As emissions rise, fashion grapples with growth

Articles & Reports
 |  
Aug 2023
 |  
Vogue Business
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What: Fashion brands are under much pressure to reduce their emissions. However, the complexity of the problem might also very well challenge their business model.


Why it is important: While it is unlikely that de-growth will be accepted by stakeholders, brands might be under increasingly intense regulation that might, ultimately, bring such changes to the business model. Private labels will be no exception.


The fashion industry, often celebrated for its glitz and innovation, currently grapples with a significant environmental issue—excessive production leading to increased greenhouse gas emissions. Many brands have pledged to reduce their carbon footprints, but the push for rapid expansion often undermines these eco-friendly initiatives.


Several renowned companies are trying to reduce their overall emissions, but even if emissions per product drop, the cumulative effect might be an increase if the number of items produced rises. Additionally, only a small fraction of top global companies are on pace to reach their self-proclaimed sustainability targets. This disparity highlights a complex challenge: the age-old business success marker of growth seems to be at odds with the planet's sustainability needs.


The concept of 'degrowth' is emerging as a potential solution. This doesn't simply mean a reduction in economic activity. Instead, degrowth is about building prosperity through a balance between nature's resources and human necessities. Here, the well-being of communities would be more valuable than profits. But, suggesting a reduction in growth can be controversial for brands and stakeholders, making it a challenging proposal to promote.


A common counterargument posits that it's possible to separate growth from its environmental repercussions. However, this idea, termed 'decoupling', is debated among experts, with many questioning its feasibility.


Despite optimistic targets set by companies, actual data shows a concerning trend. For example, recent studies indicate that emissions from some leading fashion brands could surge by up to 80% by 2030 compared to 2019 levels. Merely shifting manufacturing to countries with cleaner energy doesn't address the root of the issue and fails to provide an equitable solution for all nations involved.


One promising approach towards understanding and tackling the environmental impact of fashion is by fostering transparency. If companies were more open about production figures, factory locations, and transportation methods, it would give a clearer insight into areas requiring the most improvement. Initiatives in regions like the EU are pushing for standardized assessment methods and mandatory disclosure of unsold merchandise. But beyond regulations, brands must genuinely address and rethink their growth strategies for the sake of our environment.


In essence, as we move forward, it's crucial to scrutinize the intertwined relationship between industry growth and its carbon footprint. It's not just about economic prosperity anymore; it's about ensuring the well-being of our planet for future generations.


As emissions rise, fashion grapples with growth