Shein: who is Xu Yangtian?

News
 |  
Nov 2025
 |  
Financial Times
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What: Shein’s move from online-only to a physical presence in a major Parisian department store highlights the risks and complexities facing digital-native brands in Western markets.

Why it is important: Shein’s challenges illustrate the importance of local adaptation, transparency, and stakeholder engagement for global brands seeking to bridge digital and physical retail.

Shein’s attempt to establish a permanent boutique in a prominent Paris department store was intended as a milestone in its global expansion, but instead has exposed the brand to intense regulatory, operational, and reputational challenges. The initiative triggered protests, government scrutiny, and calls for a ban, as well as backlash over controversial third-party products and compliance with European laws. These events underscore the difficulties digital-native brands face when transitioning to physical retail in established Western markets, where public sentiment, regulatory frameworks, and local partnerships play a critical role. Shein’s reliance on customs loopholes, ultra-fast fashion algorithms, and marketplace diversification has come under fire from both authorities and the public, leading to fines, temporary suspensions, and delays in its IPO plans. The episode highlights the need for global brands to prioritize transparency, adapt to local expectations, and engage proactively with stakeholders to navigate the complexities of cross-border retail expansion.

IADS Notes: Shein’s attempt to establish a permanent physical presence in Parisian department stores, notably BHV Marais, marks a pivotal moment in the brand’s global expansion strategy but has triggered intense regulatory, operational, and reputational challenges. As detailed by Fashion Network (October 2025), Shein’s move aligns with SGM’s broader transformation of department stores and leverages the brand’s strong online penetration in France, where it counts 23 million customers. However, this expansion has been met with fierce opposition from French brands, unions, and authorities, leading to staff protests, the withdrawal of local labels, and Galeries Lafayette’s decision to block Shein’s entry into SGM-affiliated stores (Inside Retail, October 2025). The controversy has been compounded by a €40 million fine for deceptive pricing (Fashion Network, July 2025), the temporary suspension of Shein’s marketplace in France (Le Monde, November 2025), and new EU customs and platform liability reforms (Inside Retail, July 2025; Financial Times, February 2025). The brand’s marketplace diversification has exposed it to further reputational risk, as seen in the recent scandal over prohibited products and the expulsion of partners like Pimkie from industry associations (Inside Retail, November 2025). Meanwhile, Shein faces mounting pressure from both Chinese authorities—who are resisting supply chain diversification (Inside Retail, April 2025)—and Western regulators, forcing the company to delay its IPO and slash its valuation to $50 billion (Reuters, February 2025; Inside Retail, February 2025). These developments underscore the complex interplay of innovation, compliance, and public perception as digital-first brands navigate the evolving landscape of global retail.

Shein: who is Xu Yangtian?