What: NGO Earthsight's investigation links Better Cotton-certified Brazilian cotton used by H&M and Zara to illegal deforestation.

Why it is important: This revelation challenges the credibility of sustainable certifications and underscores the necessity for stringent oversight and transparency in fashion supply chains to truly address environmental impacts.

An Earthsight investigation revealed that cotton certified by Better Cotton, used in H&M and Zara products, originated from Brazilian producers SLC Agrícola and Grupo Horita, currently under investigation for deforestation and land grabbing. Despite being certified as sustainable, these producers have a history of environmental infractions dating back to 2008. The investigation traced the cotton through global supply chains to prominent fashion retailers, highlighting the lack of direct oversight in certification processes. H&M and Zara parent Inditex responded by stressing ongoing dialogues and improvements with Better Cotton. The case exemplifies broader issues within fashion supply chains where reliance on certifications does not always equate to actual sustainability, raising significant questions about the effectiveness of current regulatory measures in preventing environmental degradation.

H&M, Zara Certifier Better Cotton linked to illegal deforestation in NGO report