Virgil Abloh dies at 41
What: From working extensively with Kanye West in the late 2000s to molding street-style scene with Off-White, countless collaborations, running numerous DJ sets and art exhibitions, to finally taking over Louis Vuitton’s men’s wear, it’s difficult to sum up “multihyphenate” Abloh’s work.
Why it is important: Abloh will be remembered for his global influence on society besides fashion, and by popularising luxury streetwear with Off-White bit also with Louis Vuitton.
Abloh graduated with a Bachelor of Science in civil engineering from the University of Wisconsin-Madison and started DJing at the age of 17.
In 2007, Kanye West hired Abloh and they briefly worked on West’s first fashion project, Pastelle, together. From there, he interned at Fendi with West in 2009, and was officially named West’s creative director. Also in 2009, he opened Chicago store RSVP Gallery in Wicker Park, offering luxury and contemporary fashion and streetwear brands like Chanel, Comme des Garçons and Bape.
In 2012, he launched Pyrex Vision, a streetwear brand produced partly from deadstock Ralph Lauren products and apparel pieces that served as the impetus of streetwear’s fashion takeover. He launched Off-White in 2013 and established his signature marks, like zip ties, quotation marks, slant stripes and barricade tape.
Off-White was a finalist for the LVMH Prize in 2015. Though the brand did not pick up the prize that went to Marques’ Almeida or the special prize won by Jacquemus, Off-White did score countless collaborations like Levi’s or Nike on their “The Ten” series that included reinterpretations of 10 of the sportswear company’s sneakers, and even with Ikea on furniture. Other collaborations include Jimmy Choo, Moncler, Tsum, Byredo, Babylon LA, Ginori, Vilebrequin, Champion, Timberland, Dr. Martens and Umbro, Rimowa.
He teamed with retailers Ssense on athletic apparel; Sunglass Hut on a sunglasses collection; an exclusive capsule for Browns, and Le Bon Marché on a café.
In 2018, Louis Vuitton named Abloh men’s artistic director, making him the first Black American to hold the position at LVMH. His first show also marked a new direction for the fashion house that tapped further into skate and street culture.
In 2019, he held his first solo exhibition, “Virgil Abloh: Figures of Speech,” at the Museum of Contemporary Art chronicling 20 years of his designs, inspirations and collaborations. The exhibit would travel separately from Louis Vuitton’s traveling men’s pop-up shops.
Shortly before Abloh’s death, LVMH acquired a 60% stake in Off-White and granted him a bigger role at the company to work on their wine and spirits and hospitality categories.
