Saks woes cloud cashmere king Cucinelli's department store bet

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 |  
Jan 2026
 |  
Reuters
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What: Brunello Cucinelli remains committed to department store and wholesale distribution despite Saks Global’s financial turmoil and the broader luxury market’s shift toward direct retail.

Why it is important: Cucinelli’s resilience amid market volatility demonstrates how strong brand identity and selective partnerships can mitigate sector-wide challenges.

Brunello Cucinelli’s decision to double down on department store and wholesale distribution comes at a time when Saks Global, one of its key retail partners, faces severe financial distress and potential bankruptcy. While many luxury brands have shifted toward direct retail to gain greater control over pricing, inventory, and margins, Cucinelli continues to emphasise the importance of multi-brand relationships, with 36% of its revenue still coming from wholesale channels. Despite payment delays from Saks, Cucinelli’s leadership expresses confidence in the stability of their business model, citing minimal historical losses and the enduring value of department stores as custodians of the brand. This approach sets Cucinelli apart from peers like Prada, Moncler, and Kering, who have largely moved away from wholesale. The brand’s ability to grow sales and raise revenue forecasts in a challenging market underscores the strength of its identity and the strategic value of carefully chosen retail partnerships, even as the sector faces ongoing volatility and structural change.

IADS Notes: In January 2026, The Robin Report and WWD detailed how Saks Global’s debt-fueled merger strategy and leadership failures resulted in missed payments and widespread financial distress for luxury brands dependent on the retailer. Throughout 2025, Fashion Network highlighted Brunello Cucinelli’s continued reliance on multi-brand and wholesale channels, emphasising the brand’s consistent identity and resilience. In December 2025, BoF reported on the restructuring of multibrand retailers, noting the sector’s pivot toward curated offerings and experiential retail. Additionally, LUXUS PLUS in March 2025 underscored how brands like Cucinelli have thrived by focusing on exclusive experiences and selective distribution, even as broader luxury spending declined.

Saks woes cloud cashmere king Cucinelli's department store bet