and Soil Association. Though the collective approach brings some confusion, the outcome has brought the unification of expertise across countries with an overall objective to use materials that are safe for the environment and human health.

Overall, labeling and certification have become increasingly complex, so becoming Ecocert certified can be an enticing way to wrap many different labels under one umbrella. Ecocert as a whole covers a wide range of items beyond clothing which could be found in department stores. It can be seen as one universal label that is globally recognized by consumers shopping in various sections of the department store.

Credits: IADS (Mary Jane Shea)