What: BHV Marais is seeking to rebuild credibility under new management by bringing brands back, reopening key spaces and refocusing on its historic home categories.

Why it is important: BHV’s reset highlights the risks of controversial partnerships and the importance of brand integrity in maintaining a viable department store ecosystem.

BHV Marais has unveiled a turnaround plan one month after being taken over by members of its management team. The Paris department store, formerly controlled by SGM, is seeking to recover from months of financial, operational and reputational pressure, including supplier disputes and the controversy surrounding Shein’s presence on the sixth floor. New management, led by Karl-Stéphane Cottendin, plans to refocus BHV on its historic strengths in home, DIY and décor, while accelerating Shein’s exit before its contract ends in 2027. The reset appears to be improving supplier confidence, with 37 brands confirming their return in autumn, including Ligne Roset, Cinna and Madura. Le Slip Français has also expressed willingness to work with BHV again. The ground floor will be central to the recovery from September, with Boulanger and Rougier & Plé joining the store and two entrances reopening. Management says operations are assured despite a financial dispute with landlord Brookfield. BHV also plans an employee share ownership scheme that could eventually give staff 40% of the capital.

IADS Notes: BHV Marais’s turnaround plan follows months of operational, reputational and supplier turmoil, making brand trust central to its recovery. In June 2026, Le Monde reported that BHV’s new management planned to end the controversial Shein partnership, refocus the store on home, DIY, decoration and creative leisure, and open capital to employees after a change in ownership. The urgency of that reset was clear in May 2026, when L’Informé reported an 80% year-to-date sales decline, the departure of more than 200 brands and suppliers, unpaid invoices and payment delays. Fashion Network’s November 2025 coverage showed that BHV had already tried to reassure suppliers through operational changes, a new store layout, a private-label plan and instant payment systems, but the Shein controversy continued to undermine brand confidence. More broadly, Modaes noted in April 2026 that French department stores are taking divergent paths under sector pressure, with BHV’s crisis illustrating how governance, brand integrity and strategic clarity now determine whether legacy retailers can regain relevance.

BHV Marais unveils turnaround strategy