IADS Exclusive Insights

Every week, the IADS releases its research article to the general public via Substack.
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IADS Exclusive: Nike, a cautionary tale on the DTC business model

Christine Montard
October 22, 2024
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IADS Exclusive: Nike, a cautionary tale on the DTC business model

Christine Montard
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October 22, 2024

Department stores have experienced a decline in sales and prominence over the past decades. This decline is attributed to changing consumer habits and the rise of e-commerce, which has provided consumers with more convenient shopping options. Many department stores have struggled to adapt to these changes, resulting in financial difficulties and store closures. On the other hand, direct-to-consumer (DTC) brands have revolutionised the retail industry by cutting out intermediaries and selling directly to consumers. This approach has allowed them to offer better prices than regular brands, personalised experiences, proximity with their community of customers and greater convenience. Many global brands have also considered adopting a DTC approach to grow margins and control their image and prices without withdrawing from department stores and multi-brand retailers altogether. However, this new business model puts additional pressure on department stores. Nike is the best example of the success and limits of the DTC business model, showing how partnering with multi-brand retailers is still very much relevant and efficient.


IADS Exclusive: Nike, a cautionary tale on the DTC business model


IADS provides its members with a weekly in-depth analysis on retail-oriented topics.


*IADS Exclusives are for members only. You can subscribe to our Substack to recieve our weekly exclusives here.*



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IADS Exclusive: AI in retail: why culture, values and strategic goals matter more than tech?

Maya Sankoh
October 15, 2024
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IADS Exclusive: AI in retail: why culture, values and strategic goals matter more than tech?

Maya Sankoh
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October 15, 2024

The rapid evolution of artificial intelligence (AI) technology represents a dual-edged sword for the retail and department store sectors. While AI promises to revolutionise operations, its integration into the corporate fabric demands more than mere technological upgrades—it requires a strategic alignment with each organisation's unique culture, values, and broader objectives. As data becomes the new "gold" and advances in hardware capabilities make previously inconceivable AI applications possible, retailers are presented with tremendous opportunities and significant challenges. This article looks at how department stores can effectively use AI to boost operations and support their mission while considering the financial and risk challenges involved.


IADS Exclusive: AI in retail: why culture, values and strategic goals matter more than tech?


IADS provides its members with a weekly in-depth analysis on retail-oriented topics.


*IADS Exclusives are for members only. You can subscribe to our Substack to recieve our weekly exclusives here.*



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IADS Exclusive - Brand Roundup: Sportswear 2024

Christine Montard
October 7, 2024
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IADS Exclusive - Brand Roundup: Sportswear 2024

Christine Montard
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October 7, 2024

IADS recently held a meeting on sportswear. Based on market research, NellyRodi and The Style Pulse presented the most innovative brands from different segments in sportswear including outdoor, activewear, athleisure, and more.


Check out our selection of these brands and the pictures by clicking the button below!


IADS Exclusive - Brand Roundup: Sportswear 2024


IADS provides its members with a weekly in-depth analysis on retail-oriented topics.


*IADS Exclusives are for members only. You can subscribe to our Substack to recieve our weekly exclusives here.*



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IADS Exclusive - Nouvelles Galeries in Annecy: a case for tier-II cities department stores

September 30, 2024
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IADS Exclusive - Nouvelles Galeries in Annecy: a case for tier-II cities department stores

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September 30, 2024

Even though the department store changed its name to Galeries Lafayette more than 30 years ago, Annecy's1 residents kept on calling it Nouvelles Galeries. This is why Citynove (Galeries Lafayette Group's real estate arm)2 revived the old name to develop a shopping centre around the existing department store. But its drive-to-store strategy is fully anchored in today's retail: Citynove's president, Eric Costa, described it as a pilot project for the group. The goal is to adapt the department store format to the local market's realities, client expectations, and competition to create an optimal environment for the stores to evolve. This approach reflects the group's strategy of owning most of its stores, allowing for easier transformation and adaptation. Considered by Galeries Lafayette as an illustration of what tomorrow's department store could look like, the whole project aims at becoming a hybrid place where people come to shop and live. Officially completed in October 2023, here's what the place has to offer.


IADS Exclusive - Nouvelles Galeries in Annecy: a case for tier-II cities department stores 


IADS provides its members with a weekly in-depth analysis on retail-oriented topics.


*IADS Exclusives are for members only. You can subscribe to our Substack to recieve our weekly exclusives here.*



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IADS Exclusive: Boyner evolves its new store concept in Istinye Park

Selvane Mohandas du Ménil
September 23, 2024
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IADS Exclusive: Boyner evolves its new store concept in Istinye Park

Selvane Mohandas du Ménil
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September 23, 2024

*IADS member Boyner Grup unveiled its new strategy in 2022 to establish itself as a genuine "multi-brand lifestyle company". This came with a new approach to merchandising, including the introduction of more international brands, less reliance on private labels, the exploration of new categories, including F&B, the introduction of new types of marketing and events in Turkey, and the launch of a new store concept, in Cadde, on the Asian part of the city. We reported this new concept and its many innovations in a previous IADS Exclusive.

Since then, Boyner Grup has been relentless in its efforts to improve and expand this store concept to other locations, including the iconic Istinye Park. This commitment to innovation and improvement is a testament to the company's dedication to providing a unique and engaging retail experience. As the second major iteration of the store concept, it includes some evolutions based on the key learnings from the Cadde store, reviewed in this IADS Exclusive article.*


IADS Exclusive: Boyner evolves its new store concept in Istinye Park


IADS provides its members with a weekly in-depth analysis on retail-oriented topics.


*IADS Exclusives are for members only. You can subscribe to our Substack to recieve our weekly exclusives here.*



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IADS Exclusive: how Tmall fosters a new approach towards ultra-personalisation in luxury

Selvane Mohandas du Ménil
September 16, 2024
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IADS Exclusive: how Tmall fosters a new approach towards ultra-personalisation in luxury

Selvane Mohandas du Ménil
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September 16, 2024

Last May, LVMH signed a deal with Alibaba, cementing the luxury group's omnichannel, data and digital capabilities. Through this agreement, LVMH will access Alibaba's technology and investments, especially in AI capabilities, allowing luxury brands to be more accurate and personalised than ever. This is not unexpected: LVMH and Alibaba had already partnered in cloud data management for five years before changing gears. In addition, Alibaba is considered as a "global partner" by LVMH in a context where data is key to properly addressing Chinese customers' needs, wherever they are in the world.


This is why the IADS interviewed Nicolas Cano, Fashion and Luxury Business Development Director at Tmall Luxury, a division of Alibaba, to understand more about the Alibaba ecosystem, how it completes LVMH's expertise in the region, and what the luxury behemoth gets from this deal. He has over 15 years of international expertise in the luxury sector. He started his career at L'Oréal in the Luxury Division as a Product Manager before joining LVMH in 2005. He worked at Dior Homme, Christian Lacroix as Commercial Development Manager for Europe,and then EMEA. In 2010, Nicolas joined the Chalhoub Group to develop the Chanel franchise network in the Middle East. In 2016, he took over the General Management of the Symphony Group, the Alabbar Group's retail branch, deploying an omnichannel strategy and opening exclusive concept stores in the extension of the Dubai Mall. Since May 2018, Nicolas Cano has held the Fashion & Luxury Business Development Director position at Alibaba Group. He leads the e-commerce distribution of major Houses on Alibaba's B2C platform, Tmall & Tmall Luxury Pavilion. Nicolas graduated from the L'Ecole Superieure de Commerce de Nantes (AUDENCIA).


IADS Exclusive: how Tmall fosters a new approach towards ultra-personalisation in luxury


IADS provides its members with a weekly in-depth analysis on retail-oriented topics.


*IADS Exclusives are for members only. You can subscribe to our Substack to recieve our weekly exclusives here.*



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IADS Exclusive: Sustainability in fashion

Elisabetta Falco Beccalli
September 11, 2024
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IADS Exclusive: Sustainability in fashion

Elisabetta Falco Beccalli
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September 11, 2024

Sustainability is not just a buzzword; it's a pressing issue that demands our attention. Brands and retailers have put much effort into more responsible practices, but can they keep up with the increasingly stringent regulations? Are customers truly aligning their actions with their sustainability beliefs? IADS delves into the world of sustainability in fashion, exploring its meaning, how fashion brands and department stores can incorporate sustainable practices, and addressing the above questions.


IADS Exclusive: Sustainability in fashion


IADS provides its members with a weekly in-depth analysis on retail-oriented topics.


*IADS Exclusives are for members only. You can subscribe to our Substack to recieve our weekly exclusives here.*



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IADS Exclusive: The road to retail excellence still means getting the fundamentals right, even in 2024 Magasin du Nord's latest improvements

Christine Montard
September 4, 2024
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IADS Exclusive: The road to retail excellence still means getting the fundamentals right, even in 2024 Magasin du Nord's latest improvements

Christine Montard
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September 4, 2024

*2023 has been a busy year for Magasin du Nord. With an unwavering commitment to meeting the evolving needs of its clientele, Magasin du Nord has introduced improvements and services such as BOPIS (Buy Online, Pick Up In Store) and harnessed cutting-edge technology through the implementation of smartwatch-equipped staff. New service lounges gathering all store services allowed Magasin du Nord to offer better and more efficient customer service. While retail operations were refined to achieve excellence in customer service and increase KPIs such as the conversion rate and the UPT, Magasin du Nord also launched layout changes and visual merchandising upgrades in their 3 most important stores (see the pictures review attached).

With the entire retail industry currently hoping that new technologies and approaches such as AI and retail media will help it reinvent itself, streamline, optimise operations and bring in new sources of revenue, the efforts recently made by Magasin du Nord (a company not shy when it comes to technological innovation) also show that to thrive in the new world, fundamentals have to be right. There is no point in building a state-of-the-art technological pyramid if the foundations are not well grounded.*


IADS Exclusive: The road to retail excellence


IADS provides its members with a weekly in-depth analysis on retail-oriented topics.


*IADS Exclusives are for members only. You can subscribe to our Substack to recieve our weekly exclusives here.*



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IADS Exclusive - Brand Roundup: Womens fashion 2024

Christine Montard
August 26, 2024
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IADS Exclusive - Brand Roundup: Womens fashion 2024

Christine Montard
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August 26, 2024

IADS recently held a meeting on the women's fashion. Based on market research, NellyRodi and The Style Pulse presented the most innovative brands from different segments in cosmetics and beauty including must haves, on trend, hidden gems, and more.


Check out our selection of these brands and the pictures by clicking the button below!


IADS Exclusive - Brand Roundup: Women's fashion 2024


IADS provides its members with a weekly in-depth analysis on retail-oriented topics.


*IADS Exclusives are for members only. You can subscribe to our Substack to recieve our weekly exclusives here.*



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IADS Exclusive: Hunkemöller's CEO on the importance of staying agile to keep up with digital retail trends

Mary Jane Shea
July 29, 2024
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IADS Exclusive: Hunkemöller's CEO on the importance of staying agile to keep up with digital retail trends

Mary Jane Shea
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July 29, 2024

It is not every day that a retail CEO knows and plans his exit as the leader of a retail brand, but this is precisely what made Philip Mountford, the current CEO of Hunkemöller, an interesting guest speaker for the IADS 63rd General Assembly in London last November.


Philip Mountford's career in fashion retail spans significant roles across Europe and the UK. He started at Simpson Piccadilly as a purchasing director, then advanced to senior positions in renowned companies. As CEO of Moss Bros Group PLC, he led a major menswear retailer with an extensive store network and franchise partnerships with brands like Hugo Boss and Canali. He also held the Managing Director role at Gianni Versace, focusing on regions including the UK, Ireland, and Scandinavia, and had pivotal roles at Nautica and Daks PLC. Most notably, as CEO of Hunkemöller, Europe's largest lingerie brand, he grew the business to an €800 million valuation, with e-commerce driving 40% of sales. Mountford is set to leave Hunkemöller in early 2024 after a transformative 15-year tenure. Before stepping down, he was able to address IADS CEOs and answer their burning questions with candid and open responses.


IADS Exclusive: Paris' Champs-Elysées and the Olympics


IADS provides its members with a weekly in-depth analysis on retail-oriented topics.


*IADS Exclusives are for members only. You can subscribe to our Substack to recieve our weekly exclusives here.*



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IADS Exclusive: Paris' Champs-Elysées, luxury, sportswear and the Olympics, a case for opportunistic retail

Christine Montard
July 22, 2024
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IADS Exclusive: Paris' Champs-Elysées, luxury, sportswear and the Olympics, a case for opportunistic retail

Christine Montard
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July 22, 2024

*Paris' Champs-Élysées have a rich history. Originally designed in 1667 by Le Nôtre, the famous French architect created a long tree-lined promenade starting from the Tuileries Palace. In the 20th century, the avenue experienced spectacular growth with the arrival of major stores, cinemas, and famous cafés such as Fouquet's. These establishments attracted an international clientele, earning the Champs-Élysées the reputation of "the most beautiful avenue in the world" where something was always happening. Luxury brands opened stores, transforming the avenue into a high-end shopping area./nbsp]

However, starting in the 1980s, the avenue began to experience a period of decline, luxury brands gradually gave way to more mainstream stores such as McDonald's, Zara and H&M, leading to a gradual dissatisfaction among Parisians. Between 1990 and the 2000s, many shopping arcades, once the pride of the Champs-Élysées, were deserted. The avenue lost its lustre, failing to attract the sophisticated clientele it once did. Allowing easy access from the suburbs, the opening of the regional train also changed the avenue's visitor profile, reinforcing its mass consumption image. More recently, the avenue faced years of "yellow jackets" protests, strikes and the pandemic, which drove away potential customers.

But the renewed appeal of the most famous avenue in the world is confirmed: there is a Champs-Elysées Renaissance.

Welcoming 300,000 pedestrians on busy days, the avenue is transforming into a prime showcase for brands. As measured by Knight Frank, the avenue recorded 46 brand movements in 2022 and 2023, especially in the sports and luxury sectors: 46% were new store openings, and 54% were relocations, expansions, or renovations. The movements recorded over the past 2 years involved 24% luxury brands and 17% sportswear brands.

Who will win the attention of tourists coming to the Olympics? Considering their investments, luxury and sport-style brands seem best positioned. Moreover, in the long run, who will win the 110 million people passing through the Champs-Élysées each year? Will the Olympics bring additional business?*


IADS Exclusive: Paris' Champs-Elysées and the Olympics


IADS provides its members with a weekly in-depth analysis on retail-oriented topics.


*IADS Exclusives are for members only. You can subscribe to our Substack to recieve our weekly exclusives here.*



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IADS Exclusive: What to ask ourselves when considering the Saks / Neiman Marcus merger?

Selvane Mohandas du Ménil
July 15, 2024
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IADS Exclusive: What to ask ourselves when considering the Saks / Neiman Marcus merger?

Selvane Mohandas du Ménil
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July 15, 2024

In early July, Hudson's Bay Company, the parent company of Saks Fifth Avenue, announced a plan to acquire Neiman Marcus for $2,65 billion. This intention seems logical in a crowded market that calls for more consolidation.


Given the radical difference between the two companies, this would have already raised some eyebrows if the news had been limited to Neiman Marcus and Saks Fifth Avenue merging. However, conversations revolved instead around Amazon and Salesforce being involved in this deal.


While the merger is under review by the Federal Trade Commission, and therefore, everything is still being determined, this planned merger raises many questions when considering the context. While the IADS does not pretend to have a crystal ball, this Exclusive aims to review everything at stake and assess the challenges and opportunities the plan opens


IADS Exclusive: What to ask ourselves, when considering the Saks / Neiman Marcus merger?


IADS provides its members with a weekly in-depth analysis on retail-oriented topics.


*IADS Exclusives are for members only. You can subscribe to our Substack to recieve our weekly exclusives here.*



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IADS Exclusive: K11 and The Hyundai demonstrate that reinventing the retail experience is not enough, as proper communication is crucial

Selvane Mohandas du Ménil
July 8, 2024
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IADS Exclusive: K11 and The Hyundai demonstrate that reinventing the retail experience is not enough, as proper communication is crucial

Selvane Mohandas du Ménil
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July 8, 2024

*Day after day, retail analysts remind us that the in-store shopping experience needs to be reinvented to appeal to the younger, tech-savvy generations and lure them into brick-and-mortar stores. Indeed, innovative projects are sprouting worldwide, each pushing the boundaries of what a retail space represents by introducing fresh and novel concepts.

However, creating a compelling physical retail experience is merely half the battle. Many endeavours have tried and failed, not due to a lack of ingenuity but simply because their ability to communicate and highlight their inventiveness effectively was lacking. In the US, customers struggled to appreciate Showfields beyond the much-touted slide fully. Pioneering concepts like b8ta in Manhattan (now closed) or WOW in Madrid presented too many ideas simultaneously, making it arduous to convey their essence engagingly to customers.

Let's examine two prominent large-scale projects that have successfully reinvented the retail experience in recent years: K11 Musea in Hong Kong and The Hyundai in Seoul. Both aimed to revolutionize shopping for younger generations, but how did they manage to articulate and bring to life their innovative concepts effectively*


IADS Exclusive: K11 and The Hyundai demonstrate that reinventing the retail experience is not enough


IADS provides its members with a weekly in-depth analysis on retail-oriented topics.


*IADS Exclusives are for members only. You can subscribe to our Substack to recieve our weekly exclusives here.*



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IADS Exclusive - JD Sports' new flagship store on Paris' Champs-Elysées Avenue: how to make a difference in a crowded area?

July 1, 2024
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IADS Exclusive - JD Sports' new flagship store on Paris' Champs-Elysées Avenue: how to make a difference in a crowded area?

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July 1, 2024

In the last few months, brands have been rushing to open stores on Avenue des Champs-Elysées, hoping to catch a chunk of tourist wallets, especially the ones coming for the 2024 Olympics. Sports brands are no exception and tend to settle in retail spaces in the avenue's central and lower sections. England-based retailer JD Sports chose another option and opened its new global flagship store in the avenue's upper section (number 118), across the street from the Louis Vuitton flagship store and not far away from Saint Laurent and Cartier. While the store was opened by Brazilian soccer legend and Nike brand ambassador Ronaldinho in April 2024, the group said it will be "continuing its run as the globally recognised king of the high street. JD's new store offers the brand's latest innovations in digital technology and merchandising and will provide visitors access to all the hottest brands and latest launches."


JD Sports was founded in 1981 in Bury, in the North West of England, with one shop, John David Sports. The JD group now accounts for more than 3,300 stores worldwide, including 100 in France and 29 JD Sports stores in the Paris region only. In terms of sales, JD Sports claimed in March 2024 to outperform a challenging market with a 4% like-for-like sales growth in the financial year ending 3 February 2024, reaching £10.5 billion, with an 8% organic growth. The profit before tax is expected to reach £915 million.


The retailer's new flagship store aims to provide an immersive shopping experience to customers and establish itself as one of the sports champions on Champs-Elysées. Who will be the customers visiting the store? What will they find there to differentiate themselves in the crowded area?


IADS Exclusive - JD Sports' new flagship store on Paris' Champs-Elysées Avenue


IADS provides its members with a weekly in-depth analysis on retail-oriented topics.


*IADS Exclusives are for members only. You can subscribe to our Substack to recieve our weekly exclusives here.*



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IADS Exclusive - Dover Street Market Paris: the rebirth of independent fashion?

June 17, 2024
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IADS Exclusive - Dover Street Market Paris: the rebirth of independent fashion?

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June 17, 2024

After years of speculation, Dover Street Market, the renowned fashion concept store founded by Rei Kawakubo of Comme des Garçons and husband Adrian Joffe, finally opened a new location in Paris. Located in the Marais area, the new store is the 7th location to open over the last 20 years after Tokyo, London, Beijing, New York, Los Angeles and Singapore (not to mention Dover Street Market Parfums opened in Paris in October 2019). Kawakubo and Joffe After took over the building in 2019, but soon after, they decided to wait until the pandemic was over and tourism normalised to open the store. From 2021 to 2023, the gorgeous 17th-century Hôtel de Coulanges (once the house of French writer Madame de Sevigné) temporarily housed a non-profit cultural hub ("le 35-37", after the street number the building is located at) hosting art exhibitions, fashion shows, temporary fashion markets and art performances. All these events supported the anticipation and excitement around the space opening and secured a break on taxes and rent. After this long delay, the much-anticipated store finally opened to consumers on Friday, 24 May 2024. What can one expect from this latest Dover Street Market family addition? Paris is seen as the fashion capital, but will the store succeed in the long run?


IADS Exclusive - Dover Street Market Paris: the rebirth of independent fashion?


IADS provides its members with a weekly in-depth analysis on retail-oriented topics.


*IADS Exclusives are for members only. You can subscribe to our Substack to recieve our weekly exclusives here.*



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IADS Exclusive - At VivaTechnology 2024, AI starts to be used in concrete and exciting use cases for retailers

Elisabetta Falco Beccalli
June 17, 2024
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IADS Exclusive - At VivaTechnology 2024, AI starts to be used in concrete and exciting use cases for retailers

Elisabetta Falco Beccalli
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June 17, 2024

The IADS was thrilled to attend the 2024 Viva Technology conference last May in Paris, eagerly seeking out key trends and exciting startups that could bring value to our members. VivaTech 2024 broke new ground with record-breaking attendance of 165,000 visitors, a 10% increase over last year. The event buzzed with energy, attracting 13,500 startups from over 25 business sectors and over 2,000 investors. One hundred twenty countries were represented, solidifying VivaTech's central position on the global tech panorama.


At VivaTech 2024, the interaction between startups and tech champions highlighted a significant trend in the tech industry. The event not only emphasised established tech companies' dominance but also showcased the boundless innovative potential of startups.


Key themes included artificial intelligence, retail, climate technology, and mobility solutions. Despite the prominence of major corporations, the event still celebrated start-ups. VivaTech 2024 facilitated connections between startups, investors, and corporate partners, promoting an ecosystem where emerging companies could flourish alongside tech champions. This balance indicates that while tech champions are undeniably powerful, the startup dream is far from over. Startups continue to be essential drivers of innovations, especially in niche markets and emerging technology sectors. Our non-exhaustive review below highlights the most relevant retail trends we spotted this year for our members.


IADS Exclusive - At VivaTechnology 2024, AI starts to be used in concrete and exciting use cases for retailers


IADS provides its members with a weekly in-depth analysis on retail-oriented topics.


*IADS Exclusives are for members only. You can subscribe to our Substack to recieve our weekly exclusives here.*



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IADS Exclusive - Boyner: when a retailer differentiates differently

Selvane Mohandas du Menil
June 3, 2024
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IADS Exclusive - Boyner: when a retailer differentiates differently

Selvane Mohandas du Menil
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June 3, 2024

Brand differentiation through a strong and relevant positioning is commonplace. The leading brands are built-in with clear added value and customer promise, meaning that the best-in-class are often pre-empting a whole category in the minds of customers. For example, Louis Vuitton is linked to "the art of travel" (a phrase which encapsulates its origins as a trunk manufacturer, its positioning as a luxury brand, and connotes an idea of freedom of movement), Nike relates to sports and performance, and Emirates Airline with the notion of travelling in style. This is true as well for branded retailers: Apple's appeal is all about uncompromising quality high-tech lifestyle, Zara about high fashion at affordable prices, and The Gap about quality apparel at the right price.


For brands and branded retailers, such differentiation in the minds of customers is achieved through heavy marketing investments, allowing them to establish a clear positioning which is at the core of their business.


Third-party retailers, such as department stores, are in a different position, especially for the larger ones. For a long time, they were seen by both businesses and customers as "houses of brands" and, as such, able to talk to anyone, proposing "everything under the same roof" (JCPenney was promising in 2006 "It's all inside. For all the sides of you", and well before that, Harrods' motto was "all things for all people, everywhere" in Latin). For that reason, they were positioning themselves as being a crossroads (in Paris, well-known slogans like "everything can be found at La Samaritaine" and "there is always something going on at Le Bon Marché"), places of constant discovery (Manor's slogan is "Special Everyday", Isetan Shinjuku's promise in the 1960s was "everyday is new. Isetan is for fashion"), or pre-empted the authoritative position of being the leading fashion destination (Harvey Nichols slogan in the 1950s was "London's leading fashion house", Peek & Cloppenburg was "House of Fashion" in 2000, and Dillard's "the style of your life" in 2009). The notion of price was also important: in 2001 Arnotts was promising to be "the heart of style and value" while John Lewis has long committed to "never knowingly undersell".


However, a brand promise based on being the place to be, at the edge of fashion, or at the best price, is quite difficult to sustain in the digital age when the Internet precisely allows the creation of massive digital marketplaces, giving access to the most obscure fashion in a millisecond, and always with the possibility to compare prices with retailers across the planet.


Some department stores have resisted thanks to their historical advantage: Harrods or KaDeWe's reputation about luxury is universal (KaDeWe's slogan in 2004 was "the fine art of first-class shopping") while Galeries Lafayette is recognized as a place where fashion is much more than a mere promise, by giving access to every trend from across the planet.


But what happens when the goal is to pre-empt a new market, far from the historical moneymakers that luxury, fashion, cosmetics, or home categories have represented for department stores?


Last September, for the first time, IADS member Boyner, in Turkey, hostedtheir "Boyner Dynamic" event: 3 days of outdoor activities and gatherings to establish Boyner as the leading lifestyle destination in the country. The catch? Nothing was to be sold. It was all about gathering people together and animating a community. Let's review it.


IADS Exclusive - Boyner: when a retailer differentiates differently


IADS provides its members with a weekly in-depth analysis on retail-oriented topics.


*IADS Exclusives are for members only. You can subscribe to our Substack to recieve our weekly exclusives here.*



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IADS Exclusive - Brand Roundup: Cosmetics, Beauty & Wellness 2024

Christine Montard
May 29, 2024
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IADS Exclusive - Brand Roundup: Cosmetics, Beauty & Wellness 2024

Christine Montard
|
May 29, 2024

IADS recently held a meeting on the Cosmetics & Beauty sector. Based on market research, NellyRodi and The Style Pulse presented the most innovative brands from different segments in cosmetics and beauty including skincare, makeup, haircare, fragrances, and more.


Check out our selection of these brands and the pictures by clicking the button below!


IADS Exclusive - Brand Roundup: Cosmetics, Beauty & Wellness 2024


IADS provides its members with a weekly in-depth analysis on retail-oriented topics.


*IADS Exclusives are for members only. You can subscribe to our Substack to recieve our weekly exclusives here.*



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IADS Exclusive - When department stores morph to escape copycats

Christine Montard
May 20, 2024
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IADS Exclusive - When department stores morph to escape copycats

Christine Montard
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May 20, 2024

The future of department stores has become a topic that experts and media have expressed their views on many times, predicting the end of the model. While the so-called "retail apocalypse" didn't happen, the retail landscape is indeed changing with a long list of mid-range store chains collapsing everywhere in the world and department stores evolving their model. With COVID-19, they showed agility to reinvent themselves by developing online capabilities overnight, updating their product offer and including more experiences and services to differentiate from the competition.


However, the transformation is not over yet. We are seeing an increase in the number of department stores resembling malls, favouring luxury over the idea of a 'department store for all'. Conversely, branded retailers are increasingly resembling department stores. In that regard and following a premiumization strategy, Zara's most recent stores are taking cues from the department store playbook. Also, Marks & Spencer has emerged as a winner in the UK retail landscape.


Is that a natural evolution from both sides? Now that branded retailers are taking on the department stores' codes, what's in for department stores themselves? Are there any fundamental risks if they lose their factor of differentiation, or is it just a not-so-important question of display and presentation? Some department store companies have dropped the traditional way of presenting products by section and opted for a very immersive approach, becoming very large concept stores in the process. Is the future approach of department stores to merge customer journeys into innovative store concepts, to remain destinations for customers and differentiate from copycats who contribute to commodifying their once-typical approach?


IADS Exclusive - When department stores morph to escape copycats


IADS provides its members with a weekly in-depth analysis on retail-oriented topics.


*IADS Exclusives are for members only. You can subscribe to our Substack to recieve our weekly exclusives here.*



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IADS Exclusive - What retailers can learn from Taylor Swift's success

Christine Montard
May 13, 2024
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IADS Exclusive - What retailers can learn from Taylor Swift's success

Christine Montard
|
May 13, 2024

Have you heard about Taylor Swift, a singer with a global impact?


Last year, NYU announced a class based on her. In March and November 2023, Stanford and Harvard respectively announced they would do the same. Swift holds the record for most songs to ever chart on the US Billboard Hot 100 (188 songs), and in fall 2022 she became the first artist to own the entire Top 10 simultaneously. Finally, Taylor Swift's 2023 "Eras Tour" is the first tour to gross $1 billion, surpassing Elton John (the previous record holder with $939 million for his "Farewell Yellow Brick Road" tour).


In one way or another, Taylor Swift has amazed the world with her music, persona and business skills for over a decade. Sparked by this buzz, the IADS took a look at this phenomenon to figure out how exactly this popstar branded herself and her music and how she became a master in influence. Her highly engaged community of fans is interesting to look into to understand how emotion is a key factor in enhancing loyalty.


IADS Exclusive - What retailers can learn from Taylor Swift's success


IADS provides its members with a weekly in-depth analysis on retail-oriented topics.


*IADS Exclusives are for members only. You can subscribe to our Substack to recieve our weekly exclusives here.*



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IADS Exclusive - World Retail Congress 2024 Conference Report

Selvane Mohandas du Ménil
April 30, 2024
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IADS Exclusive - World Retail Congress 2024 Conference Report

Selvane Mohandas du Ménil
|
April 30, 2024

The IADS attended the 2024 edition of the World Retail Congress, held in Paris from April 16th to 18th, which gathered 850 participants from 400 companies across 16 countries. During this edition, the Association had the privilege to moderate a roundtable between the CEO of Galeries Lafayette, Nicolas Houzé, and the CEO of Harrods, Michael Ward.


This report is a selection of the most relevant insights gathered for our members.


Table of contents


**1- Introduction: the difficult task of forecasting in 2024 (Deloitte, Blackstone, VML)

2- But what is retail anyway? A fresh perspective (Springstudios)

3- How to win the new generation customers (Claire's, MARS Wrigley, Pepe Jeans)…

4- …in a time of mass distraction (Adidas)?

5- What to expect from AI in retail? (Keystone, Decathlon, Google Cloud)

6- The human factor: purpose, planet, profits… and communities (ThredUp, REI, Milani Cosmetics)

7- A look at 3 retailers set in motion: Sephora, Printemps, Myer

8- The future of department stores: the IADS interviews Harrods and Galeries Lafayette

9- Interesting Quotes**


IADS Exclusive - World Retail Congress 2024 Conference Report


IADS provides its members with a weekly in-depth analysis on retail-oriented topics.


*IADS Exclusives are for members only. You can subscribe to our Substack to recieve our weekly exclusives here.*



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IADS Exclusive - Building a corporate sustainability playbook

Mary Jane Shea
April 22, 2024
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IADS Exclusive - Building a corporate sustainability playbook

Mary Jane Shea
|
April 22, 2024

The IADS recently attended a webinar hosted by Bain & Company covering the topic of 'Monetizing sustainability – Navigating ESG pricing' where the relationship between profit and sustainability was discussed. As we have covered in our previous IADS Exclusive on how retailers can turn sustainability regulations into opportunities, sustainability directives are here to stay and will only become stricter, but this should not stop retailers from finding ways to make such changes a win-win situation. In the same vein, the IADS also recently studied the key takeaways from Adam Werbach's book 'Strategy for Sustainability' which explores how businesses can integrate sustainability principles into their strategies to create long-term value. Building on the principles and ideas discussed by Bain & Company and in the book by Werbach, we explore some of these ways to build a positive and profitable groundwork for retail businesses while keeping sustainability topics at the heart of the company, which in these days, is key to survival.


IADS Exclusive - Building a corporate sustainability playbook


IADS provides its members with a weekly in-depth analysis on retail-oriented topics.


*IADS Exclusives are for members only. You can subscribe to our Substack to recieve our weekly exclusives here.*



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IADS Exclusive - Beyond simplification: how to digitally transform a business in 120 days

Selvane Mohandas du Ménil
April 15, 2024
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IADS Exclusive - Beyond simplification: how to digitally transform a business in 120 days

Selvane Mohandas du Ménil
|
April 15, 2024

The IADS attended the Global Peter Drucker Forum, an annual event organized in Vienna, Austria, last December. This event is an international management conference dedicated to the management philosophy of Peter Drucker, a management professor, writer, and consultant, often referred to as a "management guru". The conferences held during the Forum aimed at making a reconciliation between pure research (systematically based on Peter Drucker's findings) and practice, by having on-stage academics and executives.


While the whole session was dedicated to exploring the notion of "creative resilience" in an age of discontinuity, two specific talks raised our attention, as they challenged some notions that are taken for granted in business :


  • Simplify to win,
  • Plan a transformation process,
  • Have the appropriate individuals carry this process.


What if the simplification process has become a poison for businesses in a world where uncertainty is everywhere and every day, at every level? What if the business transformation was not a process, but a never-ending moment, because its true nature is more psychological than measurable in actions? Finally, what if CEOs could not count on dedicated individuals to carry out a digital transformation process due to its very evanescent nature?


While we already reviewed these notions in our 2022 White Paper, "Smarter department store organizations", by especially wondering if the structure had always followed strategy in the past for department stores, these two conferences gave an interesting angle that comes as an ideal complement to the conclusions we made at that time.


IADS Exclusive - Beyond simplification: how to digitally transform a business in 120 days


IADS provides its members with a weekly in-depth analysis on retail-oriented topics.


*IADS Exclusives are for members only. You can subscribe to our Substack to recieve our weekly exclusives here.*



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IADS Exclusive - Coca-Cola's refreshing retail strategies for navigating Europe's diverse market

Mary Jane Shea
April 8, 2024
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IADS Exclusive - Coca-Cola's refreshing retail strategies for navigating Europe's diverse market

Mary Jane Shea
|
April 8, 2024

In 2023, despite a promising start to the year, IADS members experienced a significant turning point in the retail market following the summer. This shift was further exacerbated by terrorist attacks in Israel in October 2023, leading to global economic concerns, particularly regarding inflation and growth in 2024. These apprehensions were evident during the IADS General Assembly in November, prompting IADS to invite The Coca-Cola Company to share their insights with IADS CEOs for 2024 and the FMCG (Fast Moving Consumer Goods) market.


The presentation was delivered by Nikos Koumettis, President of the Europe Operating Unit at Coca-Cola, and Rami Sabanegh, Vice President of Strategy at Coca-Cola Europe. Nikos Koumettis began his career in Marketing and Sales, working for Kraft Jacobs Suchard, Elgeka and Papastratos/Phillip Morris, and joined Coca-Cola in 2001 as General Manager for Greece and Cyprus. Since then, he has built a wealth of experience in several international roles. Similarly, Rami Sabanegh has an impressive list of credentials and uses his extensive knowledge of management consulting as a member of Coca-Cola's European leadership team, where he leads business analysis, strategy, insights and strategic transformation for 40 countries. Together, they shared their expertise on the European customer landscape, macroeconomic factors, sustainability, technological shifts and their company's extensive reach, serving 500 million customers across a wide product range.


IADS Exclusive - Coca-Cola's refreshing retail strategies for navigating Europe's diverse market


IADS provides its members with a weekly in-depth analysis on retail-oriented topics.


*IADS Exclusives are for members only. You can subscribe to our Substack to recieve our weekly exclusives here.*